White wines from northern Burgundy in the Caviste online shop
A business run by the family for generations sounds almost everyday in a wine context. But pause for a moment and give a thought to what it really means. Exactly, a never-ending toil with the same patch of land and an unbroken chain of experience to carry on to the next one in line. Domaine Goisot is run by the eighth generation and is managed by Guilhem Goisot and his wife Marie. The domaine lives, develops and is refined through, among other things, a modern approach to wine. In the early 2000s they took a stand to leave completely (synthetic) pesticides and since 2007 they are organically and biodynamically certified. Geographically, the village of Saint-Bris-le-Vineux, where they are located, is just southwest of Chablis.
Caviste is an internet wine shop who offered Domaine Goisot to Swedish consumers for the first time in 2012. But you can also find their wines in other countries and they are certainly worth seeking out. This year’s launch is announced for October 4 at 2 pm and consists of three different white wines in a box with six bottles in total.
Aligoté 2017 Domaine Goisot, AOP Bourgogne Aligoté
100% aligoté, of which a large part from older vines and from various vineyard plots. “Old vines” is, of course, a relative concept, but here we are talking about vines of up to 85 years of age. The nose is young and with some touches of sweet notes of pears and flowers. On the palate, there is no sweet feeling, a good body, a refreshing acidity with some spice and a hint of yellow apples. Fresh and good finish. In the mouth, there is a slight spritz or fizziness, and I would love to let this rest until next summer. So do wait for a warm summer day and replace the standard rosé with something much more exciting.
Exogyra Virgula 2017 Domaine Goisot, AOP Saint-Bris
100% sauvignon blanc from limestone-like soils. On the nose, we are very far away from the New World sauvignon blancs. There’s yellow fruit and I felt golden sweet notes with some spice and minerals. Like the aligoté, it shows a slight prickliness on the tongue as if it were bottled last week. Soft yellow fruit, good grip, spicy, good acidity and an inspiring hint of bitterness. A personal reflection is that I probably had not guessed sauvignon blanc if I had tasted it blind. Extremely easy to enjoy. (Exogyra virgula is an extinct oyster species found as a fossil in the soil here. The shape is like a comma.)
Gondonne 2015 Chardonnay Domaine Goisot, Bourgogne Côtes d’Auxerre
100% chardonnay. Rich, lovely yellow fruit on the nose with a slight hint of dry hot fruit and what I guess is a light touch of oak. The immediate feeling on the palate is characterized by a good viscosity and powerful taste. Young, with delicious grip and a really long lingering taste. I guess this would be ideally suited for being kept for a number of years in the cellar, but it’s definitely enjoyable now.
As if to tease us, Caviste put a bottle of Gondonne 2008 Chardonnay Domaine Goisot on the table. The evolution with the few extra years was very noticeable with a mature dark touch, nutty, yellow fruit and cold sweetness on the nose. The taste was creamy, rich with a caressing but very distinct acidity. Rich and still young. I glanced at what this bottle cost at the launch a few years back and today it certainly looks as if you get very much wine for your money. It may be a nice reminder to look for gold grains outside the most famous appellations. A good reminder that it is very worth-while to look for quality producers outside the famous appellations. And don’t forget to put away some bottles in the cellar once you have found your good growers, you will get a great pay-off in that way.
The box with six bottles costs 1090 SEK at Caviste.se but can also be found in some other countries and at the domaine.
Sven-Olof Johansson is a wine enthusiast in Stockholm with a long history of wine tasting experience.
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