The Coteaux du Lyonnais
– All 380 hectares of it!
Text and photos by Grahame Martin
Copyright © Grahame Martin & BKWine
Living
in France has many advantages for wine lovers. One of the most rewarding can be
seeking out the lesser known wines of the smaller Appellations that are
excellent in quality and because of their lack of distribution or notoriety
often represent good value for money. Where are they? They exist in and around
all the wine producing regions of France. Without large scale distribution, how
do the producers exist? Some are in tourist areas, where the wines are sold to
the local hotels and restaurants to match up with the local foods, some rely on
eco-tourism as their mainstay, whilst others sell direct to the public (vente
directe) either through the numerous exhibitions organised by the Independent
Wine Growers Association (if they are member of that grouping) or at the ‘farm
gate’ as the British are apt to call it.
The Coteaux du Lyonnais, at just 380 hectares in size is one
of these smaller Appellations. It claims to have 25 Independent Producers and
one co-operative, the latter in Saint-Bel, accounting for 50% of the total
production.
The Coteaux du Lyonnais is located, as the name suggests,
around the city of Lyon, in a shape resembling a crescent. Even with its small
size, it is divided into three even smaller areas. To the north - in the Mont
d’Or, the centre – the valley of the Arbresle, and in the south – in the hills
to the west of Lyon to the beginning of the Northern Rhone wine region at
Vienne. One part of the AC was historically part of the Beaujolais but this was
politically changed many years ago. In its heyday in the 19th Century the area
covered 12, 000 hectares. The decline in size can be attributed to two main
factors, the urban sprawl of the city of Lyon, and reverting back to food
production – fruit and vegetable growing and market gardening – , which is far
more profitable than growing vines and producing wine, especially in the current
political climate relating to wine production in France. The areas remaining
under vine are those capable of producing the best wines under the agreed AC
laws.
History
In similar vein to the cuisine of Lyon, the vines arrived in
the areas with the Romans in 45BC and the development of their city of LUGDUNUM
(modern day Lyon). In the middle ages the vine and wine development was expanded
by the religious orders. It reached its apex in volume and vineyard size in the
19th Century at the time of the Industrial Revolution with the demand for wine
from the area’s coal miners and the silk workers in the city of Lyon City
itself. Then in 1880 phylloxera struck. Even with the development of grafting
onto American rootstocks the area never recovered.
After the Second World War the changes started to be made. In
1952 delimitation of the area and production level came into being with the
awarding of the VDQS (Vin Delimité de Qualité Superieur). On 9th May 1984 came
promotion to Appellation Controlée, followed in 1988 by the formation of the
Confrèrie des Vins des Coteaux du Lyonnais.
Coteaux du Lyonnais in the 21st. Century
In
the 21st Century the Lyonnais wine industry is very much in the hands of the
forward looking younger generation. In an interview with the President of the
growers Federation, Regis DESCOTTES (picture right), only 44 years of age
himself, he explained the philosophy for the areas wines, “It is not possible
for a small area like ours to be a world wide player. We do not, and never will
have, the capability to provide volume, any more than can one of the Beaujolais
Cru of a similar size. Our market is the area of the LYON conurbation where 60%
of our wine is sold and approximately 15 - 20% throughout the rest of France.
The majority of the 10% covered by the export market is handled by the
co-operative at Saint Bel and its members with a proportion of that appearing
under the labels of well known négociants from the Beaujolais such as Georges
Duboeuf. The remaining percentage covers sales at exhibitions, local markets and
at the ‘farm gate’. All these are increasing thankfully.”
When asked about how the area had reacted to the current
nationwide (and worldwide) overstock situation in wine, he replied – “ Being
small, we can more easily discuss and remedy yield limits and AC amendments than
in the large areas and regions where everyone wants his point of view to become
law. So far we have not had any major problems here.” On modernization of
equipment, vineyard and winemaking techniques, the comments coming from both
Regis and Marc (picture right) one of the proprietors of Domaine
Clos
St. Marc in Taluyers – indicated that wherever possible they keep up to date and
in many instances share the cost load with neighbouring producers. Machines for
vineyard work (including harvesting) are very evident as are modern stainless
steel tanks with temperature control.
Regis continued, “It is eco-tourism that has become very much
the vogue here, as indeed elsewhere in the eastern side of France. Several of
our members now offer Chambres d’hôtes facilities and as you can see many have
excellent tasting cellars where the private customer can visit to taste our
wines (and even some from other friends) and purchase on the spot at competitive
prices. But, we are all primarily ‘vignerons’ not shopkeepers and opening hours
are limited. Sometimes the older generation, the family, help out here. Most of
us can truthfully say that it was our parents and grandparents that brought us
into the business. This market is growing, and with the walking, cycling,
sightseeing, and heritage tours in our beautiful countryside, long may it
continue to do so”.
