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Some Recommended Wine Producers
BKWine is independent from all producers. The list of
producers presented below is an entirely personal selection of winemakers
that we find interesting. And it is not in any way intended to be
exhaustive. Many producers that we like a lot and who would deserve to be
here are missing because we have not yet written about them. Many others
would also deserve to be here but we have not yet had the opportunity to
taste (and write about) their wines....
Läs
våra rekommendationer på svenska här!
Corsica
is making great progress in wine. Quality is still sometimes unpredictable
(but where is that not the case?) but you can find plenty of good wines,
both white, red and sweet.
Patrimonio, in northern Corsica, is home to many of the best Corsican wines.
The chalky soil is good for wine growing, the winds are less strong compared
to some other places. There is no co-operative on this part of the island.
The 32 wineries share the 450 hectares. You can also find sweet white wines
from this part of Corsica but then they are called Muscat du Cap Corse.
Jean-Paul Gentile, Domaine Gentile
 AC
Patrimonio, 20217 Saint-Florent, ph 04 95 37 01 54
Niellucciu is the dominant grape in Patrimonio. It is a grape variety that
is related to the Sangiovese, found in Tuscany, which is sometimes quite
evident. The vintage 2002 from Domaine Gentile has exactly the
characteristics that I find typical in Corsican wines: full-bodied, with a
fair amount of tannin and a hint of “animal” (game, leather…). Domaine
Gentile’s white wine is made from Vermentino (called Rolle in Provence) and
is dry and refreshing with a contrasting earthy or mineral character. In
general, Corsican wines actually have more elegance than one might expect
from a district so far south. Perhaps it is the high altitude and the strong
winds that moderate the otherwise high temperatures.
 Clos
Signadore
AC Patrimonio, 20232 Poggio d’Oletta, ph 06 15 18 29 81
A relative newcomer in Patrimonio is Clos Signadore. They made their first
vintage in 2001. Eresi 2005, made from 80% Niellucciu and 20% Grenache, is a
quaffable, easygoing wine while the cuvée prestige, called simply Clos, with
100% Niellucciu is more typically Corsican with flavours of spices and herbs
and even juniper. Quite elegant and very good.
 Yves
Leccia, Domaine d'E Croce
AC Patrimonio, 20232 Poggio d’Oletta, ph 04 95 30 72 33
Another (new) recommended producer in Patrimonio is Yves Leccia, making wine
on 12 hectares. He makes a very attractive white Vermentino with quite a lot
of “fat” (‘gras’ in French, giving the wine a round, soft and full-bodied
character) but also a fresh acidity. He uses no oak and he dos not let the
wine go through the malolactic fermentation. He makes several red wines,
e.g. “Patrimonio 2004” from 90% Niellucciu and 10% Grenache. Here the
relation to Sangiovese is very apparent: a certain dryness and aromas of
cherry stones, a high acidity and a good body.
(Brief 34)
Provence
Domaine de Triennes, Provence
Route Nationale 560, 83860 Nans-les-Pins,
www.triennes.com
Triennes is a property that has attracted quite a lot of
attention lately although it carries the quite modest appellation of Vin de
Pays du Var. But you should not be fooled by the humble origin – the wines
are excellent and interesting and we would be surprised if they were not.
The winery was founded by two Burgundy legends: Aubert de Villaine (Domaine
de la Romanée Conti), Jacques Seysses (Domaine Dujac in Morey St Denis),
together with Michel Macaux. In 1990 they bought a rather run-down property
between Aix-en-Provence and Brignoles and gave it the name Triennes, after
the name used for a roman wine feast (and perhaps the fact that they were
three partners?). They did some replanting with Chardonnay on soil that was
similar to Burgundy, Syrah on soil that was more iron and clay rich, and
Merlot on a flat but well drained plot that reminded them of St Emilion.
Domaine de Triennes now makes very good wines at very affordable prices –
the powerful and well structured Cuvée Sainte Auguste, made from Cabernet
Sauvignon and Merlot, Les Auréliens from Syrah and Cabernet, and the white
Sainte Fleure from Viognier, a full-bodied wine with a fresh acidity and
notes of ripe apricot and flowers. (Brief 48)
  
Château Vannières, Bandol
www.chateauvannieres.com
This beautiful property is in one of the best know appellations by the
Mediterranean: Bandol. They have a young and dynamic winemaker,
Jean-Philippe Fourney, who is continuing, and enhancing Vannières’ tradition
of making excellent, full-bodied Bandol wines that often need some bottle
age. Made from the interesting Mourvèdre grape variety. The property covers
a total of 33 hectares of vineyards. (Brief 41)
  
Domaine de La Tour du Bon, Bandol
83330 Le Brûlat du Castellet, tel 04 98 03 66 22
La Tour du Bon is in the small Mediterranean appellation of Bandol. The 17
hectares are beautifully situated at the foot of the hilltop village Le
Castellet (and with a view over the sea a clear day!). Lots of sun and vines
growing on a soil dominated by clay and limestone gives powerful wines full of
individual character. The owner and winemaker, Agnès Henry-Hocquard blends the
archetypical Bandol grape Mourvèdre with some Grenache, Cinsault and Carignan.
Just Mourvèdre gives wines that are a bit one-dimensional, she says. 14 euro for
the 2003 vintage at the winery
(Brief 39)
  
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Château Roubine |
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Valerie och Philippe Riboud, Route de Vins (RD 562), 83510 Lorgues , tel: 04
94 85 94 94
Valerie and Philippe Riboud bought the beautiful
Château Roubine with the adjoining 75 hectares of vineyard in 1994. Neither of
them had much experience of wine growing at that time. Valerie had been
working in the hotel and restaurant sector and Philippe was a sportsman (six
Olympic medals in fencing!). So they had to learn everything from scratch.
As for all growers in Provence rosé wine is important for Chateau Roubine.
