BKWine Brief nr 128, April 2014

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Per Karlsson portrait Britt Karlsson portraitWinemakers in different countries face different problems. When we were in South Africa in March harvest was in full swing. Several times we had discussions on how to keep the baboons away from the vineyard.

It can be fun to see baboons while sitting safely in a bus or in a car. Not as fun to get the entire harvest gobbled up by ravenous animals who clearly know exactly when the grapes are perfectly ripe. And who, if not the baboon, choose the perfectly ripe grapes to munch on? Electric fencing does keep them away in some places but not even that is totally effective.

In Europe we have the wild boars that can cause havoc but if I had to choose I would probably rather meet a boar than a full grown baboon. They are actually quite frightening at close range and very intelligent.

In South Africa the harvest is more or less to an end, in Europe the growing season has just started. At least in France, with around a week to ten days’ head start compared to a normal year, thanks to the warm winter. With last year’s abysmal weather in memory – “in Bordeaux we had winter until June”, said Luc Peyronnet at Chateau Phelan-Segur – there are many fingers crossed in France that it will be a good season in 2014. Vintage variations may have their charm but when the harvest is more or less half of the normal volume, it is hard to see the attraction of it if you are a wine grower.

If you want to see up-close how the harvest will turn out then you should book yourself on one of our wine tours in the autumn. Two very classic destinations to choose from: Bordeaux and the Douro Valley. Plus two additional exceptional longer wine tours in the winter: South America and South Africa. Guaranteed once-in-a-lifetime experiences. Read more below !

And one more thing: Do visit our Facebook page, BKWine Magazine. And please “Like” it! Thank you very much.

Britt & Per

PS: Recommend to your friends to read the Brief!

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From the World of Wine

Grand Cru sold in Burgundy

grand cru burgundySo much money has probably never been paid for a vineyard, at least not in Burgundy. The company LVMH (Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy) recently bought Domaine du Clos des Lambrays in Morey-Saint-Denis for, according to Bourgogne Aujourd’hui, 101 million euros. Clos des Lambrays is an estate of over 10 hectares primarily consisting of 8.70 hectares of Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru.

This Grand Cru is almost a monopoly vineyard, i.e. a vineyard with only one owner, but not quite. Family estate Domaine Taupenot-Merme owns 430 square meters which corresponds to one ouvrée. Ouvrée is a measure used in Burgundy since the estates so often have very small holdings.
The purchase also included just under 2 hectares of Morey-Saint- Denis Villages, some premiers crus vineyards in Puligny-Montrachet, beautiful buildings and 40 000 bottles of Clos des Lambrays 2012 and 2013. Even so, we hesitate to call this a bargain price.

Clos des Lambrays was nominated Grand Cru late, not until 1981. Only the nomination of La Grande Rue in Vosne-Romanée is of later date (1991). And maybe Pommard soon will have its first Grand Cru.

Read more on bourgogneaujourdhui.com

High time to book your wine tour for the coming autumn and winter season

wine cellar riojaIt is now high time to book your wine tour for the autumn and to start thinking about winter wine touring. On the autumn program we have two spectacular classics: Bordeaux and the Douro Valley. In the winter we have to thoroughly unique tours to South America and to South Africa, both guaranteed to give you a wine and food and nature experience of a life-time. Details:

Book wine your tour NOW!

And don’t forget to “likeour Facebook page for wine travel!

Domaine Mouton and Château Mouton-Rothschild: David and Goliath all over again

At first we thought it was an April fool’s joke. But it was not published on the first of April, and it was not just one magazine that wrote about it, but several. So we do not think it is joke though we can hardly believe that it is true. Prestigious Château Mouton Rothschild in Bordeaux is suing a small estate called Domaine Mouton in Givry in the Côte Chalonnaise for trademark infringement. Mouton-Rothschild is said to have asked for 410,000 euros in damages.

