Just two hours north of the Langhe, the vineyards of Alto Piemonte offer a very different side of Piedmont. In the tiny DOC of Boca, Silvia Barbaglia is helping to revive a historic wine region, working with nebbiolo, vespolina and other unusual local varieties. Here she makes distinctive, elegant wines from the foothills of the Alps. We tasted some of her very original wines. Britt tells the story.
There aren’t many vineyards in Alto Piemonte, the northern part of Piedmont, but the ones that do exist often produce outstanding wines. We were reminded of this when we tasted through a selection from Silvia Barbaglia. Silvia has made a name for herself with her distinctive wines from Boca, a DOC in Alto Piemonte that she is determined to revive and bring back onto the radar of wine enthusiasts.
Wine tourists tend to spend their days in Piedmont in the Langhe, preferably near Barolo and Barbaresco. Understandably so. But Piedmont has much more to offer. A drive two hours north takes you to Alto Piemonte, to Ghemme and Gattinara , the two small DOCG districts, and further on to DOC Boca. Alto Piemonte is breathtakingly beautiful, with mountains close at hand and vineyards clinging to steep slopes.
Boca was once a much larger appellation, but today only 17 hectares remain. Still, it stretches across five villages. In one of them you’ll find Silvia Barbaglia, the third generation of winemakers on her family’s estate. She is now working to shine a spotlight on DOC Boca and DOC Colline Novaresi.
There are many reasons for this, not least the grapes. The most important variety here is nebbiolo, locally called spanna. Another is vespolina, related to nebbiolo but generally with lower tannins. Other local grapes include uva rara and croatina. Silvia produces several cuvées, each of them in very small volumes, between 2,500 and 4,500 bottles.
The Wines
Barbaglia Colline Novaresi Vespolina Ledi 2023
Beautiful, light colour; aromas and flavours of cherries and cherry pits; refreshing acidity; clear tannin and bright redcurrant notes that linger on the finish. The wine is 100% vespolina, grown on slopes at 400–500 metres altitude.
Barbaglia Colline Novaresi Croatina 2022
Fairly deep colour, typical of the variety. A powerful, slightly aromatic nose; dark berries; plenty of tannin; a faint roasted note; intense berry flavour; vibrant fruit and a pleasant touch of bitterness on the finish.
Croatina is grown in Alto Piemonte and also in neighbouring Lombardy.
Barbaglia Colline Novaresi Uva Rara 2023
Light red, attractive colour; easy‑drinking, slightly juicy style that matches the appearance; aromas leaning toward citrus and redcurrant; tannin present on the palate; refreshing acidity. A thirst‑quenching wine with good balance and a touch of elegance. Pleasant at just 11.5% alcohol.
Uva Rara means “rare grape variety.” The name may refer to its scarcity — though probably not, as it was once fairly widespread even if only about 500 hectares remain today — or to the fact that it produces relatively few berries per cluster. It is grown here, in Lombardy, and in small pockets in other regions.
Barbaglia Colline Novaresi Nebbiolo Il Silente 2023
Lovely, light red colour with an orange hue. Fine, expressive aromas: red berries, a hint of herbs and a touch of oak. Some tannin, but well balanced. Slender in body yet full of flavour, with bright acidity. Elegant.
Il Silente is Silvia’s only 100% nebbiolo/spanna. The wine is aged in large, old oak casks for 12 months and then rests another 12 months in bottle before release.
Barbaglia Colline Novaresi Cascina del Buonumore 2023
Light-bodied but aromatic and flavourful; a subtle floral note; fairly soft despite noticeable tannin; tart cherries; light and elegant; a hint of tobacco; finely textured.
This is a blend of nebbiolo and vespolina. Cascina del Buonumore is the name of the vineyard.
Barbaglia Boca 2018
Pale in colour, with a refreshing style, light tannins and a long finish. Supple, with ripe red berries, not overly tart, showing signs of maturity with developed aromas and a touch of earthiness. The wine has been aged for three years in oak (the regulations require three years of ageing before release).
Boca is a small wine village and DOC for red wines within the Colline Novaresi hills of Alto Piemonte. Boca, and all of Colline Novaresi, is known for its volcanic porphyry soils, a remnant of an ancient supervolcano.
