Borgogno, a Piedmont wine producer with a reboot

Borgogno is a wine producer Barolo in Piedmont with a long history. It changed hands in 2008. Following the change of ownership, the quality of the wines has continued to rise. When the winemaker Andrea Farinetti came to Sweden to present his wines he met with BKWine Magazine’s Ola Öhlund.

“I tasted all the vintages from 1961 and forward together with my friend Piero and when we were a little well-refreshed we decided on the blend for Barolo Selezione” says Borgogno’s winemaker Andrea Farinetti and laughs. He is in Sweden to present the new vintages of wines from Giacomo Borgogno. In his luggage he also brought some older vintages of Borgogno Barolo Riserva.

Borgogno is a producer with a long history from Piedmont primarily associated with wines in a more traditional style. Since the family Farinetti took over the company in 2008, there has been an improvement in quality and a modernised production without sacrificing traditions.

Andrea Farinetti of Borgogno, Barolo

Andrea Farinetti of Borgogno, Barolo, copyright O Ohlund

The entry-level wine Borgogno Langhe Rosso 2010 has cherry tones with spicy undertones. The structure is solid with good balance of tannins. An honest and unpretentious wine that works well for antipasti.

In March they launched the vintage 2013 of Borgogno Barbera d’Alba Superiore (in Sweden). The wine has an attractive berry aroma of raspberry, violets and a little liquorice. The aftertaste is long and has fine nuances. The wine is still young but has a good potential.

Borgogno Barolo Selezione consists of a mixture of the vintages -96, -97, -05 and -06. The idea has been to combine vintages with different strengths. The result is a fruity, well-structured wine with refreshing acidity and good depth. The aroma is inviting with hints of red berries and a hint of violets. The wine will be launched in June (on the Swedish market).

The barrel samples of the single vineyard wines Barolo Fossati 2010, Borolo Liste 2010 and Barolo Cannubi 2010 were promising. They showed great potential with power, elegance and a tannic structure that guarantees the wines longevity. The wines are made of 100% Nebbiolo and vinified according to similar principles. Ageing takes place in large barrels of Slavonian oak. Despite the similar conditions, the wines retain their own identity since the soil differs between the different vineyards.

Borgogno Cru 2010, Fossati, Liste, Cannubi

Borgogno Cru 2010, Fossati, Liste, Cannubi, copyright O Ohlund

Fossati is located near La Morra and have a soil that is rich in sand which gives elegant and fruity wines. Andrea Farinetti’s personal favourite is the historic vineyard of Liste that has been in Borgogno’s possession since the firm was founded in 1761. Liste is located near Fossati but has a larger element of clay which gives more powerful, spicy and structured wines. Cannubi is the vineyard which, according to Andrea Farinetti is the essence of Barolo: “Cannubi is Barolo but Barolo is not Cannubi”. In Cannubi you have the elegance of the Fossati and the structure from Liste. The 2010 vintage of the single vineyard wines are bottled in March and released on the market by summer.

The vertical tasting of Borgogno Barolo Riserva from the vintages -78, -97 and -07 gave the opportunity to compare wines at different stages of their maturation. The younger wines are characterized by great force and dark fruit with a little sweetness. The nose has herbs, tobacco and spices. The -78 impressed with a grand ripe aroma of truffles, mushrooms, undergrowth and light red berries. The taste was slender with a clear acidity and hints of red fruit. A wonderful match to a creamy pasta.

Ola Öhlund writes on BKWine Magazine on wine tastings with wine merchants and importers.

Piedmont is as beautiful as its wines are delicious. Hills with steep vineyard slopes, autumn fog, medieval villages, white truffles… Come with BKWine on a gastronomic wine tour to the Piedmont wine region.

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Vineyards in Piedmont, Italy

Vineyards in Piedmont, Italy, copyright BKWine Photography

This post is also available in: Swedish

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