Top quality Burgundy from Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé & Domaine Bonneau du Martray
Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé and Domaine Bonneau du Martray are two top producers in Burgundy, whose wines rarely come cheap. In the fall, there have been some exclusive launches from these two Burgundy producers on the Swedish market. BKWine Magazine has tasted them.
Domaine Bonneau du Martray
Domaine Bonneau du Martray has an intriguing past. In the 8th century the property is said to have belonged to a contemporary celebrity, Charlemagne, king of the Frankish Empire and Roman Emperor. Apparently he appreciated very much the wines from the Corton hill. In 1966 it was inherited by the Countess le Bault de la Morinière and is today managed by her son Jean-Charles who is also the winemaker.
The domain covers 11 hectares of which 9.5 ha are planted with Chardonnay, resulting in Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru. The remaining 1.5 hectares are planted with pinot noir to make Corton Grand Cru. The vines are planted on Corton hill on the west and southwest side at about 350 meters above sea level. The vines have an average age of around 45 years. The wines are aged in barriques of French oak of which 1/3 are new. Since 2002 they work organically.
Bonneau du Martray Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru 2012
Big, concentrated aroma with hints of oak, citrus and minerals, the taste is quite full-bodied and fresh, with concentrated tropical fruit, minerals and barrels, good length. ~120 euro, 91 p.
Bonneau du Martray Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru 2007
Medium somewhat closed aroma, with hints of mineral and citrus, the taste is still young, medium-bodied and fresh with a slightly tropical fruit and concentrated full mouth-feel. ~120 euro, 88 p.
Bonneau du Martray Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru 2004
Big, concentrated aroma with maturation tones and hints of white peach and honey, the taste is quite full-bodied, fresh and tight with maturity notes, grapefruit, citrus and barrels. ~120 euro, 91 p.
Domaine Comte George de Vogüé
Comte George de Vogüé was represented today by the sales director Jean-Luc Pépin who mainly spoke about the difficulties in the 2012 vintage. It was a cold and rainy spring and summer so it was not too much hope for a good vintage. But in mid-July, it turned around and became mainly warm and sunny until the harvest began in September. It was once more a good vintage, but not as good as 2009 and 2010. It was also a year of low yields. The name Comte George was taken in 1925 when George took over after his father Arthur (thus formerly Comte Arthur de Vogüé).
Today the company is managed by Georg’s two nieces Claire de Causans and Marie de Ladoucette. To assist with the operations they have the winemaker François Millet, the person responsible for the vineyards Eric Bourgogne (where else would he be working?) and sales director Jean-Luc Pépin. All three have worked there for more than 25 years and have helped to increase the quality of the wines and the demand for the wines, which unfortunately also has led to higher prices.
The winemaking is a mix between modern and traditional. They work organically but also do not want this to be certified. They uses minimal spraying and weeds are allowed to grow freely between the rows of vines and are ploughed in the spring to provide the necessary nutrients. Instead of spraying they put out pheromones that decreases the quantity of malicious insects who would otherwise be snacking on grapes.
Yields are only 30 hl / ha. All bunches are usually destemmed completely before pressing. The wine is lightly filtered and aged in barriques of French oak between 12 and 18 months. Approximately 15% of the barrels are new for the Chambolle wines and 35% are new for the grand cruss. Annual production is only around 35,000 bottles.
Comte George de Vogüé Bourgogne Blanc 2012
Medium nose, young, with notes of tropical fruit, citrus and minerals, the taste is young and a bit closed, with tropical fruit, minerals, grapey and good body and good length.
This is the world’s most expensive Bourgogne blanc! Repeated replanting in the vineyard with new vines 1980s and 90s made the winemaker take the decision to de-classify the wine. It could really be sold as Musigny Blanc Grand Cru. By 2017 they might consider that all vines are old enough so that then they take back the grand cru classification. ~200 euro, 90 p.
Comte George de Vogüé Bourgogne Blanc 1999
Big, mineral-rich aroma with hints of maturity, marsipan and barrels; the taste is quite full-bodied, dry and fresh, with maturity notes, mineral, barrels, good acidity and length. Young for its age and can surely be kept many more years. Cellar sample, 93 p.
Comte George de Vogüé Chambolle Musigny 2012
Young, big, sweet red-fruity aroma, with hints of raspberries, sweet cherries and lingon-berries; the taste is medium bodied, young and red-fruity, with notes of raspberry, fruity acidity and some tannins. ~100 euro, 88 p.
Comte George de Vogüé Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru 2012
Young, big, red-fruity aroma, with hints of raspberry, lingon-berry, barrels and minerals; the taste is quite full-bodied, fresh and red-fruity, with raspberry, fruity acidity, barrels and minerals and certain tannins. ~150 euro, 89 p.
Comte George de Vogüé Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru 2002
Big, red-fruity nose, perfumed, with maturity tones, wild raspberries, lingon-berries and barrels; the taste is quite full-bodied and quite ripe, red-fruity with raspberries, sweet cherries, with freshness, good balance and good length. ~200 euro, 91 p.
Comte George de Vogüé Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses 2012
Big, youthful and red-fruity aromas, with hints of wild raspberries, cherries and barrels; the taste is quite full-bodied, red-fruity, elegant and concentrated, with wild raspberries, barrels, good acidity and tannins, good length. ~330 euro, 92 p.
Comte George de Vogüé Bonnes Mares Grand Cru 2012
Big, youthful and red-fruity aroma, with hints of wild raspberries, cherries and barrels; the taste is full-bodied, tight and red-fruity with wild raspberries, blueberries and nicely toasted barrels, good length. ~330 euro, 92 p.
Comte George de Vogüé Musigny Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes 2012
Big, young and red-fruity aroma, with hints of herbs, raspberry jam, blackberry, smoky, cured meats and toasted barrels; the taste is quite full-bodied, young and red-fruity with raspberries, blackberries, cured meats and toasted barrels, with fruity acidity and tannins, good length. Clearly more complex and in a different style than the other wines. ~520 euro, 94 p.
Comte George de Vogüé Musigny Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes 1987
Big, mature red-fruity and spicy scent, still going strong, with wild raspberries and blackberries; the taste is medium-bodied and mature, with wild raspberries, cranberries, barrels and lively acidity. Fantastically vital considering the age and that it is a half-bottle. Basement Cellar samples of 375 ml! 93 p.
It’s nice to get to try so good and elegant wines from Corton Charlemagne, Bonnes Mares and Musigny. I would love to do this almost daily! But it unfortunately requires a bit thicker wallet…
The tasting was arranged by the domains’ Swedish importer Tryffelsvinet.
Roland Eriksson writes on BKWine Magazine on wine tastings with wine merchants and importers in Sweden. Roland is the author of a book on cognac (A Handbook: Cognac, 2007, published in Swedish) and one on rum as well as one on tea.
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