Madeira redefines itself with bone-dry, characterful wines that earn global curiosity

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Dry, non-fortified wines from Madeira? It used to be very niche just a few years ago, but these characterful wines are now getting more attention. They even have their own appellation, DOP Madeirense. Most of these dry wines stay on the islands – there are plenty of tourists to drink them – but wine bars, wine shops and restaurants around the world are noticing these wines and making efforts to get hold of them.

I tasted some magnificent wines last week at the Island Wine Summit 2026 in Tenerife (more about that in the coming Briefs).

Among them was a DOP Madeirense from winemaker Antonio Macanita at Companhia dos Profetas. The grapes come from Porto Santo, geologically one of the oldest islands in the Madeira archipelago and one swept by strong Atlantic winds.

The grape is caracol, a very rare but traditional varietal on the Porto Santo. It could be related to palomino fino, the grape in Jerez. It is a bone-dry wine, with vibrant fruit, salinity, fine acidity, and some citrus. Simply delicious.

Vineyards and houses on a slope on a mountain in Madeira
Vineyards and houses on a slope on a mountain in Madeira, copyright BKWine Photography

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