This is so bizarre. Domaine Mouton in Givry has 15 hectares, makes a Burgundy wine that retails for around 16 euro and the name of the family has always been Mouton. How can anyone in their wildest imagination believe that a consumer would confuse this Burgundy with world-renowned Château Mouton-Rothschild that makes a Bordeaux wine that retails for around 400 euro a bottle? And how can they accuse Laurent Mouton for wanting to take advantage of Mouton-Rothschild’s notoriety?

We think it is a scandal, the way some of the big houses of Bordeaux and Champagne behave. They go too far in their quest to protect their brands. They might have resources and money in abundance to spend on lawyers. But a small producer like Domaine Mouton has not. Even if he is not forced to pay the damages, he cannot avoid attorney fees and we all know what lawyers cost. And if he would have to pay the 410 000 euro, God forbid, well, then that is probably the end of Domaine Mouton.

Dear reader, I regret that I can no longer afford the wines of Chateau Mouton Rothschild (and the other estates who bully others in similar ways), and perhaps neither can you, because if we could then we could at least boycott them.

Read more on thedrinksbusiness.com

Chardonnay remains a popular grape

chardonnay vineIn the U.S., people drink more and more wine. In 20 years, from 1993 to 2013, the volume of wine that Americans are buying doubled. The average American spends USD 8.06 per bottle of wine. The domestic wines dominate. Wines from California has a 57% market share in terms of volume and 64% by value.

Chardonnay is the most popular type of wine by a wide margin, followed by Cabernet and Merlot. Wines made from the Moscato and Malbec grapes and also red blends have increased in popularity recently.

Read more about drinking habits in the USA at wine-searcher.com.

Domaine de l’Hortus Grande Cuvée Blanc 2000, Vin de Pays de Val de Monferrand | Britt’s Wine of the Month

hortus blanc grand cuveeThis is a terrific wine that makes you glad that you sometimes keep your wines in the cellar for some time. Maybe we had not planned to keep this wine for 12 years. Because it is not obvious that a white Languedoc wine survive this long. But it was a winner and a pleasure to drink. Smooth but with fresh acidity, a little honey tone, some dried apricots and much intensity. Very good length. I gave it 19 points (out of 20) in the blind tasting before dinner. The wine was excellent with the dinner which was anise marinated salmon and Italian primeur potatoes and also with the different cheeses that followed. It was a very enjoyable Sunday dinner.

New owner for biodynamic Champagne Leclerc Briant

champagne leclerc briantChampagne Leclerc Briant in Epernay is one of the few biodynamic champagnes that exist. The house was owned by the family Leclerc Briant until recently. In 2012 it was sold to Frédéric Zeimett, originally from Champagne. He has worked for Champagne Moët & Chandon for 23 years, but he also has a worked in the Rhone Valley and the Loire Valley.

The bottles now have a new label that gives the champagne a more modern look, but the philosophy is the same. The new owner is not doing any radical changes. He will continue being biodynamic. The house currently has 7 hectares of its own and buys additional grapes from a dozen hand-picked growers who, of course, also grow their grapes biodynamically.

Champagne Leclerc Briant recently released its Brut 2006, a blanc de noir made of 77% Pinot Noir and 25% Pinot Meunier . The style is a little different compared to most other champagnes. It is slightly oxidized and has a pleasant nutty flavour. It is a savoury champagne that appeals to those who do not want their champagnes streamlined. The dosage is low.

Burgundy wine and food, a match made in heaven or not?

burgundy vineyardMatching food and wine may not be as complicated as we sometimes think. But certain combinations are better than others and sometimes it is worthwhile to think a little extra on what goes well together. And if the wines are from the classic region of Burgundy it is even more exciting.

Burgundy is not only known for its fine wines but also for its food. Many of the classic French dishes come from here, coq au vin, boeuf bourguignon, snails to name just a few. There are also some fabulous cheeses. Epoisse is the most famous but if you go to Burgundy do not miss our other favourites, citeaux, ami du chambertin and soumaintrain.

In conjunction with the Burgundy Day in Stockholm recently, BKWine’s Carl-Erik Kanne met with Michel Jamais over lunch. Read more about it here Matching Burgundy wines with food – Burgundy Master Class.