It accounts for 45% of production and is a high quality rosé, in particular
the prestige cuvée “Philippe Riboud” made exclusively from the unusual but
interesting grape variety Tibouren (~12 €/bottle). It has concentrated
fruit, some smokiness and some touches of lemon and orange peel. Also the
red “Philippe Riboud” (14€), predominately made from Syrah, and my favourite
among the white wines, Cuvée Bargemon (~12€) made from Sémillon and slightly
oaked, are very good. All are Appellation Contrôlée Côtes de Provence.
More info on their site
www.chateau-roubine.com. See
photographs on my site.
(Brief 30) |
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Château de Roquefort
Côtes-de-Provence |
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Behind Bandol and Cassis, almost in the mountains, you
find this producer where the vines grow on red clay soil mixed with
limestone. It is managed with great care by Raimond de Villeneuve. He took
over this family estate in 1995 and rapidly changed it to bio-dynamic
production. His wines are powerful, full-bodied, with lots of fruit,
sometimes a bit rustic. They are often based on Grenache, his favourite
grape variety. You can find them at Lafayette Gourmet, bd Haussman, Paris 9e
(for example Les Mûrs 2001 for 11.90€).
(Brief 2) |
Domaine de la Suffrène
Bandol |
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A
wine containing more than a touch of Provence. Bandol is a charming
district and town by the Mediterranean. Suffrène is warm, fruity (red
and dark berries) and a bit spicy. Cédric Gravier is considered as one
of the new stars in the appellation. 83740 La Cadière d’Azur. Can be
found, for example, at Lafayette Gourmet, bd Haussmann, Paris 9 and at
Carrefour in Brussels. About 14€ for the ’00, a bit less for the ’99.
www.domaine-la-suffrene.com
(Brief 3)
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Château Calissanne
13680 Lançon-de-Provence |
Château
Calissanne has become one of the classics in Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence. It
is also one of the biggest properties with its 115 ha of vines, plus 40 ha
of olives.They make three different cuvees: Cuvée du Château, Cuvée du
Prestige and Clos Victoire – each in the three colours, red, white and rosé.
The best of the whites, Clos Victoire Blanc, is made from old Clairette
vines and aged six months in new oak barrels, giving it a aromatic and
slightly ‘oily’ (but excellent!) character. The red Victoire is from
specially selected Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes and tastes of spices,
freshly roasted coffee and cinnamon and has a long, lingering taste. A
wonderful winter wine.
(Click the picture for more photos.)
(Brief 7) |
Cave d’Embres et Castelmaure, Corbières, Languedoc
1360 Embres et Castelmaure, Corbieres, tel.: 04 68 45 91 83
To
reach the village of Emres et Castelmaure (yes, that's how its called) you
have to follow narrow, winding roads, beautiful and remote and full of game
hunters in season… To arrive in the village and find a cooperative that is
modern, not to say trendy, is not quite what you expect. but Cave d'Embres
et Castelmaure has succeeded in convincing its members (les cooperateurs)
that to survive today you have to focus on quality. The wines are very good,
starting with the nice and easy-to-drink La Buvette to the more serious la
Grande Cuvée and Cuvée N:o 3. The labels are decidedly modern, perhaps
designed with younger drinkers in mind, as are the bag-in-boxes. Now they
can even boast a brand new architecture designed winery. Some call it "un
Guggenheim des Corbières"… (Brief 59)
Ermitage de Pic Saint Loup, Languedoc
34270 Saint-Mathieu-de-Tréviers
An
excellent producer in the beautiful Pic St Loup area a bit north of
Montpellier. The Ravaille family owns the property since a few hundred years
back. The current generation is the fifth with the tree brothers Jean-Marc,
Xavier and Pierre in charge. They have 35 ha with a great variety in soil
types giving added complexity to the wines. Two of my favourites are the
Cuvée Classique made from grapes grown on red clay and gravel. The wine is
concentrated with a bouquet of red berries and garrigue (herbs, thyme,
laurel…), and the Cuvée St Agnès, grown on limestone with some rocks, giving
a dense, concentrated wine with lots of herbs and minerality and a spicy
finish. All their wines are very well structured. (Brief 58)
Mas Champart, Saint-Chinian
Bramefan – Route de Villespassans, Saint-Chinian,
Isabelle
and Mathieu Champart is a charming wine maker couple who fell in love with
the spectacular scenery in Saint Chinian, one of the appellations in the
Languedoc region, a bit to the north of Béziers. They make both red and,
more unusual for the region, whites. Their whites have an excellent acidity
and freshness in spite of the very hot climate. Their Vin de Pays is made
from 100% Viognier with nice fruit and quite aromatic – as it should be. The
white Saint Chinian is made from Marsanne, Roussanne, Bourboulenc and
Grenache Blanc, giving it a complexity and body mixed with a hint of oak
aging. They also make excellent reds of course. My favourite is the cuvee
Côte d'Arbo, lots of spices in this wine made primarily from Syrah grapes.
(Brief 57)
Domaine de la Coste, Coteaux du Languedoc – Saint Christol
Phone 33 (0)4 67 86 02 10 Fax 33(0)4 67 86 07 71,
www.la-coste-moynier.fr
Luc was the first to realize the great potential in the soils around Saint-Christol,
a terroir just north-east of Montpellier. Luc and Elisabeth Moynier created
Domaine de la Coste in 1975. Their grapes grow in poor soil that is
difficult to work, filled with stones much like the galets in
Châteauneuf-du-Pape. And the vineyard creates some quite rustic wines
whereas others are much more elegant. Luc’s and Elisabeth’s favourite grape
is Mourvèdre. Wines worth seeking out today before they get pricey (which
they are far from today!). (Brief 54)
Château de l’Engarran, Lavérune
www.chateau-engarran.com
The
two sisters Constance Rerolle and Diane Losfelt are the third generation
of women who manage the vineyard and the beautiful 18th century chateau
in Lavérune just outside Montpellier. The family didn’t bottle their own
wine until 1978 but has since become one of the better known properties
in Languedoc. Elegance as well as body are keywords for their wines,
expressed e.g. in the cuvee Quetton Saint Georges made from 80% Syrah
with aromas of chocolate, ripe berries and freshly roasted coffee.
