We have tasted a wide range of the top echelons of red Bordeaux from 2018, the latest vintage released from the big chateaux. 2018 is an acclaimed vintage, but challenging weather meant the producers had to work hard for it. But in the end, the wines turned out very well. Many of the wines we tasted are already enjoyable, but of course, you can keep them for long if you want. And some of them need a few years to soften the edges. Here’s our selection of the best among those we tasted.
What exactly is a good vintage? In Bordeaux, a good vintage has traditionally equalled a vintage with good ageing potential. Some (very few) Bordeaux wines are investment wines, which is one reason why Bordeaux has always been vintage-focused. But even those who buy to eventually drink the wines themselves are often anxious to buy “good” vintages. But, in reality, any vintage from Bordeaux is well worth drinking, albeit different in character.
This is a longer version of an article published on Forbes.com.
Good and bad?
Bordeaux has, on the whole, a good climate for wine. It’s not too hot and not too cold. However, it is an Atlantic climate, and there can be too much rain and periods of drought, and there is no guarantee of sunshine in the summer. All this means that the vintages vary in style.
But the differences are less marked now than they used to be. Today, the châteaux are better at making good wines in “bad” years. This is to a great extent because they have better clones, better technology, and better possibilities to treat the vines against diseases.
One should not really talk about “bad” years. The opposite of a “good” year is often a lighter year, a year that is “ready to drink” faster than a good year. Such years are as pleasant as the years with long ageing potential, just different. In addition, they are less expensive, a significant advantage, not least for restaurants.
The vintage 2018
2018 had lots of rain in the spring and early summer. It caused severe mildiou attacks hardly ever seen before (until this year, 2021, when it hit severely again). But the warm and dry weather arrived in August and continued in September and even in October. The grapes recovered and ripened properly. Some producers, but far from all, lost volume.
The resulting wines have a lovely concentration and the backbone that Bordeaux is known for, but with a certain softness. Many of the wines we tasted were already well balanced. Delicious to drink already today. Some were too marked by their oak ageing, and these need more time.
Our top selection of bordeaux 2018
Here are our favourites from the tasting in Paris, organised by the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (not all members of the association were present for the tasting).
Two things to keep in mind:
- Although many of the wines on our list are very famous and very expensive, there are several châteaux that are not very high-priced at all, and that can represent outstanding value. Look closely and you will find some bargains.
- This was a very extensive tasting organised by the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGC). But it did not include all top-quality Bordeaux wines. There are many more out there to look for.
(*=a special favourite)
Pessac-Léognan
Château Bouscaut *, tight tannins, typical Bordeaux aromas with cedarwood and roasted coffee from the oak. Well-balanced.
Château Carbonnieux, currently a bit too marked by the oak, slightly smoky at the end, let it rest for a few years
Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion *, smooth and aromatic, floral, elegant style
Domaine de Chevalier, lots of fruit and good intensity, soft tannins
Château Fieuzal, full-bodied, toasted oak aromas, classic Bordeaux style
Château de France *, round, some softness, good intensity and balance, elegant
Château Larrivet Haut-Brion *, fairly light, easy to enjoy already, aromatic, black currants, long finish
Château Latour-Martillac *, powerful, tannins that are well integrated, balanced
Château Olivier *, intense aromas, refreshing fruit, very pleasant
Saint Emilion
Château Canon, tight tannins, aromas black currants, complex and elegant
Château Dassault *, generous fruit, marked tannins, concentration
Château Franc Mayne *, excellent, classic style with a good length, aromas of black currants and a good concentration
Château Larcis-Ducasse *, generous fruit, red berry aromas, already drinkable with a good balance
Château Pavie-Macquin, refreshing fruit, complex aromas, good tannin structure
Château Trotte Vieille, ripe fruit, good aroma intensity, classic style
Château Valandraud *, young and austere with pronounced tannins but also generous fruit
Moulis-en-Médoc
Château Chasse-Spleen *, intense dark fruit, can be enjoyed already although it doesn’t lack structure
Haut-Médoc
Château Cantemerle *, pleasant herbal notes, ripe fruit, complexity
Château Lamarque, elegant, balanced in a discreet classic style
Château La Tour Carnet *, aromas that open up in the glass, very generous fruit, good length
Margaux
Château Angludet *, full-bodied and fruity in an accessible but complex style
Château Desmirail, full-bodied, tight tannins, classic style with a touch of new oak aromas
Château Monbrison *, smooth and beautiful fruit with fresh acidity, a bit different with 80% cabernet franc
Château Rauzan-Gassies *, aromas of oak, roasted coffee, spices, balanced
Château Siran *, elegant in a classic Bordeaux style, already very drinkable, good balance
Saint Julien
Château Beychevelle *, concentration and intensity in aroma and taste, smooth and fresh finish
Château Branaire-Ducru, tight, restrained fruit
Château Gloria *, fresh and smooth, discreet oak
Château Langoa Barton *, excellent concentration, good balance and enjoyable already now, ripe, almost sweet berries
Château Léoville Barton *, tight tannins, expressive, complex and long taste
Château Léoville Poyferré, structured style with tannins but also generous fruit
Château Saint Pierre, black currants, good fruit and balance
Château Talbot *, tight tannins, powerful and rich wine, plenty of black fruit
Pauillac
Château d’Armailhac, floral, spicy, a bit different,
Château Clerc Milon, intense aromas, lots of tannin, some oak
Château Lynch Bages *, powerful wine with structure and refreshing fruit
Saint Estèphe
Château Cos Labory *, delicious, good acidity, austere but good balance
Château Phelan-Ségur, aromas a bit closed, well-structured with a generous fruit
Travel
The very best way to discover and explore the wines of Bordeaux is to travel there in person. You can come on a wine tour to Bordeaux and taste many magnificent chateau wines with BKWine.
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