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Welcome to the BKWine Brief nr 34, April 2006
This Brief is a bit different from the usual. Fewer news bites and some longer sections. And a travel special.

Travel

It is high time to plan for the autumn wine travel. Take a look at the tours that I have planned for the season. I hope one of the tours will be to your taste.

Top Bordeaux –  over the top?

This period of the year is traditionally full of news about the “primeur” tastings of the latest vintage in Bordeaux. You will find links to some of the most interesting commentaries in the Brief. I did not have the opportunity to go the tastings in Bordeaux myself this year unfortunately. A lot of the commentaries on the 2005 vintage indicate that it is a very exceptional vintage. But many also fear that prices will shoot up (from an already high level), and some complain about “profiteering” winemakers: “they really shouldn’t raise the prices so much” and so on. I say: let them raise the prices as much as they want! If they price is too high for you (or me) – don’t buy! Apparently there are people willing to pay the high prices that are demanded. If you think the price goes up too much – buy some other wines. There are many, many wines made in France (and other countries) today of excellent or outstanding quality but that do not have the famous name and label of the top Bordeaux wines and that you can buy at very reasonable prices. Buy those wines instead of overpriced Bordeaux. (There are also many “lesser” Bordeaux wines that are not expensive at all and very good.) No reason to complain today when there are so much good wines around. By the way, the same can be said for many other highly acclaimed wines from other regions: Burgundy, California, Spain, Italy,… Don’t complain about the prices. Buy something else instead, that is less costly and just as good! Read the BKWine Brief and we will tell you what our recommendations are.

What do you think? Comment in the BKWine Brief Blog (click this link).

And don't forget:

bulletRecommend the Brief to others. Forward it to wine loving friends!
bulletGo on a wine tour!

Britt



All images are clickable!

All previous issues of the Brief are here: Archive

 
News from BKWine

Wine Tours

bulletSeptember 27 – October 1: The Northern Rhône Valley

If you love the Syrah grape, this is the trip for you! The northern part of the Rhône Valley is mostly about powerful red wines but we will also get to know the regions delicious, full bodied whites. More info here!
 
bulletOctober 11 - 15: Bordeaux at harvest time

This trip to Bordeaux is just at the end of the harvest season (though you can never predict in advance exactly when harvest will be). For a wine lover a trip to Bordeaux is a must! Here you find not only world famous châteaux and world famous wines but also a lot of new exciting initiatives. More info here!

For info, contact me on winebrief@bkwine.com or +33 (0)6 80 45 35 70 or check the site: http://www.bkwine.com/wine_tours/wine_tours.htm

Finnish Language Wine Tours - Viinimatkoja Ranskan viinialueille!

 Tours on the schedule (in Finnish):

bullet20.9 - 24.9 2006: Viinimatkan kohteena Bordeaux

Bordeaux on viininystävälle ehdoton matkakohde! Siellä ovat tunnetut isot viinitilat, klassiset viinit mutta myös paljon uutta perinteisen rinnalla. Kolmena päivänä vierailemme sekä kuuluisilla arvotiloilla että pienemmillä erittäin laadukkailla tiloilla jotta pääsemme tutuiksi myös itse viininviljelijän kanssa. Paina tästä!
 
bullet4.10 - 8.10 2006: Viiniä ja tryffeleitä Bourgognessa !

Nyt sinulla on mahdollisuus oppia tuntemaan Bourgognen maailmankuulut kylät, viinitilat ja tuottajat. Sekä heidän ainutlaatuinen erikoisuutensa : Bourgogne- tryffeli ! Paina tästä!

For info, contact me on winebrief@bkwine.com or +33 (0)6 80 45 35 70 or check the site: http://www.bkwine.com/suomi/viinimatkoja/viinimatkoja.htm

You can find the pictures on  www.bkwine.com/wine_pictures/photo_galleries.htm

 
Recommendations
A selection of what we have tried, tasted or visited recently.

 □  Producers

Corsica!
Corsica is making great progress in wine. Quality is still sometimes unpredictable (but where is that not the case?) but you can find plenty of good wines, both white, red and sweet.

Patrimonio, in northern Corsica, is home to many of the best Corsican wines. The chalky soil is good for wine growing, the winds are less strong compared to some other places. There is no co-operative on this part of the island. The 32 wineries share the 450 hectares. You can also find sweet white wines from this part of Corsica but then they are called Muscat du Cap Corse.

