Creativity trumps origin? | New Brief #275

There is no shortage of hard‑to‑grasp expressions in the world of wine. One of them is that “a wine expresses its origin.” We see it everywhere. Advertisers use it, and so do wine producers, wine enthusiasts, sommeliers — everyone involved. It’s what wine consumers want to hear today. It sounds good, down‑to‑earth, authentic.

But everyone knows how difficult it is to identify, blind, where a wine comes from. The expression is vague, elusive. Perhaps only the producers themselves understand it. Everyone else who says that “the wine tastes of its origin” probably already knows where the wine comes from.

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A wine’s origin can be broad and wide. The broadest category in France is vin de france, which in 2009 replaced vin de table. Vin de france is currently a big success on the export market, 66% of this category is exported. And one must admit that vin de france sounds much nicer than vin de table. In the old days, these wines were almost entirely cheap, simple wines. It was forbidden to put the vintage or grape variety on the label. Today, that is no longer the case. Instead, “with creativity in tune with the times, the designation vin de France is establishing itself as a platform for expressing new wine trends,” says the umbrella organisation for its producers, Anivin de France.

For a vin de france, the origin is simply France; nothing more specific may be stated. That is the nature of the category. The wine comes from France. It is, however, mandatory to include “the identity and address of the producer or bottler” on the label, but this says nothing about where the grapes were grown. Other than somewhere in France. Sometimes you can guess, but you can never be certain, and it is not uncommon for producers to try to circumvent the rule. But if you have chosen to stand outside the system of controlled origins, IGP and AOP/AOC, perhaps you should refrain from making claims about origin?

So, vin de france cannot be sold based on origin. But since grape variety may be put on the label (as well as vintage), producers can instead attract wine enthusiasts with unusual grapes, such as the fungus resistant varieties souvignier gris or floréal, or something as exotic for France as pinotage, touriga nacional, or zinfandel. Or why not a 100% chardonnay from Médoc? At least one château is preparing to launch such a wine. Though, of course, they are not allowed to state that it comes from Médoc. (In many ways, it is reasonable to forbid this; the entire European wine system is built on following rules for origin, grapes, and methods. You can’t have your cake and eat it too.)

Pét‑nat, natural wines, juicy pale reds, orange wines, and low‑alcohol wines are all popular among vin de france producers. A playful, quirky label, far from the traditional, appeals to those who think wine is old‑fashioned. In other words, among vin de france producers you find a delightful mix of the wild and unconventional who don’t fit into the usual frameworks, and producers who feel that appellation rules no longer keep up with the times.

Sure, the guessing game gets harder if you buy a vin de france, especially if the winemaker has blended grapes from all over France (yes, that is allowed). But what does it matter if you get a bit of creativity in return? And a good wine.

Besides, a wine’s origin doesn’t disappear just because it can’t be written on the label. And perhaps, in the end, it is more important who made it.

Wine tours

We have three tours that we particularly want to bring to your attention: Bordeaux, Burgundy-Champagne, and New Zealand.

If you can’t come this time, maybe you can tell a friend who might want to join us on one of our upcoming tours.

Bordeaux luxury wine and gastronomy

13-19 September

Drawing on decades of experience (since 1986 actually), this Bordeaux tour takes you to private lunches and tastings and insider access at world-famous châteaux as well as family-run estates across the Médoc, Saint-Émilion, and Sauternes. A very special Bordeaux experience. More info and book here: Bordeaux, September 13-19, 2026

The Burgundy & Champagne Grand Tour

September 23 – October 1

This nine-day Grand Tour to Burgundy and Champagne pairs private visits to famous terroirs with intimate meetings with passionate Burgundy winemakers and outstanding grower-champagne producers. The wine is about the people behind it! Exclusive, private, gastronomic. Very enjoyable. More info here: Burgundy and Champagne, September 23 – October 1, 2026

New Zealand

The extraordinary adventure in one of the youngest wine countries,

March 10-25, 2027

A total road-trip, gastronomic, vinous adventure across breathtaking landscapes, blending meetings with the pioneers of the country’s wine industry, private wine tastings of international top-level sauvignon, pinot, cabernet and much more. And immersive cultural experiences, a private dinner with a Māori family to a stunning glacial lake excursion and tea with the Doonan family. All together with Britt and Per of BKWine. More info and book here: New Zealand, 10-25 March 2027

And also in winter (only a few places remaining):

• Chile-Argentina, in January 2027
• South Africa, in February 2027

They are already starting to fill up, so contact us now if you are interested!

More info on our wine tours here. “World’s Top Wine Tours“. Tours led by the people who know wine and who have an unrivalled experience of wine and wine tours.

Travel in wine regions with someone you trust.

Enjoy the Brief!

Britt & Per

Wine editors to the national encyclopedia, Forbes.com contributors, award-winning wine book authors, wine tour advisors to the UN and national wine organisations, wine judges … and, above all, passionate wine travellers.

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