(Brief 54)
Domaine des Grécaux, Languedoc, Monteyroux
Isabelle and Alain Caujolle-Gazet, 34150 Saint-Jean-de-Fos, tel 04 67 57 38
83
Alain
and Isabelle Caujolle-Gazet settled to make wine in Montpeyroux in Languedoc
in 1998. Today they have 11 hectares, 7 of which are on very poor soil (and
thus good for wine growing) on the Montpeyroux plateau and this is the
source of their cuvée Héméra. This is an excellent example of this peculiar
Montpeyroux terroir, says Alain. Héméra is made from 75% Syrah and 25%
Grenache. The style is densely concentrated with typical aromas of Syrah –
charcuteri, spices and dark berries. Try it, or any other of the Grécaux
wines, if you can find it! (Brief 52)
Château de Lascaux, Vaquières, Coteaux du Languedoc-Pic
Saint Loup
www.chateau-lascaux.com
In
Pic Saint Loup, a short drive north of Montpellier in the Languedoc region
in France, you can find many high quality wine producers. One of those is Ch
Lascaux, a family vineyard run by Jean-Benoît Cavalier. The property covers
53 hectares, the soil is, as often in this region, very poor. The well
balanced wines are characterised by an aromatic complexity and a refreshing
acidity. They make several cuvées, for example the white Pierre d’Argent
made from Vermentino, Rousanne and Marsanne. Or the red Les Secrets, made
from Syrah and Grenache grapes with very low yield: spicy and full-bodied.
(Brief 50)
Mas de Perry, Coteaux du Languedoc
Murles, tel 04 67 84 40 89
Geneviève
and Didier Ponson-Nicot and the two children manage this charming family
property just north of Montpellier. Stéphanie, the daughter is responsible
for the wine making and Olivier, the son, for the vineyards. They make a
very good Grenache Blanc-Marsanne cuvée and a very unusual and interesting
on 100% Ugni Blanc – late harvest (but it’s a dry wine) and 3 hectolitres
per hectare… Mas de Perry is probably a domain that we will hear more of in
the future. (Brief 49)
Château Pech Latt, Philippe Mathias, Corbières
11220 Lagrasse, Tel + 33 (0) 4 68 58 11 40
A narrow road from the village Lagrasse in the Corbières
leads to Chateau Pech Latt, owned by the Burgundy house Louis Max. The
winery and vineyard is manage by the enthusiastic oenolog Philippe Mathias.
It’s a big vineyard – 120 ha, 100 of which are planted with vines – all in a
single plot, and without any close neighbours. “An advantage”, says Philippe
“when you want to run the vineyard organically”, which they do since 1991.
90% of the production goes o export. “Selling Languedoc wines in France is
difficult. The French ’drink the label’” Philippe explains, using the
expression “buveurs d’etiquettes” – all the worse for the French we can only
say. Balance is a central theme for the Philippe, balance in the vineyard,
between different plants and animals, and balance in the wine cellar. Pech
Latt Cuvée Tradition make up 85% of the production, made from 50% Carignan
and some Syrah, Grenache, and Mourvèdre. A wine with distinct typicity, deep
colour and powerful bouquet, a good structure with quite a healthy dose of
ripe tannins and notes of the local garrigue herbs. Other cuvées: Vieille
Vignes, dominated by Carignan, and Cuvée Alix that has been aged 16 months
in wood. Excellent and good value wines. (Brief 48)
  
Domaine d’Aupilhac, Sylvain Fadat
34150 Montpeyroux, tel 04 67 96 61 19,
www.aupilhac.net
Sylvain Fadat prefers to spend his time in the field.
That’s where the important work is done, in his opinion. He’s one of the
stars in the Languedoc, with Domaine d’Aupilhac that he created in 1989,
north west of Montpellier. At that time, Languedoc still had a low-quality,
big-volume reputation and Sylvain became one of the pioneers in on the path
towards higher quality. He understood the fantastic potential, there to be
discovered, in the vineyards around his home village – Montpeyroux. Today he
makes a wide range of wines, both white and red, and all have lots of
substance and personality. For example, his cuvées from very old vines of
Carignan and Cinsault. (Brief 47)
  
Clos Centeilles, Languedoc
34210 Siran, tel 04 68 91 52 18
Daniel
and Patricia Domergue consider Cinsault to be the best grape in the whole of
Languedoc! And also the most typical. Grenache and Carignan are both
newcomers, introduced after the phylloxera crisis, they say. They bought the
run down Clos Centeilles in 1990 with 10 hectares of Cinsault, Carigan and
Grenache. Already the very first vintage they were impressed by the quality
they had from Carignan. Now they make tow Cinsault cuvées, Campagne de
Centeilles and Capitelle de Centeilles, as well as one more “traditional”
blend on Syrah, Mourvèdre and Grenache, the Clos Centeilles. Le Carignissime
is an original cuvée from 100% Carignan.(Brief 44)
Domaine Piccinini, Minervois-La Livinière, Languedoc
www.domaine-piccinini.com
Jean-Christophe’s
father, Maurice Piccinini, was for many years in charge of the village
co-operative in La Livinière and turned it into one of the best in
Minervois. He was also a driving force behind Minervois being elevated to
AOC status and subsequently La Livinière. The son, J-C, trained as
oenologist and wanted from the start to make and bottle his own wines. His
wines are today among the “safe bets” for excellent wines from Minervois.