Vive la difference! Burt is there one between female and male winemakers?

chablis clotilde davenneA skilled winemaker is a skilled winemaker and it does not matter if it is a man or a woman. Or does it? Is a wine made by a female winemaker different? Probably not but nevertheless the Swedish importer Terrific Wines invited some top female winemakers for a seminar in Stockholm on the International Women’s Day March 8.

BKWine’s Anette Zellen Soderstrom investigates and reports on femininity and masculinity in wine: Are women better than men at making wine?, and tastes wine from, among others, Francoise Feuillat-Juillot from Côte Chalonnaise, Clotilde Davenne from Chablis and Giulia Negri from Barolo.

Quality wines from Terrasses du Larzac in Languedoc

languedoc landscapeTerrasses du Larzac is located in the northern part of the Languedoc region. Here there are some fabulous winemakers, many quite small but very ambitious.

David Furer has written a series of four articles on wines and producers in the Terrasses du Larzac. He has met, among others, high quality producers Mas Cal Demoura, Mas de l’Écriture, Mas Jullien, Mas de Chimères and Domaine du Pas de l’Escalette.

Read his four articles here :

Italian sparkling from Ferrari

ferrari sparklingItalian sparkling is getting more and more known all over the world. Prosecco is incredibly popular, and for many a cheaper alternative to champagne. Prosecco is mostly done with the second fermentation in tank. High-quality sparkling wines from Italy, made by the traditional method, that is the second fermentation in the bottle, have also increased in popularity in recent years.

They come from districts like Franciacorta and Trentino. A producer of such wines is Ferrari. BKWine’s Roland Eriksson reports from a meeting with Marcello Lunelli from the family that owns Ferrari.

A tasting with Marilisa Allegrini

allegrini wine cellarAllegrini is one of the most famous wine families in the Valpolicella region. They make Amarone, of course, but also fantastic Valpolicella wines like La Grola and La Poja. It is interesting to note that the family since 2002 also makes wine by the Tuscan coast, in Bolgheri. They make, for instance, a wine from the exciting white grape vermentino.

BKWine met Marilisa when she recently was on brief visit to Stockholm. BKWine’s Peter Cronström reports: New wines and old wines from Allegrini; La Poja, amarone, Bolgheri etc.

New vintage of Entre deux Mers – who will win?

entre deux mersBKWine was in the jury when the 2013 vintage of wines from the Entre deux Mers was tasted and evaluated recently in Paris. Entre deux Mers is an appellation in Bordeaux for dry white wines, often very refreshing and sometimes a bit aromatic. The grapes are sauvignon blanc and sémillon.

BKWine’s Per Karlsson was part of the jury. He also gives you his personal choice of top wines: The best wines from the new vintage from Entre deux Mers.

Portugal, a lot more than port

portugal vineyardsPortugal produces great red and white wines, although many still most associate the country with port wine. Here are unpretentious but still characterful wines from Alentejo and high-quality wines from the Douro Valley. And in between these two are a number of districts to discover.

The Portuguese Wine Day in Stockholm was an opportunity to learn a few things of Portuguese wines. BKWine’s Anette Zellen Soderstrom reports in two articles about Portuguese wines. The first one New discoveries in the Portuguese vineyards and the second one on cellar rarities: Exclusive finds in the Portuguese wine cellar and Swedish gastronomy.

Are cheap “amarone wannabes” a problem?

amarone classicoAmarone in Sweden, Norway and probably other countries as well, is a success story. Rarely has an exclusive, expensive wine become so popular among all sorts of wine consumers. And as always, when something is popular, others want to take advantage of the trend. Maybe even try to offer the same thing but cheaper. It’s just that same thing cheaper is not possible. But that does not really matter. Today we have a variety of wines that are trying to imitate amarone. For example, today you will find a variety of different appassimento wine, from different grapes and from different regions of Italy. Both in bottle and in bag in box. Some are really cheap. Is the appassimento method losing its meaning? Should a wine lover worry about it?

