Winds of change are blowing in Bordeaux, modern wine styles

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Bordeaux is the stronghold of structured, age-worthy red wine. Without intending to stop producing this type of wine that many chateaux do so well, Bordeaux today realises that some changes are needed. Bordeaux has lost 20% of its vineyard area since 2021, and plans are to tear up more of it. For some producers, it is no longer profitable to produce wine.

Some of these changes were recently presented by Bernard Farges, president of the Conseil Interprofessionnel du Vin de Bordeaux (CIVB). The important thing today, he says, is to try to attract new consumers. He believes that Bordeaux must recreate a sense of surprise and go beyond the stereotype of red Médoc wines as the only wine for formal meals.

Today, no one associates Bordeaux with dry white wines, which is unfortunate, as demand for white wines is increasing worldwide while demand for red wines is decreasing. But dry white wines are slowly gaining ground in Bordeaux. In 2025, they accounted for 13% of Bordeaux production, up from 9.3% in 2016. The Médoc Blanc appellation was created in 2025, with the first bottles expected to be sold by the end of April.

Others, such as Saint-Emilion, are also considering a white wine appellation, while producers in Sauternes are ready for a “dry” appellation, according to Bernard Farges.

Read more: larvf

Travel: Come on a wine tour to Bordeaux with BKWine. (PS: We’ve written a prize-winning book on Bordeaux and 12 other wine books.)

Coq'orico by Coquillas, a modern-style label from Chateau de France, Bordeaux
Coq'orico by Coquillas, a modern-style label from Chateau de France, Bordeaux, copyright BKWine Photography

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