The Future
The only area of discord came with the mention of the possible
introduction of a Vins de Pays category for the Lyonnais. At present the Rhône
Department, to which the Lyonnais belongs, is one of 10 Departments refusing the
upper grade Vin de Table category that permits the use of varietal names and
vintages being used on the label and acts a sub-AC wine. The pro-lobby here
state that if a name could be agreed upon, the introduction of the Syrah and
perhaps Marsanne or even Viognier would give the area more choice of wines to
offer. The anti-lobby state that as the Lyonnais is only a small part of the
Rhône Department, the growers in the Beaujolais AC would have an easy way out to
produce a lower grade wine that would act as a death knell to a small area like
the Lyonnais. Then – who would pay for the new vines to be planted, where would
they be planted? That is still a question for the future and basically out of
the hands of the Lyonnais area except for the right to say ‘no’. Would any Rhône
politician care to stick his neck out and risk loss of votes?
Viticulture and Winemaking
The
grape varieties under the Appellation are limited to three – Gamay noir à jus
blanc for the red and rosé wines, and Chardonnay with a little help from the
Aligoté for the white wines.
The modern method of training the Gamay is the Cordon Royat (picture right), as
used a lot in Champagne, which enables mechanical harvesting to take place where
possible. The Chardonnay maintains it use of the Guyot cane pruning system. The
other ‘terroir’ factors – soil, aspect, climate and weather with the help of
‘homo sapiens’ also have their role to play. The Gamay produces it best wines in
areas where there are schists and granite outcroppings whilst the white
varieties are best when grown in limestone. Wherever possible the ideal aspect
is south-east to south-west taking as much as possible from the warmth of the
sun.
During the growing season the vigneron ensures that the
potential crop in kept well within the AC yield limits, with many in fact
staying well below the maximum. Harvesting is normally in early to
mid-September. In 2005 the condition of the grapes was almost perfect, no need
for sorting tables, although the total volume was well below average.
For the red and rosé wines the Beaujolais traditional
semi-carbonic maceration method is the norm. The rosé wine is produced by the
saignée method. Once harvested the grapes are vatted for five to seven days
before being pressed. Most houses now use the modern bladder presses. After
blending free run and pressed juice, the fermentation processes are completed,
nowadays in temperature controlled vats. Many of the producers are not happy
about using cultivated yeasts and the celebrated ‘banana yeast – 71B’, when
mentioned by me, encouraged some extremely rude comments relating to the “gout
bonbon anglaise”.
Bottling normally takes place in the spring of the following
year. The red and rosé wines are excellent ‘Vin de ‘Année” wines, but they
should be drunk within 2 to 3 years. What is most interesting to the potential
customer is the price. There is seldom a standard bottle sold at above 5 Euros,
and I purchased ex – cellar – all taxes paid – at below 4 Euros a bottle.
The white wine production is very traditional although the
grapes are often left in vats for a day or two before pressing. This does give a
little more depth to the final product, but if left too long can maker the final
wine ‘green and stalky”
Tasting Notes
Like all generic tasting notes, generalities are the always
dangerous and there can be a lot of variation from producer to producer. They
are given here only as an indication to style.
Red Wines
The style of the Coteaux du Lyonnais being made from the Gamay
grape can be described as similar in some ways to the Beaujolais. The colour is
a light very bright ruby, and the aromas are those of redcurrants, raspberries
with a hint of violet and peony. It is fresh and fruity on the palate with good
acidity repeating in flavour terms those of the bouquet. The finish, for want of
a better word, is medium. The normal alcohol level is 12% by volume. Served
slightly chilled is makes an excellent partner to both red and white meats, also
to the local cheeses, like St. Marcellin.
A fuller and more complex version is produced from often older vines, which
often has some oak maturation.
Rosé Wines
Most Lyonnais rosés are produced using the ‘saignée’ method.
In appearance they are normally salmon pink at the core with a very marked
redcurrant and raspberry bouquet. Dry, light and fresh on the palate, Lyonnais
rosés are great aperitif wines or accompaniments to cold meat platters, fish,
and salads. To anyone who likes boating, take a bottle or two with you to
celebrate the catch – if you make one.
White Wines
Producers here tend to follow one or two styles and sometimes
both. The first is a standard dry, floral and slightly aromatic chardonnay that
be or may not have a hint of old oak. The other style, usually a year older, is
produced and labelled as ‘fût en chêne’ – oak matured -. Both of these are wines
warrant inclusion in any home that is appreciative of a quality wine at a
reasonable price – most are under the 5 euro level – tax included!
These are the gems of the Lyonnais. Their mainly young
producers striving to retain and upgrade the quality image of their wines,
seeking out and working together for this aim, recognising the advantages,
disadvantages and problems of the wine production specialist in 21st Century
France. Could they perhaps be a role model to other small Appellations?
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