Niellucciu is the dominant grape in Patrimonio. It is a grape variety that is related to the Sangiovese, found in Tuscany, which is sometimes quite evident. The vintage 2002 from Domaine Gentile has exactly the characteristics that I find typical in Corsican wines: full-bodied, with a fair amount of tannin and a hint of “animal” (game, leather…). Domaine Gentile’s white wine is made from Vermentino (called Rolle in Provence) and is dry and refreshing with a contrasting earthy or minerally character. In general, Corsican wines actually have more elegance than one might expect from a district so far south. Perhaps it is the high altitude and the strong winds that moderate the otherwise high temperatures.

A relative newcomer in Patrimonio is Clos Signadore. They made their first vintage in 2001. Eresi 2005, made from 80% Niellucciu and 20% Grenache, is a quaffable, easygoing wine while the cuvée prestige, called simply Clos, with 100% Niellucciu is more typically Corsican with flavours of spices and herbs and even juniper. Quite elegant and very good.

Another (new) recommended producer in Patrimonio is Yves Leccia, making wine on 12 hectares. He makes a very attractive white Vermentino with quite a lot of “fat” (‘gras’ in French, giving the wine a round, soft and full-bodied character) but also a fresh acidity. He uses no oak and he does not let the wine go through the malolactic fermentation. He makes several red wines, e.g. “Patrimonio 2004” from 90% Niellucciu and 10% Grenache. Here the relation to Sangiovese is very apparent: a certain dryness and aromas of cherry stones, a high acidity and a good body.

Jean-Paul Gentile, Domaine Gentile, AC Patrimonio
Clos Signadore, AC Patrimonio
Yves Leccia, Domaine d'E Croce, AC Patrimonio
Click here for address and more recommendations.

Read more recommendations on restaurants and winebars on my Restaurant and Wine Bar page.

 
News from the Wine World
Wine Travel Special

Now is the time to start thinking about how to brighten up the autumn season so I thought it would be a good idea to give you some inspiration. Here are some details about the next season’s wine tours in English:

040514-110-CRW_1072_JFRThe Northern Rhône Valley, September 27 – October 1
If you love the Syrah grape this is the trip for you! In the northern Rhône you have some of the most highly acclaimed and famous Rhône appellations: Côte Rôtie and Hermitage. But there are also many very interesting producers in the other districts, e.g. in Cornas, Saint Joseph and Crozes-Hermitage; not to forget the whites with aromatic Condrieu made from Viognier at the top of the hierarchy. More info here.

040916-131-3191Bordeaux at harvest time, October 11-15
Ripe grapes hanging in the vineyard. Or must bubbling in the winery. (You can never quite predict.) Lots of activity and still warm, late-summer temperatures. A trip to Bordeaux is a must (no pun intended) for a wine lover. We will visit some famous châteaux and also some of the most interesting and exciting new initiatives. More info here.

Book now!

Book now! Call me on +33-6 80 45 35 70; or on skype: bkwine; or send me an email.

Wine Tours in Finnish

Four our Finnish speaking readers we offer two wine tours in the autumn:

040917-133-339620.9 - 24.9 2006: Viinimatkan kohteena Bordeaux
Bordeaux on viininystävälle ehdoton matkakohde! Siellä ovat tunnetut isot viinitilat, klassiset viinit mutta myös paljon uutta perinteisen rinnalla. Kolmena päivänä vierailemme sekä kuuluisilla arvotiloilla että pienemmillä erittäin laadukkailla tiloilla jotta pääsemme tutuiksi myös itse viininviljelijän kanssa. Paina tästä!

030806-1-k080-00184.10 - 8.10 2006: Viiniä ja tryffeleitä Bourgognessa !
Nyt sinulla on mahdollisuus oppia tuntemaan Bourgognen maailmankuulut kylät, viinitilat ja tuottajat. Sekä heidän ainutlaatuinen erikoisuutensa : Bourgogne- tryffeli ! Paina tästä!

Book now!

Book now! Call me on +33-6 80 45 35 70; or on skype: bkwine; or send me an email.

