Armagnac
Text by Richard James
© Copyright Richard James & BKWine
Watching Marc Saint-Martin stoke up Marie-Jeanne’s fire with chunks of dry
wood evokes romantic images of steam trains and times gone by. It’s actually the
name of his “probably at least 100 year old” travelling still: each one has a
story to tell and emphasises the artisan nature of Armagnac production even
today. Once he’d finished his first batch over the weekend, he was off touring
around with two mobile units distilling for other small producers before
returning to his makeshift cellar (a huge dilapidated barn about to be restored)
to carry on non-stop until Christmas.
15,000 hectares and the alambic
The Armagnac region covers a pretty wide area of southwest France located to
the west of Toulouse and about 150 km (100 miles) south of Bordeaux, although
we’re only talking about 15,000 hectares (ha), or 37,000 acres of vineyards and
6 million bottles each year. The workings of the continuous ‘alambic’ still and
the fruity spirit it generates create the main difference from Cognac, although
some Armagnac is double distilled like the latter (brand leader
Janneau for example).
In simple terms, wine is fed into one part of the still, where it cools the
alcohol vapour descending the coil. When hot, it crosses over to the column and
cascades down over the plates – eight are ideal according to St-Martin to avoid
over-purifying the spirit, others use from six to ten – bubbling together with
the vapours rising from the fire.
This infuses them with wine aromas as they pass over to the coil, condense,
cool and run out into cask. The raw spirit usually comes off below 60%; we
tasted it at 65 (a definite wow yet fine, floral and fruity) so adjustments were
needed. A copper still is considered “the best in terms of heat exchange,
holding temperature and as a catalyst to remove the yeast-lees,” St-Martin
explained.
Château du Tariquet
Château du Tariquet is also wood-fired “because it’s less even giving a
greater spectrum of flavours,” Séverine Chomat said. In contrast, Martine
Lafitte at Domaine de Boingnères prefers the regularity of gas to heat her very
handsome copper still. When you visit a few Armagnac producers, this is what
stands out. Whereas arguably Cognac is rather industrial and standardised in
taste, virtually everyone here offers an individual style; whether from a large
international operation like Tariquet (Yves Grassa) – although the Armagnac side
remains very craftsman-like – to a miniature traditional producer such as
Lafitte with her precious barrels of old vintage Armagnacs. The personalities
seem to come across in the product.
Tariquet’s estate at Eauze in the Bas-Armagnac zone covers nearly 1000 ha,
which Grassa expanded from the 70s to develop their booming wine production. The
contrast is startling between the damp cobwebbed cellar, full of dusty 400 litre
barrels of maturing spirit, and the mega-tech winery run by machines. The
varieties planted for distillation are Baco, Ugni Blanc and Folle Blanche; the
latter (same as Picpoul in the Languedoc) makes up a tiny percentage overall but
has become fashionable, as it’s the most characterful variety yet difficult to
grow and prone to rot. Séverine Chomat, who looks after Armagnac production,
explained: “we make the VSOP and Hors d’Age (see below) blends once every year
according to the market and stocks, and vintage in exceptional years.”
The young spirit starts its ageing in their other ‘dry’ cellar (which
promotes evaporation) in new barrels for up to three years, then is racked to
gradually older casks and finally ends up in the old cellar, where high humidity
slows evaporation. The fine-grained new barrels are slightly toasted, which
suits the Tariquet lighter coloured house style. The art is understanding how
time in new wood (and cask size/type/toast) influences flavour, to add a touch
of sweetness and roundness without becoming oaky.
Many small producers
Several producers make single varietal Armagnacs such as Folle Blanche, which
is an interesting approach (even if barrel ageing and strength are what gives
most of its character). Tariquet sells a boxed range including 4, 8 and 12 year
old. Many exceed the minimum legal maturation for their traditional blends:
Tariquet’s XO is 12 years old and Hors d’Age 18. Chomat has developed a new
range of three cask strength, single vat Armagnacs e.g. Fût no.6 XO at 54.9°
(571 bottles), which could ride in on the success of prestige Malts.
Château de Bordeneuve
Château de Bordeneuve – better known for their Baron de Sigognac brand – is
one of few left who only produces Armagnac. It’s run by the Guasch family,
father (who called himself “the nose”) and son Thomas, who handles packaging,
exports etc. The Bordeneuve label is sourced exclusively from their 15 ha
domaine and Sigognac from a wider area. As we tasted Guasch’s complex rich 1986
from cask, he described his philosophy: “Vintage is the priority, VSOP the
workhorse. Armagnac is a bit of a discovery, none tastes like another.” They
also have around 100 mixed vintages – the oldest is 1888 – from different
estates stored in large flasks (removed from cask to stop them drying out and
evaporating to below 40°), which are bottled to order to satisfy the ‘birthday
market’.
Vintage will always be a lucrative niche, although these lovely Armagnacs
still offer good value for money considering the quality. Promoting the idea of
years, domaines and châteaux also makes sense to remind consumers this is a wine
based product from an annual grape harvest, rather than more industrial process
like most spirits. Other products include Blanche de Bordeneuve, an unaged
grappa-like clear spirit that’s becoming popular; the same with lime essence;
and la Grande Josiane, 3 year old Armagnac flavoured with bitter and sweet
oranges.
Domaine de Boingnères - Whisky is expensive!
Domaine de Boingnères, dating from 1807, represents the traditional school.
She’s decided to distil just Folle Blanche as sales are down: “it’s a shame as
it’s a very good year.” Her vintage Armagnacs are naturally 47-49° undiluted;
the 1990 and 80 from cask both show promise with toasty coffee and prune notes.
Lafitte believes “about 30 years is perfect; they can and do keep longer but if
there’s too much rancio, they lose character and freshness… People say Armagnac
is expensive but, based on a yearly harvest, all this costs money. Whisky is
expensive.”
Domaine d’Espérance - blanche d'Armagnac
Domaine d’Espérance, bought by Jean-Louis and Claire de Montesquiou in 1990
– the date of their oldest Armagnac – is a relative newcomer based on a former
estate. “We restructured the vineyard (34 ha) to make vin de pays (80% of
production), because that brings in cash,” Sylvie Barrère told us. “Now we’re
focusing on Armagnac: you need to invest in time.” They’ve just completed a
spacious warehouse using as organic design and materials as possible. The
current range comprises two vintages, 5 & 10 YO and white Armagnac (not aged in
oak), which Barrère hopes “is perhaps the way forward with young people, as a
mixer in clubs.”
Château de Laubade: Armagnac, Bordeaux and Uruguay
Château de Laubade is the biggest Armagnac-only producer, with 105 ha,
according to export director Stephen Lemaitre; they also own several properties
in Bordeaux, Madiran and now Uruguay. Laubade has 80% of vintage Armagnac
business worldwide, which is “70% of our sales and exports are growing,”
Lemaitre enthused. Their labels are classic yet simple, and the date on vintage
styles (also packaged in smart boxes) features on a silver background right on
the front. The trade body BNIA (www.armagnac.fr)
– one of those very French organisations whose title carries the splendid
‘Interprofessionnel’ word – has held innovative tastings in New York and London,
including an Armagnac and chocolate masterclass and cigar matching. Just in case
you were short of ideas on how to appreciate it…
Terminology
Armagnac age & quality terms: VSOP or Réserve – at least 5 years old (meaning
the minimum age of the youngest Armagnac in the blend). XO – at least 6 years
old, Hors d’Age – at least 10 years old, mention of age – e.g. 5, 10 or 20 YO,
Vintage – from the stated single harvest.
© Copyright Richard James & BKWine
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