It is far between the organic or biodynamic growers in Champagne, but if you look closely you will find a few. Champagne Fleury in Côte des Bars in the southern part of Champagne is one of them. They started “converting” their vineyards to ecologic farming already in 1989 and in 1992 the whole property became biodynamic. “It’s not a problem, even with our cold climate”, says Morzane Fleury, “you just have to be attentive all the time”.
Their Brut Sans Année is made from 100% pinot noir and feels classic and fresh. Fleury Fleur de l’Europe has good concentration and elegance. The vintage Fleury 2000 is very good, classic, dry and mineral, with quite a lot of refreshing acidity. If you like really dust-dry champagnes you should try their Extra Brut 1995: they blocked the malolactic fermentation and kept it 12 year before disgorging.
