Panic! It’s in the middle of the summer, mother-in-law celebrates 70, you’re far away in the country and you have to find something decent and appropriately festive to serve in the cottage. Calm down. Go looking for a Pol Roger Brut Réserve (some 25-35 euro). It’s widely distributed and fits the bill – full-bodied, dense and toasty champagne that you can enjoy all by itself (but preferably not by yourself) or with some nice summery fish dish. Not cheap but a good choice for the big day or for some other festive occasion. Good bubble value.
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