Try and find, for example, his Clos Angély, that he makes in both red and
white version (or any other of his cuvées for that matter). (Brief 42)
Clos Marie, Coteaux du Languedoc-Pic Saint Loup
Route de Cazeneuve, 34270 Lauret, tel 04 67 59 06 96
Christophe
Peyrus loves the concept of “terroir” and the wild almost barren landscape
around Pic St Loup in Languedoc. His property, Clos Marie, that he runs
together with Françoise Julien, has almost from the very first vintage in
1994 been among the best wineries in Pic Saint Loup and the whole of the
Languedoc. Christophe runs the vineyards according to bio-dynamic principles
and has an unusually high planting density to get more concentrated wines,
better balance, freshness and elegance. An example is the white 2005
Roussanne/Carignan Blanc/Macabeu blend giving a very good and flowery wine;
the Metaire du Clos 2001 with lots of fruit, tobacco, and mint; or the
softer 2000 Olivette with hints of violet and black and red currants. “They
Musigny” of the Languedoc… according to Christophe.
(Brief 36) |
Château Pech-Redon, Coteaux du Languedoc-La Clape
Narbonne, tel 04 68 90 41 22
 It
is almost a breath taking ride up to Château Pech-Redon: The vineyard is
high up on a hill top, part of the chalky La Clape mountain range stretching
between Narbonne and the Mediterranean. The winding road seems never to end
but when you finally reach Pech-Redon you get a good view and a chance to
meet the talented wine maker Christophe Bousquet. Christophe has 42 hectares
in a very dry and sunny climate (3000 sun-hours per year). His best wine is
called Centauré, which is the name of a small flower that grows among the
cliffs on the hill but that has almost become extinct. This is his way to
make sure that the flower is not forgotten. It is an exclusive wine – a very
small production of old-vine Syrah (70%) and Grenache. He also makes an
excellent red Coteaux du Languedoc made from 50 year old Carignan (60%) plus
some Cinsault and Grenache. This wine certainly has the typical “Garrigue”
style.
(Brief 33) |
Domaine de la Prose, Bertrand de Mortillet, Coteaux du Languedoc-St
Georges d’Orques
Pignan, tel 04 67 03 08 30
Domaine
de la Prose is beautifully located on a hilltop with a view both over the
Mediterranean, the Pic St Loup mountains and Montpellier. Alexandre de
Mortillet and his wife had a “coup de foudre” and bought the property in
1989. Today it is their son Bertrand, with a diploma from the wine faculty
in Bordeaux, who is responsible for the winemaking. He has a talent that
makes you think this will be one of the future stars in the region. And what
did he think of getting an education in Bordeaux? Very good he says. There
they are better at organising things than “in the south” in Languedoc! The
wines are very good, e.g. the white Cadière Blanc made from Vermentino
(Rolle) and Grenache Blanc or the Grand Cuvée Rouge made from 90% syrah.
(Brief 32) |
Domaine Rimbert, Coteaux du Languedoc and Saint-Chinian
4, av des Mimosas, 34360 Berlou, ph 04 67 89 74 66
Jean-Marie
Rimbert is very focused on the soil. The soil where he works is schist and
very poor and, in his opinion, it is the key to giving the character to his
wines. He created his 20 ha domaine in 1997 on steep terraced slopes. He is
very fond of the Carignan grape, an excellent variety in his opinion,
provided the vines are not too young. He has 8 ha Carignan and they are over
80 years old. They were the main reason why he bought the property. He makes
a vin de table from
100%
Carignan, Le Chant de Marjolaine. Grapes are picked very ripe and the yield
is, given the age of the vines, very low. The wines can reach 14.5% of
alcohol but are still very well balanced without being overpowering, with
notes of cherries (~8euro). Le Mas au Schiste (the name is a word play: Mas
is a house and Schiste is the soil, and if you say the name in one go you
understand the hard work behind the wine) has a powerful fruit and the
particular “Garrigue” character reminiscent of herbs, juniper and ripe
fruit. He makes an excellent white Coteaux du Languedoc from the Marsanne
grape that is full-bodied and nutty. A very interesting property.
(Brief 32) |
Domaine
Haut-Lirou
Coteaux-du-Languedoc-Pic Saint Loup, 34270 Saint-Jean de Cuculles, tel 04 67 55 38 50
Pic-Saint-Loup is a sometimes spectacularly beautiful region some 20
kilometres from Montpellier and is one of the top districts within the
Coteaux du Languedoc. There are several very interesting wine producers here
and the district has applied to get its own AOC Pic Saint Loup (it now has
AOC Coteaux du Languedoc-Pic Saint Loup). “And we really want this
recognition” says Jean-Pierre Rambier who owns the Domaine Haut-Lirou
together with his son. They have 65 hectares planted 70% with Syrah and with
Grenache and Mourvèdre. Their white Vin de Pays du Val de Mont Ferrand is
made from half Grenache Blanc and half Sauvignon Blanc and has a nice,
refreshing acidity and flowery aromas. Domaine Haut-Lirou 2003 (60% Syrah
and 40% Grenache) is not aged in oak and has attractive aromas of ripe,
almost dried fruit. Their prestige cuvée, Esprit 2003, is made from a
selection of the best grapes from old vines and is spicy and complex and
will benefit from a few years bottle age.
(Brief 28) |
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Domaine Coupe-Roses
Minervois |
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Well made and interesting wines. Several different
cuvees, for example their base wine sold in one-litre bottles and very good
value. Price: €4-15 depending on cuvee. For example, the Cuvee Orience, full
of fruit made from Syrah (£7.75 from
www.harlequinwines.co.uk).
Phone: +33 (0)4 68 91 21 95,
coupe-roses@wanadoo.fr or
visit
www.wineanorak.com/couperoses.htm,
www.capdagde.net/vin/languedoc-roussillon/minervois/couperose.html.
