Pušipel doesn’t sound familiar, does it? But if we say furmint instead, the grape behind the fabulous sweet (and dry) wines of Tokaj in Hungary, then it suddenly rings a bell. Grape varieties can have confusingly many different synonyms in different countries, and not only that: within the same country, the same grape can have different names in different regions. We see it in Italy, France, Spain, Portugal…
Pušipel was a new grape for me when we drank it the other day. I think furmint is a wonderful variety. Its distinctive features are the high acidity (one reason to love it), citrus aromas, and a good body that often gives a fine mouthfeel.
The wine we drank came from Croatia, and here furmint is called pušipel. But to make things even more confusing, it is also sometimes called moslavac in this country. Significant plantings are found in the district of Međimurje, in the northernmost corner of Croatia bordering Slovenia and Hungary.
When Per was in Croatia earlier this year to judge in the Concours Mondial de Bruxelles-CMB Sauvignon Selection he had the opportunity to participate in a big pusipel tasting and was so impressed he brought a few bottles home.
Furmint is also grown in Slovenia, where it goes by the name Šipon. In both Croatia and Slovenia, the grape is almost always made into a dry wine. Whatever name it goes by, it’s a wine worth grabbing when you see it.
Medimurski Pušipel, Vinarija Kerman, Međimurje, Croatia
A very good wine — slightly aromatic, lots of citrus, good mouthfeel and length. Refreshing finish.