News

Higher Gastronomic Education
Institut des Hautes Etudes du Goût de la Gastronomie et les Arts de la Table
Behind this long name hides an interesting education that was created two years ago in the capital of the Champagne district, Reims. The institute is formally part of the Reims University and has backing from solid partners such as Remy Cointreau, Alain Ducasse, Château Margaux, Grand Marnier, Michelin, Cordon Blue and others. The program is primarily aimed at professionals in the food and drinks sector who want a high level perspective and understanding of gastronomy and taste. It consists of two modules of two intense weeks each with technical and economic lectures by leaders in their field. There are also some “pedagogical meals” where the theories are applied. The program is bilingual English and French. Students come with very different backgrounds. This year’s students were e.g. a sommelier and consultant from Sweden, a Japanese journalist, a French cook and restaurant owner, a communications specialist in the wine trade, an American patisserie chef and guest house owner, a Norwegian cooking school headmaster,… BKWine sat in on a few lectures and can testify that:

bulletthe professors are of a very high standard (many are “the famous names” in their speciality)
bulletit is not about learning how to cook but rather about understanding why things taste as it does and why things should be prepared in certain ways, and understanding the contexts
bulletyou need some kind of solid background in gastronomy to really benefit from the program

For more information
www.iheggat.com
or contact Ragnar Fridriksson
Ambassador for Hautes Etudes du Goût
Ph: +33-(0)3 26 05 66 28
Mob:+33-(0)6 64 22 33 21
email: ragnar-at-neuf-dot-fr

The Lurton Brothers looking for a vineyard in Portugal
François and Jacques Lurton are already successful winemakers in several wine regions: Languedoc, Chile, Argentina, Spain,… Their next project is, apparently, Portugal. They have already made one wine in the Duoro Valley in partnership with a local producer, but now they are looking for their own place. Vitisphere.com

Bordeaux 2005
040330-2-71-0020The primeur tastings – the one week wine jamboree for the trade in Bordeaux to present the latest vintage – are now over. Everyone seems to agree that 2005 is an outstanding vintage, and that it will be an expensive vintage. Expectations are turned up for substantial price increases. It will be interesting to see what happens when asking prices are announced later this year. Here are some interesting comments about the wines:

bulletThe tastings day-by-day, BBR.com
bulletTastings Predict 2005 as Best Bordeaux Vintage in Half Century, Bloomberg.com
(``It's a huge vintage,'' [said Gad Petterson, a buyer for Systembolaget], sniffing a glass of Chateau Talbot appreciatively. ``It has good balance. It's unusually even across Bordeaux. I've tasted all the wines.'')
bulletNew 2005 Bordeaux Wine Prices May Challenge Records, Buyers Say, Bloomberg.com
bulletBordeaux 2005: stats are all that’s left, Decanter.com
(“At Chateau Teyssier in St Emilion, Jonathan Maltus was picking Merlot at 15.5% alcohol – two degrees higher than normal”)
bulletBordeaux 2005 Vintage Report by Jasper Morris, BBR.com
bulletBordeaux en Primeur 2005 by Roger Voss, The Wine Enthusiast
bulletBordeaux 2005 – Purity With Power, and also A Question of Extraction, by Jancis Robinson in FT.com

Get a Master in wine – wine program in Angers
040202-k256-0018xThe Ecole Supérieure d' Agriculture in Angers in the Loire Valley offers a study program that leads to a Master of Science (MSc) in Wine. It is a mixture of general wine knowledge, technology, finance and marketing designed for people who want to work in the wine trade (such as importers). They already have many international students from e.g. Peru, Argentina, Chile, Brazil, South Africa, New Zeeland, Thailand, China, Spain, Slovenia,…. but are actively encouraging applicants from other European countries. More info: www.vintagemaster.com

The UK Labour party buys wine for £1 million
According to The Independent, the British government under Tony Blair has bought wine for approximately £1 million since Blair took power in 1997.

Château Montrose sold for 140 million euro
Château Montrose, a 70 ha property, Grand Cru Classé in St Estèphe (Medoc, Bordeaux), has changed hands. Martin & Olivier Bouygues bought the chateau and vineyards from the Charmolue family for some 170 million euro. Bouygues controls one of France’s biggest companies, carrying the same name, that is active in telecoms, construction and other business. Mergerstat.com

--> Discover Bordeaux. Travel with BKWine. More info here! <--

Russia blocks wine imports from Georgia and Moldova
Wine prices are expected to go up with 30% in Russia after the government outlawed wine imports from Georgia and Moldova. The ban has been introduced for health reasons according to the government but some mean that it is actually for political reasons. Novosti and The State

Europe’s best sommelier to be crowned on June 18
The final of the Trophée Ruinart, popularly called the European championship for sommeliers, with be held at the Théatre des Champs Elysées in Paris on June 18.