(Brief 1) |
Domaine du Grand Chemin
Vin de Pays d’Oc , 30350 Savignargues, tel 04 66 83 42 83 |
 Emmanuel
Floutier at the Domaine du Grand Chemin at the foot of the Cevennes mountain
range makes wine in the appellation Vin de Pays d'Oc, a district that has
more success than most on the export markets - in particular vin de cépage,
wines from a single grape variety marked on the label. Emmanuel is quite
happy not to have to bother with the strict AOC regulations and instead
choose the grape varieties himself. He uses Chardonnay, Viognier, (which has
become very popular), Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Pinot Noir. He even
makes a very interesting blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir. Good
quality at very reasonable prices - between 5 and 9 euros.
(Brief 10) |

Cellier du Mas Montel/Mas Granier, Sommières
Mas Montel makes both Vin de Pays d’Oc and AC Coteaux du Languedoc. It
is very nice and good value for money wines, for example the Cuvée Jéricho,
a Vin de Pays made from 80% Syrah fermented in maceration carbonique
(uncrushed grapes fermenting, similar to what is done in Beaujolais). Easy
to drink with lots of fruit and berries in the character.
(Brief 19) |
Domaine
de l’Hortus, Coteaux du Languedoc – Pic Saint Loup
Framed by the majestic Pic Saint Loup and Montagne de l’Hortus, this
vineyard is less than an hour’s drive north of Montpellier. Jean Orliac and
his wife bought a small piece of land here 25 years ago after having fallen
in love with the beautiful scenery. With it came some vines and they have
now expanded the domaine to cover 35 hectares. All has been replanted – with
Syrah, Mourvèdre and Grenache for the reds and Chardonnay, Viognier and
Sauvignon Blanc for the whites. Domaine de l’Hortus has become somewhat of a
reference for Languedoc wines. Domaine de l’Hortus Grand Cuvée, around 14€
at e.g. Legrand, 1, rue de la Banque, Paris 1.
(Brief 23)
(click picture) |

Château Puech-Haut, Coteaux du Languedoc
34160 Saint-Drézery, tel 04 67 86 93 70
Twenty years ago there was nothing - not a vine - here at Château Puech-Haut
in Saint-Drézery. Now it is one of the most successful wine estates in
Languedoc, much thanks to the dynamic Gerard Bru and to the substantial
investments he has done in wine making.
(Brief 20) |
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Domaine Peyre Rose
Coteaux du Languedoc |
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Domaine d’Aupilhac
Coteaux du Languedoc-Montpeyroux |
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Domaine Henry
Coteaux du Languedoc-Saint-Georges d’Orques |
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Mas Jullien
Coteaux du Languedoc |
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- - Roussillon
- - |
Cellier des Dominicains, Collioure, Roussillon
www.dominicain.com
A
quality-oriented co-operative (especially in recent times) in the middle of
the very picturesque village of Collioure. The winery is in what was
previously a Dominican monastery from the 13th century. They have put in
place a system that encourages the growers-cooperatuers to improve the
maturation and quality of their grapes. As everyone in this region they do a
Vin Doux Naturel (fortified wine) under the Banyuls appellation but they
also make some "normal" red cuvees, e.g. the Colline de Matisse (2007 for
7€), a decent, easy-to drink red wine with good freshness, or the Les
Culottes (2006, 9.50€), a well made fruity wine with aromas of ripe berries.
(Brief 58)
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Domaine du Vieux Chêne
Denis Sarda-Bobo, Espira de l’Agly, Rivesaltes
This is a large property covering some 110 hectares just outside of
Rivesaltes. Denis Sarda-Bobo makes a fresh and fruit Muscat de Rivesaltes
(100% Muscat Petits Grains) and some very powerful dry red wines, the best
from 100% Syrah.
(Brief 19) |
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Domaine Sarda-Malet
Suzy Malet, Perpignan |
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One of the classic Roussillon domaines. |
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Domaine Cazes Frères
André et Bernard Cazes, Rivesaltes |
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The best known and maybe the best of the estates in
Rivesaltes. Mainly known for their VDN-wines but they also make some
interesting dry wines. |
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Domaine Mas Amiel, Maury |
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The best known producer of Maury, neighbour to Rivesaltes.
A wide range of interesting wines. |
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Domaine Gauby
Calce |
|
Owned by Gérard Gauby since 1985. Has been a rapidly
rising star of Roussillon and is now one of the top producers. Low yields
(30hl/ha), old vines (100 yr old carignan) etc. |
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Domaine Ferrer-Ribière
Terrats |
|
A young estate but with very old vines, e.g. 80 year old
carignan. A range of good to very good wines, both red and white. The top
cuvée is Cana – less than 20hl/ha – oak aged. A wine to keep. |
- - Sud-Ouest
- -
Vignoble Tour de Verdots, AOC Bergerac
Conne de Labarde
David
Fourtout is the winemaker and owner of this excellent winery in Bergerac, a
little bit east of Bordeaux. In the recently built winery building he has
installed specially designed fermentation tanks to achieve the characters he
wants. One floor down, underground, he has the barrel cellar that where you
can get a close look at the soil thanks to the naked walls, as well as a
curious underground river. He makes arrange of wines from modestly priced
every day drinking wines to very ambitious super-cuvées. Don't miss his "Le
Vin selon David Fourtout" (The Wine according to DF)!
Watch the interview with David on BKWine TV! (Brief 57)
Château Belingard, Bergerac
Bergerac, 24240 Pomport
 Comte
Laurent de Bosredon took over this family property in the mid-80s. He had, and
has, one target in mind: to raise the quality of, and the consumer interest for,
the two appellations Bergerac and Monbazillac. He started practicing the methods
developed by the oenologist Denis Dubordieu, researcher in Bordeaux. For
example, a few hours skin contact for the white wines and some oak aging on the
lees for both the reds and the whites. Or the importance of measuring the
phenolic ripeness of the grapes to be able to decide on the best time to
harvest. Chateau Belingard was originally best known for its Monbazillac wines
but Laurent’s improvements in winemaking and quality have given the dry white
wines a more prominent place: fresh, apply, with no or very little oak for
Chateau Belingard (“tout court”) or the oak aged Blanche de Bosredon, named
after Laurent’s grandmother. And the reds should not be forgotten either! (Brief
43)
Chateau Tour des Gendres, Bergerac
24240 Ribagnac, tel 05 53 57 12 43
Luc de Conti of Domaine Tour des Gendres is a well known character in
Bergerac. He has been a precursor and a source for inspiration for many
producers in the Sud-Ouest region. He has researched e.g. how the deposit
may influence the character of the wine and he was a pioneer in using
micro-oxygenation (micro-oxidation, micro-bullage). His view is that the
lees (the deposit) nourishes the wine during the aging process. So to
maintain the lees he does not rack the wines during the aging process.
