Etna in Sicily is Europe’s highest active volcano. And one of Europe’s most spectacular wine regions. Nerello mascalese is grown here, planted on the slopes of the volcano in the black lava soil.
Andrea Franchetti was one of the first in modern times to recognize the quality potential here and in 2000 he created his Tenuta di Passopisciaro, located on the north side of Etna, 1000 meters above sea level. The vines are old, around 100 years old and pruned with traditional albarello to low and gnarled bushes. Nerello mascalese thrives here in the dark lava soil that is often eroded almost to sand.
Sometimes a bit of nerello cappuccio is added. The whites are made from carricante (mainly) and cataratto. Hot days and cool nights give a long growing season and a harvest that can be as late as the end of October or November. It certainly feels like this gives wines with character.
Here are some recommendations from Etna from producers that you might find in a wine shop near you.
- Benanti Etna Rosso 2023, ~25 euro, nerello mascalese and nerello cappuccio, another pioneer on Etna
- Tornatore Etna Rosso 2022, ~22 euro, 95% nerello mascalese, 5% nerello cappuccio
- Dea Vulcano Etna Rosso 2022, Donnafugata, ~27 euro, nerello mascalese, nerello cappuccio, a relative newcomer on Etna with long-time fame from other regions in Sicily
- Mandrarossa Etna Rosso, 2018, Cantine Settesoli, ~25 euro, nerello mascalese, nerello cappuccio, a successful co-operative
- Tornatore Etna Bianco 2024, ~22 euro, 100 % carricante
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Travel: BKWine organises bespoke wine tours to Sicily and Etna.
One Response
Etna wines truly highlight the influence of volcanic terroir. Century-old vines in black lava soils, with hot days and cool nights, give Nerello Mascalese and Carricante remarkable freshness and depth. A fascinating reminder of how place shapes character.