Government owned V&S vin & Sprit increases profits to 417 million SEK for Q1-06
V&S Vin & Sprit AB, owned by the Swedish government, has announced improved results for the first quarter. The business area V&S Absolut Spirits (including one of the world’s best selling vodkas) increased sales with 20%. Total turnover increased by 16% to 2 320 million SEK and operating results grew by 31% to 417 million SEK. More info on www.vsgroup.se. Curiously, the Swedish government is simultaneously campaigning for that people should drink less domestically.

Wine crisis in Australia
The price of wine exported from Australia has gone down with 30% according to a report by the consultant Deloitte. It is feared that a continued trend of lower export prices of cheap bulk wines will have catastrophic effects for the Australian wine industry. Read more on Decanter.com. Production substantially exceeds consumption for Australian wines. This year’s harvest is estimated to reach 1.4 million litres. Together with accumulated reserves it is expected that the surplus will reach 800 million litres of unsold wine… Which certainly will not help the price levels. Read more on News.co.au

American research in enology and viticulture
The American Society for Enology and Viticulture has just had its annual meeting. Two research papers were given prizes: “Best Viticulture Paper”: Bud Microclimate and Fruitfulness in Vitis vinifera L.. (pdf 740kB) by Luis A. Sanchez and Nick K. Dokoozlian, and “Best Enology Paper”: Validation of a Solid-Phase Micro Extraction Method for Headspace Analysis of Wine Aroma Compounds (pdf 200kB) by Karen L. Howard, James H. Mike, and Roland Riesen
http://www.asev.org/

Portuguese wine with screw cap
Perhaps like swearing in church? Portugal is the world’s biggest producer of natural cork (made from bark from the cork oak tree). Miguel Champalimaud, owner of Quinta do Cotto in Duoro has announced his intention to be the first Portuguese wine producer to bottle wines with screw cap. But the reason that he gives for switching is not problems with corked wines. It is price. He estimates that he will save 20 cent per bottle with screw cap. Reuters.com

Have a news item you'd like to see here or have a news tip? Send me an email: winebrief@bkwine.com

 
Link Tips
Some wine sites that you might enjoy visiting:
bulletWhat Randall Grahm thinks about terroir (Grahm is the cult wine maker in California that created Bonny Doon), on AppellationAmerica.com
bulletMore about terroir: ”Are People Part of Wine’s Terroir?” on californiawineweb.com

Send us suggestions on sites to be included here: winebrief@bkwine.com

 
Agenda

- - France:

bullet

22-24/6, Loire: Rendez-vous de Fontevraud, wine competition with Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc. Info rdv-fontevraud2006-at-vinsvaldeloire.fr

bullet

3-5/7, Bordeaux, 6-7/7, Montpellier: VI International Congress on Viticultural terroirs. Info : www.enitab.fr (NEW)

- - Sweden:

bullet

14/10, Östersund: Munskänkarna Östersund Wine Fair, www.munskankarna-z.se

- - UK, Belgium, Switzerland, Spain, Denmark,...:

bullet

20/5, New York:  Wine auction “The Magificent Cellar of Russell H. Frye”, Sotheby's (NEW)

bullet

23-25/5 2006, Hong Kong: Vinexpo Asia-Pacific, www.vinexpo.fr

bullet

28-31/5-06, Jerez de la Frontera: Vinoble 2006, wine exhibition for fortified and sweet wines: www.vinoble.com

bullet

10/6, New York: Wine auction “Finest and Rarest Wines”, Sotheby's (NEW)

bullet

21/6, London: wine auction “Finest and Rarest Wines, Spirits and Vintage Port”, Sotheby's (NEW)

bullet

25-30/6, Logrono, Spain: XXIX World Congress on Grapevine and Wine. Info :www.oiv2006esp.org (NEW)

bullet

29/6, London: wine auction “A Magnificent Bordeaux Cellar in aid of The Charles-Albert Frère Foundation”, Sotheby's (NEW)

bullet

16/9 2006, Copenhagen: Rhône Wine festival, www.thewinecompany.dk

Wine auction agendas:

bullet Sotheby's
bullet Christie's
bullet Bruun Rasmussen (Denmark)
bullet Thomas Høiland (Denmark)

Something we've missed? Send us suggestions for events to be added here: winebrief@bkwine.com 

 
Post Scriptum
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Copyright © Britt Karlsson, BKWine
www.bkwine.com
info@bkwine.com

 




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