Instead, if the wine needs aeration, he uses micro-oxygenation. de Conti was
also an early adopter of organic culture and is today moving towards
bio-dynamic culture as the vineyards improve in health. Over time he has
become more and more restrained in the use of oak and now he never uses more
than 50% new barrels. On the white side he has a soft spot for Sémillon that
achieves a wonderful expression in the excellent Cuvée de Conti.
(Brief 39)
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Domaine Mouréou, Madiran
One of the best estates in Madiran, owned by Patrick Ducournau. Ducournau is
also known for being the person who invented micro-oxygenation – a method
widely used today to make tannins softer. His best cuvée, Chapelle Lenclos,
is made from 100% Tannat and is an incredibly powerful, tannic and dark wine
full of flavour.
(Brief 23) |
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Domaine Cauhapé
Jurançon |
|
A safe bet for both sweet and dry Jurançon. They used to
make an excellent red but no longer do it. |
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Alain Brumont:
Château Montus & Château Bouscassé
Madiran |
|
In
spite of all the sunshine at the end of the season winter is closing in on
us, and with that kind of weather a good Madiran can be nice. Madiran also
goes very well of course with the Sud-Ouest cuisine, such as cassoulet and
confit de canard, not to mention (a not very regional) côte de boeuf. The
most well known name in the region is without a doubt Alain Brumont. He
happily experiments with the winemaking, not least with barrel aging, so for
example, his Millenium Cuvée was aged for 2000 days (!) in barrel.
He makes no compromises in his wine making. The wines are often very tannic
when young and we consumers have better be patient. In particular, his top
cuvées need quite some time to mature, for example the Vieilles
Vignes made only from Tannat grapes, a quality grape variety that gives
wines with a touch of cedar wood, cigar, leather, spices, dark berries and
plums. And, as mentioned, lots of tannin. The most famous of his wines are
the Château Montus and Château Bouscassé. You can find both e.g. at Lavinia,
3-5 bd de la Madeleine in Paris (Bouscassé ‘99 at 11.50€, Bouscassé Vieilles
Vignes ’99 at 18.30€).
(Photograph: Mme Brumont at Vinordic)
www.montus-madiran.com
(Brief 5) |
|
Domaine Robert Plageoles
Gaillac |
|
Domaine Brana
Irouléguy |
|
Château Belingard
Bergerac and Monbazillac |
|
Clos de Gamot
Cahors |
|
Since long one of the best producers of Cahors but have
recently improved further. |
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Clos Triguedina
Cahors, Jean-Luc Baldès, 46700 Puy-l’Evêque, ph 05 65 21 30 81 |
|
Clos
Triguedina is a well known domain in Cahors with a very good and consistent
quality. Recent investments in the cellar are further improving the quality.
The cuvée Clos Triguedina is made from Malbec (here in Cahors often called
Auxerrois), Merlot and Tannat, a fruity wine to be drunk fairly young. Cuvée
Prince Probus is 100 % Malbec, mostly very old vines – some over 100 years –
and spend some time in new oak barrels. A wine that can, and should, be kept
a few years. Drink it with a local speciality, like confit de canard, magret
de canard, cassoulet... Clos Triguedina is sold at La Grande Epicerie, rue
du Sèvre, 75007 Paris (Prince Probus 1998, 21.20€)
(Brief 9) |
|
|
- - Northern
Rhône - -
Domaine Alain Graillot, Crozes-Hermitage
Les Chênes Verts, 26600 Pont de l'Isere, 04 75 84 67 52
Do
you like the really character-full, almost caricature style of Syrah – smoky,
tarry, charcuteri, freshly ground pepper…? Then you should definitely try the
Crozes-hermitage from Alain Graillot. Fabulous wines for Syrah addicts. Alain
was part of the revival of the Crozes district some 20 years ago and has since
inspired many younger winemakers to move up the quality scale. (Brief 56)
Domaine Vincent Paris, Cornas
Chemin des Peyrouses 07130 Cornas, ph 04 75 40 13 04
Vincent
Paris made his first wine in 1997 and was soon mentioned as one of the future
young stars in Cornas. Now it is perhaps time to remove future. Vincent’s uncle
is the well known producer Robert Michel, maker of some of the finer Cornas
wines, so he has some family traditions to build on. He was fortunate to inherit
some very old vines, which, together with low yields and a meticulous work in
both the vineyard and the winery makes for very full-bodied and concentrated
Syrah wines. (Brief 49)
Domain Gilles Robin, Crozes-Hermitage
Les Chassis Sud-Mercurol, Tain l Hermitage, ph +33 809 475 084 328
Gilles
Robin made his first vintage of Crozes-Hermitage in 1996. At that time he
had to help him his grand father, and when Gilles later created a cuvée
prestige he named it after his grandfather: Cuvée Alberic Bouvet. Gilles now
has 15 ha in Crozes and a small parcel in Saint Joseph. All Gilles’s wines
have a very good expression of the grape variety – Syrah. But he is keen
that also the terroirs should be evident in his wines. The best way to do
that, he says, is to grow your vines organically, so, no chemical
pesticides, and only natural fertilizers. Harvesting
is manual. His red Crozes-Hermitage,
Le
Papillon, comes from a five hectare plot with young vines that he has
planted himself. It is peppery and fruity (blackberries, black currants).
