“Adapt or perish” – the Winemaker’s Dilemma? | New Brief #262

No one can have missed that the buzzword in today’s wine industry is adaptation.

But that’s nothing new. Wine producers have always had to adapt to changing market conditions. Maybe just a bit more right now. They’re navigating declining wine consumption and erratic weather, complying with sustainability regulations, and producing affordable wines for cost-conscious customers, sometimes at price points so low they threaten profitability. And, of course, the wines must be made in a style that both importers and consumers are requesting.

Not least, producers must adjust to consumers’ changing tastes, especially relevant in these times of shrinking global wine consumption. But taste is hardly an exact science. It shifts with opinion polls. The trends we read about—predicted by some—can take years to materialise. Sometimes they never do. Sometimes they only reflect the preferences of a small group (such as wine writers) and would perhaps be better labelled as wishful thinking than actual trends.

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I recall, some 20–25 years ago, when French and Italian winemakers realised that the New World was conquering the world and that consumers loved those wines. Already at that time, Old World producers spoke of adapting to changing tastes—primarily through softer tannins, as well as riper, rounder wines. At the time, people adored the fuller-bodied, high-alcohol wines (as they then were) from places like Australia and Argentina. Today, the tune is much the same, just in reverse. Consumers now seem to have grown a bit weaker, craving, as before, lower tannins but also lower alcohol, paler colours, and juicier fruit.

Alcohol levels, in particular, spark strong feelings these days. We see it during our many tastings and on our tours. People appreciate wines at 11, 12, or 12.5% ABV—and shun anything higher. At times, it seems the number on the label matters more than the taste of what’s actually in the glass. And that can feel a bit unfair—to both the wine and the winemaker—when a bottle is dismissed based on a number rather than flavour.

Regulations don’t pose much of a barrier. It is rare for appellations to require alcohol levels above 12–12.5%. Tuscany’s new Gran Selezione stands out with a minimum of 13%. However, you must also consider factors such as grape ripeness, phenolic maturity, and other variables. The winemaker is looking for balance, not necessarily low alcohol. And we consumers want ripe, flavourful fruit, not raw, green acidity from grapes harvested too early. Are we ready to sacrifice “delicious” on the altar of a flimsy ideal called “low alcohol”?

If you want to go even lower in alcohol, you can — at your own risk — opt for fully or partially de-alcoholised wines. The European Commission’s new proposed terminology for these “wines” is, predictably, “alcohol-free wine” for anything up to 0.5% ABV, and — more unexpectedly — “alcohol-light” for wines with over 0.5% alcohol and that are at least 30% below the minimum allowed alcohol level for that wine category. For example, a Vin de France, which is a wine with no geographical indication, typically requires a minimum alcohol content of 9%. If dealcoholised by 30%, the result clocks in just above 6% ABV. At Sweden’s Systembolaget, the monopoly stores (remember, we’re Swedish, so humour this reference), the cut-off for low-alcohol wines today is 5.5%, and such wines are labelled “lower alcohol”. A small, but significant distinction. The term alcohol-light feels far too frivolous for Systembolaget’s sensibilities.

Today’s consumers also want to ditch the oak, which goes hand in hand with a taste for lighter red wine styles. Producers are following suit, whether adapting to demand or simply shifting personal preference. Still, oak remains a deeply embedded part of the winemaking process and will not be disappearing anytime soon. What’s changing is the use of new oak.

Using new oak — that is, replacing barrels every year, fully or partially — is actually a fairly recent phenomenon. This trend gained momentum in Bordeaux in the 1980s and 1990s (as well as in Brunello, Barolo, Chianti, and beyond) and has since spread across the wine world. Before that, barrels were reused for decades (as some still do), and the oak influence was far more subtle. New oak adds aroma, effectively aromatising the wine. Oak is, in fact, virtually the only officially permitted direct flavouring agent in winemaking.

It is rare for regulations to require the use of oak at all. Take Pauillac, for instance — home to many of Bordeaux’s top wines, often made with generous amounts of new oak. The only requirement is that wines must be aged until at least June 1st of the year following harvest, but there is no rule specifying how or in what type of vessel.

The wine world is in constant flux. A slow flux. It never moves quickly. Which, all things considered, feels quite comforting — especially from the perspective of a summer hammock. Assuming, of course, the winemaker has time to relax there. If the weather gods permit it. And if the harvest does not start too early. And if…

A few words on the upcoming tours:

Burgundy and Rhone Valley wine tour

The Burgundy and Rhone Valley wine tour is fully booked this year. Why not come to Bordeaux instead?:

Exclusive Bordeaux Tour

We still have a few places available on our exceptional Bordeaux tour in October.

What would one have on a Bordeaux wine tour “bucket list”? To taste the five First Growths plus Pétrus and Le Pin? That is of course possible. We would suggest something different, more special.

One can always buy expensive wines. Anywhere. But one cannot meet the people. And see the places. Come into the private chateaux. That’s what we’re giving you on our Bordeaux tour. Great wines, of course, but also meeting some very special people that will tell you their stories, exploring some vineyards that are not on the front page of Wine Spectator or Decanter (and, by the way, is where everyone else goes also).

Together with this you will get some outstanding gastronomic meals, private meals with – perhaps… – some very special wines from the cellar, brought up just for you.

The “First Growth bucket list tour” that I alluded to is like going to Paris and only see Notre Dame, Tour d’Argent and the Eiffel Tower while missing out on the food market, the neighbourhood bistro with the very special wine list, the private art collections, a walk along the Seine, and, above all, missing out on the Paris (and Bordeaux) atmosphere.

So, if you are a curious person, who wants to discover more about wine than just choosing the most expensive wine on the list, then this tour is for you. As a bonus, you’ll get beautiful chateaux and top level French cuisine.

Only a few places left, so book now!

Summer in Winter Time

All three winter wine tours will be back in 2026. We don’t promise summer, sun, and beach in the middle of northern winter, but we can without hesitation promise summer, sun, wine and gastronomy (and a little beach if you want).

• Chile-Argentina, January 12-25, 2026
• South Africa, February 15-25, 2026
• New Zealand, March 10-25, 2026

Book now! Only a limited number of places left.

See how it’s been this year in these three tour Facebook groups:

• Chile and Argentinas wine tour on Facebook
• South Africa wine tour on Facebook
• New Zealand wine tour on Facebook

Click Join and then choose how many notifications you want – everything, the most important, nothing.

More info on our wine tours here. “World’s Top Wine Tours“. Tours with the people who know wine and who have an unrivalled experience of wine and tours.

Travel in wine regions with someone you trust.

Enjoy the Brief!

Britt & Per

Wine editors to the national encyclopedia, Forbes.com contributors, award-winning wine book authors, wine tour advisors to the UN and national wine organisations, wine judges … and, above all, passionate wine travellers.

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