We didn't quite understand what was "new" in this (since Blanche has been
talked about for some time now, and since some of the PR text sounds like
"normal procedure" for Appellation Contrôlée. So, we put the question to
Sebastien Lacroix, the Director of the BNIA: "What does this really mean?".
QUESTIONS/REPONSES FROM SEBASTIEN LACROIX, DIRECTOR OF THE B.N.I.A (Bureau
National Interprofessionnel de l'Armagnac)
"In your view, what are the most important changes made by the new BNIA
AOC ruling for the Armagnac Appellation, and why?
Firstly, we need to explain that the new rules are not those of the BNIA,
but those of the INAO. I expect that it is quite difficult to understand, but
broadly speaking, the INAO is the organisation linked to the Government that
defines the rules concerning the Appellations d'Origine Contrôlées. Whereas
the BNIA is an association that concerns the Armagnac producers and negotiants
(the BNIA works for them), even if certain tasks (notably keeping records of
Armagnac stocks and movements) are entrusted to us by the State.
Moreover, our status as an Interprofession also signifies that we can all
together (producers and negotiants) make decisions that become laws. So to
come back to the question, the major points that have changed with the new
appellation rules are the following :
- Putting into place the Armagnac parcels : in other words, each producer
selects the parcels of land that he wishes to use for Armagnac production.
- Identification of operators and the production tools (parcels of land,
cellars, alambics): as with the parcels of land, each tool that has a rôle
in the production of Armagnac is identified and validated. Each stage of the
long process that transforms the grapes that have ripened on the Armagnac
'terroir' are equally validated.
- Maintaining the Baco grape : this is particularly important for the
producers in the Bas-Armagnac area (the zone where Baco is grown) but also
in a general way as it reminds us that armagnac is truly rich and with many
specificities due to the diversity of varieties used. Baco 22A is certainly
a grape that contributes to this diversity and richness.
- The creation of the Blanche appellation : we will talk about this later
as both Armagnac and the Blanche are 2 completely different products.
- The putting into place of an obligatory Agreement for the Blanche and
for Armagnacs that are aged : with this Agreement, the armagnac producers
and negotiants 'loop the loop', meaning that they are putting the final
touches to their desire to offer to the consumer the guarantee of a strict
production process, from the vine itself to the finished product. In this
way, Armagnac in the universe of all spirits, is the first to introduce such
a strict framework that reminds us that armagnac is not an industrial
product, but the fruit of an artisanal 'savoir-faire' (know-how) that is
rare and precious.
How important is the UK for Armagnac and do you think its influence as an
export market for you is increasing, decreasing or remaining stable?
The UK market is a major one for Armagnac. It is the first export market in
terms of volume and turnover. I also think that in terms of image, the UK
shines for the whole Anglo-Saxon world : The British people are certainly
among the best connoisseurs of wine and spirits in the world ; they know how
to find what is good and talk about it. It is incontestably a market that
carries much weight in developing all our export sales.
In your opinion, how important is the role of white Armagnac in raising
the profile of the region as a whole?
We really need to say BLANCHE rather than any other name as
it could be confusing. In fact, the BLANCHE should not be considered as a
white Armagnac, but more as a new eau-de-vie, facing the likes of vodka and
other white alcohols but with infinite superiority:
A grape base in the first instance, a production zone and strict production
conditions defined by the AOC, approved tastings before commercialisation ....
and a French product, Gascon even. An eau-de-vie from Gascony.
To come back to the question, I think that the BLANCHE has a double
interest: firstly it is one of the best witnesses that the Armagnac network is
a dynamic one, ready to launch a new product (or nearly, as the BLANCHE is the
original version of Armagnac).
Additionally, the work on the Blanche (regulations, technical and above
all, marketing) has benefited Armagnac in general ; whilst working on the
marketing of the BLANCHE we have fresh considerations, observations and new
ways of working that are also useful for Armagnac.
It has been said that Armagnac producers are very good at making Armagnac
but are not so skilled at marketing it. Is this fair - how are you marketing
your products in general and to the UK in particular?
This was perhaps true at a certain time : When spirits sold well, it was
certainly easier to do business and the question of marketing was less crucial
than today. At present, the Armagnacais know how to make an excellent, rare
and exceptional product (plus now they have decided to improve their methods)
and nowadays, more and more crusade on the same terms as the competition.
What are the advantages of Armagnac in comparison to Cognac, taking into
account the differences in grape varieties, distillation techniques etc?
I don't know whether we ask the question as to the advantages or the
qualities of a Bourgogne in comparison to a Bordeaux .... For the spirits
enthusiast, the pleasure is also in the diversity. For Cognac, but also for
Pure Malt, Single Malts and above all, many different Armagnacs, vintages,
armagnacs of 10, 15, 25 or even 30 .... this is what is interesting.
Armagnac knows all about diversity: diversity of terroirs, grape varieties,
distillation, but also the diversity of the brands, the houses, the domaines
.... all that go to make Armagnac almost unique, rare, exceptional and
INDISPENSABLE! If you suggest a Whisky or a Cognac from a well known brand to
a friend, a client, a reader or a consumer, its reassuring, but that is not
very original.
However, choose a particular Armagnac, a particular blend, or a particular
vintage and this shows the friend, client, reader or consumer that we are a
true connoisseur and that we want to share the pleasure of our discovery. It
makes me think of the largest and most beautiful top of the range refrigerator
that use the slogan 'SMEG: For those who know'. For Armagnac we wrote at one
time: 'Not the best known, but known by the best'. By 'the best', I believe
that we are talking about those that have a desire for pleasure with an
immoderate taste for happiness, for conviviality and for all the pleasures
life has to offer ..."
So, there you go. This is what makes Blanche different. Now we just have to
wait until we can taste it! Because it will only be commercially available in
2007 (writing this in November 2006).
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