The 2003 costs 9 euro at the vineyard (if there is still some left).
Crozes-Hermitage Cuvée Albéric Bouvet is made from old vines, planted by
Gilles’s father 45 years ago. The wine has spent 16 months in oak. The
bouquet is full of spices – cinnamon, cloves, pepper, liquorice, and the
taste is long with a very expressive Syrah character (14 euro). Gilles also
makes a very nice white Crozes from Marsanne and Roussanne grapes. (Brief
40)
Domaine Yves Cuilleron, Condrieu, Rhone
Verlieu, RN 86, 42410 Chavanay, ph 04 74 87 02 37
When
Yves Cuilleron made his first wine in 1987 not many people knew of Condrieu
or Viognier. “I was part of the young generation that was part of the
recreation of the northern Rhône valley as a wine district” he says. Today,
Yves is one of the big stars in Condrieu. All his wines are of excellent
quality, from an aromatic Viognier Vin de Pays for around 11 euro to his
different cuvées of Condrieu (around 30 euro). (Brief 38)
There are more pictures in our photo gallery.
Domaine Pierre Gaillard, Condrieu and Saint-Joseph
42520 Malleval, ph 04 74 87 13 10
 A
short drive away from the river, uphill along winding roads with
breathtaking views you will find Domaine Pierre Gaillard. Pierre started his
career at Vidal-Fleury (now owned by Guigal) in Ampuis a short distance
away. While at Vidal-Fleury he was planning his own wine growing business,
bought some land and planted some vines. In 1987 he made his first
Saint-Joseph. His property has now reached 20 hectares including
Saint-Joseph, Condrieu, Côte Rôtie and Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes.
Certainly one of the best wine estates in the region both for red and white
wines.
(Brief 30)
André
Perret
17, route national 86, Verlieu, 42410 Chavanay.
One of the most interesting growers today in Saint-Joseph and Condrieu. And
apparently it is not much of a secret anymore! He rapidly sells all his
wines but if you are lucky you can find them in shops in e.g. Paris
(Lavinia*, Les Caves Legrand*) and Brussels (ROB*). Try them if you can find
them. E.g.: very aromatic Condrieu (~25€); or a powerful and typical syrah
from Saint-Joseph (~14€).
(Brief 13)
Domaine
Joël et Eric Durand
07130 Châteaubourg, ph 04 75 40 46 78
 In the middle of the little village Chateaubourg, just behind the church, in
the southern part of the appellation Saint Joseph you find the two brothers
Durand – Eric and Joël. They used to sell the grapes to larger producers
like Delas and Jaboulet but in the early 1990s they started to bottle their
own wine. Now they make fabulous wines from their 12 hectares (7 ha in St
Joseph and 5 ha in Cornas). As an example, a Cornas 2003 bought at the
domaine costs 23€.
Domaine du Colombier, Crozes-Hermitage
26000 Mercurol, tel 04 75 07 44 07
 Wines full of character, in particular the cuvée prestige called Gaby.
Florent Viale is a master at making wines from the Syrah grape. Until 1992
Florent and his father sold all the wines to a négociant. But at that time
they thought that the interest from Crozes-Hermitage had grown so much that
they started to make their own wines. Which they do outstandingly well! (Brief 20)
E. Guigal
69420 Ampuis, tel 04 74 56 10 22
If
you think of Côte Rôtie it is likely that you think of Guigal. Not
surprisingly since they make a third of all Côte Rôtie. And Guigal “père”,
Etienne Guigal who died in 1988 is somewhat of a legend in the area. But
today Guigal not only makes Côte Rôtie but also wines from all of the Rhône
Valley. All the wines keep a very high standard and one very good value wine
is their basic Côtes-du-Rhône (6€ at the source). More picture in the photo
archive. (Brief 14)
M. Chapoutier
18, avenue Docteur Paul Durand, 26601 Tain l’Hermitage, tel 04 75 08 28 65,
www.chapoutier.com.
 Chapoutier
makes wine all over the Rhône valley and today even further south in France
and in Australia, but the home is in Tain l’Hermitage. The company was
founded in 1808 and has long been a well respected house. But it reached a
new level of excellence when then 25 year old Michel Chapoutier took over at
the end of the 1980s. He has turned it into one of the best known and well
respected producers in France. He has not only improved the quality of the
wines and gone into new regions but also introduced innovative thinking like
Braille on the labels and organic principles in the vineyards. They have a
very wide spectrum of wines, generally good value for money. Some examples:
Rasteau (6.50 euro), Crozes-Hermitage (8.50 euro), Châteauneuf-du-Pape (17
euro), Cornas (21.50 euro), Hermitage (39 euro) and the very high-end
sélections parcellaires, e.g. ”Les Granits” Saint Joseph 2001 (40 euro) and
“Le Pavillon” Ermitage 2001 (126 euro). (Brief 12)
Domaine de la Cabasse
84110 Séguret, tel 04 90 46 91 12
 Domaine
de la Cabasse is situated just below the very picturesque village Séguret
where you should take a stroll on the old cobble stone streets and look down
on the vineyards. Cabasse belongs since 1990 to a Swiss couple, Alfred and
Antoinette Haeni. They have renovated the domaine and have opened a charming
small hotel and an excellent restaurant. The wines the make are also
excellent, for example: the white Pimevères (Séguret) is flowery with a
touch of honey (but dry of course – 6.50 euro) and the red Les Deux Anges (Sablet)
is well balanced and fruity (5.50 euro) (Brief 12)
Domaine Pierre Coursodon
Saint Joseph
Domaine Jean-Louis Grippa
Saint-Joseph
Domaine Alain Graillot
Crozes-Hermitage
- - Southern
Rhône - -
Domaine la Monardière, Vacqueyras, Rhone
www.monardiere.fr
The
owner, Christian Vache, is an enthusiastic vigneron passionate about making
the best wines from his terroir and from his vineyards. The property covers
20 hectares and has been extensively replanted and renovated since Christian
and his wife took over this family domaine in 1987. Excellent quality wines
with a lot of typicity from Vacqueyras. (Brief 53)
Château Saint-Cosme, Gigondas
 Louis
Barruol is owner and wine maker at Château Saint Cosme in Gigondas. He has
15 hectares of old vines that grow on very heterogeneous and complex soil in
a cool micro climate. He practices low yields and crafts wines with lots of
character and personality. He does not filter and uses sulphur very
sparingly. His Gigondas is dominated by Grenache while his Côte du Rhône is
made primarily from Syrah. (Brief 43)
Domaine Fontavin, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
www.fontavin.com
Shortly after Hélène Chouvet finished her training as an oenologist, in
1996, she took over the family property Domaine de Fontavin. From her 42
hectares she produces around 80,000 annually, half of which is exported. The
main grape is Grenache (70%) with some additions of Syrah, Mourvèdre and
Cinsault. Hélène prefers the Grenache that she thinks is well suited to the
local climate and the rocky soil in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The Fontavin wines
often have a warmth and spiciness but maintain a good, refreshing acidity.