We received an interesting question in an email from a person in the wine business: “What do we think about this development? Do we see a problem with all these new ‘cheap Amarones’?” Interesting question! Here is the answer Is it a problem with all these new “cheap amarones”?

Burgundy challenges the New World

burgundy wine cellarThe name of the grape name on the label in France? This was rare in the past, except in Alsace, but now you can see it also in other regions. In Burgundy they realize that sometimes it is even necessary, at least for the entry level wines.

You cannot be afraid to change if you want to survive the competition from the New World. BKWine’s Carl-Erik Kanne reports from a large Burgundy tasting and he is impressed by both the wines and the ambition of the producers.

He tastes wine from, among others, Domaine Chevalier Pere & Fils in Ladoix, Anne Parent in Pommard, Henri de Villamont in Savigny-lès-Beaune, Domaine Faiveley in Nuits-Saint-George and Domaine Thiery Mothe in Chablis. Read about the tasting here: “New Burgundy” answers to the challenges from New World wines. Good or not?

Dalmore Constellation Collection: Unique vintage whisky

dalmore constellationThis is indeed a very unique whisky. And the prices are incredibly high, so I would say that our reporter Roland Eriksson was quite lucky to be able to taste these single cask vintage whiskies from 1992 down to 1969. And to do it together with the Master Blender Richard “The Nose” Paterson himself.

Read what Roland says about this amazing tasting here: Unique “vintage” whisky with age: Dalmore Constellation Collection.

Wines from Washington State

Washington State in the northwest corner of the United States is the country’s second-largest wine producer. They make good wines with for instance Riesling and Gewurztraminer but also from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay. But the wines are not easy to come by outside the United States. BKWine’s Peter Cronström went to a tasting organized by USA Specialist Fine Wines and tasted an interesting range of Washington wines.

Read about Peter’s favourites: Six wineries and 21 wines from Washington.

Top wines from Rheingau with Theresa Breuer from Georg Breuer

georg breuer winesGerman wine is not just for drinking on the terrace. Especially Riesling is a wonderfully versatile grape that is well suited for different types of food. And as a Riesling can be anything from totally dry to noble sweet the combinations with food are endless. One high-quality and well-known German producer, who masters this multifaceted grape brilliantly, visited Sweden recently. It was Theresa Breuer from Georg Breuer in Rheingau. She was to present the 2013 vintage of the popular wine GB Sauvage Riesling. But she did bring some other goodies as well.

BKWine’s Anette Zellén Söderström met Theresa over lunch and here is her report: 2013 and the summits of Rheingau with Theresa Breuer from Georg Breuer.

10 quality Champagne producers

champagne colletDo you find it hard to choose which champagne to buy? BKWine’s Ulf Bengtsson tasted a great number of different champagnes during the Champagne Day at the Grand Hotel in Stockholm recently. And he picked out the ten Champagne houses he thinks that you should not miss.

He tasted De Saint Gall, Bollinger, Pierre Pieters, Philipponnat and many others. Read about his 10 favourite houses here: 10 champagne houses you should not miss.

Do we like the wines of the Pacific North West?

The wine organisations of Oregon and Washington State wanted to find out what the Swedes think about their wines. So the arranged a tasting that they called ”The Judgement of Sweden”.

BKWine’s Anette Zellén Söderström was “in the jury” and she enjoyed the wines very much. She recommends some of her favourites: Do they make good wine in Washington and Oregon? Indeed! [divider_flat]

Vina Vik, Norwegian money and French ambition make world class wines in Chile

Sometimes one plays around with the thought “what would I do if I had lots and lots of money?” Perhaps you do too.

Alexander Vik from Norway did not need to play in dreams. Instead he recruited a top class winemaker, Patrick Valette, and bought 4000 hectare of land in Chile. Together they have the ambition to make one of the best wines in South America at the Vina Vik winery.

We were there this winter and tasted both the wines and the delicious food. A story in text, photos, and videos: Viña Vik vineyards, splendour and magnificence in Chile.

If that sounds interesting or tempting then perhaps you should come on next year’s wine tour to Chile and Argentina where we will probably drop in and say hello again at Vina Vik.


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