Goes very well with game and other food with much taste. (Brief 41)
 
|
|
Domaine Viret, Côtes du Rhône-Villages
26110
Saint-Maurice-Eygues, tel 04 75 27 62 77 cosmoculture [at] domaine-viret
[dot] com
Philippe Viret and his father Alain has been practicing something called
“cosmoculture” since the early 1990s – a form of organic and bio-dynamic
method of cultivation where they fetch inspiration from both Maya and Inca
cultures and also ancient Egypt. The wine cellar has been constructed as a
pyramid and the interior has well deservedly been described as a “wine
cathedral” by Philippe. The different cuvées have names like La Cuvée
Solstice, Renaissance, Emergence, La Coudée d’Or or Energie. All are very
well made, often with a lot of elegance and spiciness, with good fruit and
structure. Can be found at Lafayette Gourmet in Paris and in many other
shops.
(Brief 37)
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Domaine Milan in Les Baux en Provence
Route de Cavaillon la Galine, 13120 Saint-Remy-de-Provence, Ph: +33
(0)4.90.92.12.52
|
|
 Henri
Milan is something of a bohemian and very proud of his healthy vines, which
he grows organically not far from the pretty town of Saint-Remy-de-Provence.
When you grow organically you improve both the environment and the wines,
according to Henri. His wines have a lot of personality, sometimes made
without any sulphite at all, as for example the cuvee Tuilerie Vieille 2000
(10€ at the domaine). The vin de prestige Clos Milan, a
Syrah/Grenache-blend, is powerful and complex, perfect with game. You can
find these wines at Lafayette Gourmet (bd Haussman, 75009 Paris).
(Brief 9) |
Château de Campuget
Costières de Nîmes, 30129 Manduel, tel 04 66 20 20 15,
www.campuget.com |
 Chateau
de Campuget in Costières de Nîmes is a beautiful property founded in the
1640s. It has the for the region typical soil that is a mix of stones ('galets')
and sand that forces the vine roots deep down to reach water. It is probably
the biggest property in Costières de Nîmes with its 160 ha and is run by
Jean-Lin Dalle assisted by his son Franck-Lin (sic). Despite its size they
maintain a very good quality level. The red ”cuvée tradition” is very nice
and quaffable (4.95 euro) and the prestige cuvée La Sommelière, mainly made
from Syrah, is full-bodied with aromas of coffee and spices (13 euro).
Campuget also makes a very good Viognier.
(Brief 10) |
Domaine Marcel Richaud
Côtes-du-Rhône-Village,
84290 Cairanne, ph: 04 90 30 85 25 |
|
  Marcel
Richaud does not want to make market adapted wines. His view is that it is
nature that decides what kind of wine it is. But since he is a first rate
wine maker the market likes his wines anyway. He is one of the leading
lights in the southern Rhône valley. “La Garrigue” is a Côtes-du-Rhône and
Marcel makes it into a typical south-Rhône wine: warm and Mediterranean in
style, with aromas of herbs and spices, rosemary, juniper,… You can find
Marcel Richaud’s wines in many places, e.g. at Lavinia, 3-5 bd de la
Madeleine, Paris 1e (e.g. his excellent white made from Clairette, Roussanne
and a touch of Viognier for 14.75€) or at ROB, 28, bd de la Woluwe in
Brussels (La Garrigue for 14.80€).
(Click the picture for more photos of Marcel.)
(Brief 7) |

Château Mourgues du Grès, Costières de Nimes, route de Bellegarde, 30300
Beaucaire
Château Mourgues du Grès is owned by Anne and François Collard. François
is oenologist and has previously worked at Château Lafite-Rothschild. Their
sun-drenched 35 hectares property is close to the Rhône river and has
deservedly received quite a lot of attention for their wines with plenty of
character and personality. They are often seen in Paris wine bars.
(Brief 19) |
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Château Mont-Redon
Châteauneuf-du-Pape |
|
Clos du Pape
Châteauneuf-du-Pape |
|
Château de Beaucastel
Châteauneuf-du-Pape |
|
- -
Loire - - |
Château de Chamboureau
Pierre Soulez, 49170 Savennières, tel 02 41 77 20 04 |
  Some
very good, and good value, wines made from Chenin Blanc from a property that
is owned by the Soulez family since 1949. They have some 20 ha in
Savennieres of which 6 ha is in the sub-appellation
Savennières-Roche-aux-Moines. The wines have the typical dry Chenin
character with minerals, honey and citrus. More picture in the photo
archive.
(Brief 14) |
Domaine Jo Pithon
Anjou, Les Bergères, 49750 St Lambert de Lattay, tel 02 41 78 40 91 |
This
if one of my favourites in the Loire-valley. In total the domain has 12
hectares and is situated approximately 25 kilometres from Angers. Chenin
Blanc is the only grape | |