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Swedish version available here (click this link).

Welcome to the BKWine Brief nr 74, September 2009
 

Click for the new
Wine Tour program!

 

Click to recommend
to a friend!

 

The reports we’ve had from various vineyards are generally positive to very positive to outright jubilant. The growing season has mostly been excellent with good weather. Not much disease or other problems (even if there’s been some). So, in short, everything promises very well:

Philippe Bernard, Clos Saint Louis in Côtes de Nuits: “Our harvest started on September 12, a bit earlier than normal. The year has been overall good. Good winter, good spring, good summer, even if we’ve had a few problems with diseases. August was very sunny and warm and the grapes are very healthy. 2009 will be an excellent year for us.”

Champagne Duval-Leroy is also busy harvesting at the moment. Carol Duval-Leroy criss-crosses around champagne to visit the 120 (!) different presses they use. She confirms that the grapes are of very good quality: “I am very satisfied with this year’s harvest, we have healthy grapes with good sugar levels”.

Chablis is also in the middle of the harvest even if some growers have not yet started. Domaine Jean-Claude Courtault in Lignorelles was just about to start when we visited and Stéphanie Courtault confirms that it looks very promising.

Languedoc: “excellent quality, a bit less quantity than normal, perfect weather” says Domaine Rives Blanques, Limoux.

In the Rioja, reporting just before the harvest: promises very well but a very hot August blocked the phenolic ripeness. There’s a risk for some imbalances from that but if it is kept under control it will be a very good year.

Alentejo, southern Portugal: “overall good quality, some parcels will produce outstanding quality grapes” says Paolo Soares at Herdade da Malhadinha Nova.

Sud-Ouest: “Outstanding. Perfect. On par with 2005 in the whole region”, confirms Fabrice Durou at Château de Gaudou in Cahors.

We’ve now finished reading the final proofs of our new book. It’s been a very exciting project and hopefully we have now adjusted the last comma in the manuscript. It’s been particularly interesting since it is a wine book of a kind that is really missing, we think. There is really not much like it at all on the wine book market today. But I guess we’ll hear from reviewers and readers if they agree on that. If all goes according to plan it will be launched sometimes in mid November. What it’s about? Well, well keep that a secret until the launch has been decided.

This time of year is busy-busy with trips all round. Last week we’ve been to Champagne, Chablis and Burgundy. This week it’ll be Languedoc, cognac (!), and the Rhône Valley/Provence. Next week is Bordeaux and Alsace. But we’re two to share the things.

In a few weeks time we will also announce next springs ‘public’ travel program in English. We’ve just launched our Scandinavian schedule which includes Truffles & Wine in February, South African Wine & Food in March, Three Classics (Champagne, Chablis and Burgundy) as well as Bordeaux in April, and Tuscany, it’s Wine & Food in May.

And we also do custom tours both for private parties, travel agents, and professionals (importers, win trade, educational etc).

Get in touch if you want to know more.

Britt & Per

PS: Recommend to your friends to read the Brief or forward it to them !

More on wine:
bullet Guest writers on BKWine.com
bullet Wine videos: BKWine TV
bullet Wine photography


 Britt

 
Per

 All previous issues
of the Brief are here:
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News from BKWine

Autumn 2009 wine tours
bulletOctober 14-18: Bordeaux Confidential Châteaux Wine Tour

050526-203-0337In Bordeaux you find world famous châteaux and world famous wines but also a lot of new exciting initiatives (less famous but maybe more important for the future of Bordeaux!) and young enthusiastic wine makers. On this trip we will visit both some big, famous Grand Cru Classé-châteaux and smaller ones that are less known, but very quality conscious. More info on this wine tour to Bordeaux.

Custom wine tours

bf17-403-0396We also make custom designed wine tours – on-demand tours for you and a group of friends, for your company (maybe to scout new winegrowers?), for a special event… We can combine winery visits and wine touring with other activities: gastronomic workshops, visit to an oyster farm, truffles hunting, cheese making, and more. We’ve done tours for wine clubs, for sommelier educations, for corporate events, for wine importers, for wine course study groups… just to mention a few.

You'll get a tour designed exactly according to your requirements and tastes, made by one of the most experienced wine people in the business. We personally visit some 200 wineries and taste thousands of wines every year; we write on wine for various wine magazines (we had more than 30 articles published last year); in 2007 we published a ground breaking book on the wine of the Languedoc and this year we have another one coming. And we have organised hundreds of wine tours over the years.

 More info on the BKWine wine tours here!

Wine tours in Finnish
bulletNovember 4-8: Languedoc

More info on the Finnish wine tours here: Viinimatkoja

 
Recommendations
A selection of what we have tried, tasted or visited recently.

 □  Producers

Château Villars, Fronsac, Bordeaux
Fronsac is not as famous as its illustrious neighbour Pomerol. But it would deserve to be. It is pretty rolling hills landscape, much nicer than the flat land in Pomerol. And the wines from the best chateaux are excellent classic clarets in style. In addition to the quality the have the great advantage of being affordable. Fifteen of the more dynamic properties have created an association that they call Expression Fronsac. Their idea is to market the Fronsac wines internationally with a joint effort. One of the participating chateaux is Château Villars where the charming Thierry Gaudie makes elegant wines. He uses more cabernet franc than what is the norm; a grape that he says is needed and necessary to balance the merlot and to make the wines more interesting. He wants to enhance the expression of terroir in his wines and does not use much new oak. Chateau Villars 2005 has a very good structure with soft tannins. “2005 resembles the legendary 1961” says Thierry. His other cuvée, Charmes de Villars, is easy drinking – the first vintage was 2006. Interestingly he uses American oak for Charmes.
Click here for address and more recommendations.

Domaine l’Oustal Blanc, La Livinière, Minervois, Languedoc
We’ve stopped counting all the exciting wineries we discover in the Languedoc. But among the interesting ones there are some that stick in memory and stand out. L’Oustal Blanc in Minervois is one of those. The owner is called Claude Fonquerle. He is a very skilled winemaker and often quite unorthodox. Several of his wines are made without the AOC Minervois because he doesn’t agree with the appellation rules. “K”, for example, is made from 100% carignan and is a Vin de Table (so it can’t say carignan on the label at the moment – but rules are changing). It’s made from 35 year old vines, so there’s nothing simple about this wine. The wines Claude make have both elegance and finesse. And tasting them one cannot help feeling a certain resemblance to (or inspiration from) other wine regions. And quite correctly so – Claude worked for ten years in Châteauneuf-du-Pape and is fascinated by Burgundy. His different cuvees, all with names inspired my musical words, are excellent. His light and elegant Naïck for example, or the very well structured Giocoso. And of course the full-bodied and well balanced Prima Donna.
Click here for address and more recommendations.

Read about more recommended producers on the site: Favourite Producers

 □  Wine of the Month

Criteria: an interesting wine (not too cheap) and one that you can enjoy with dinner or friends (not too expensive). And very good!

This month’s wine by Åsa: Chianti Rufina DOCG 2006 Fattoria Cerreto Libri
A spicy wine with long after-taste. On the palate you have distinct notes of violet, warm and ripe black currants and a touch of vanilla. The colour is deep red, with flashes of ruby if the light is right. It has an astonishing long after taste. It’s made from 90% sangiovese and 10% canaiolo. It is macerated in concrete vats. Only natural yeasts are used. It is aged for 18 months in barrel and four months in bottle before release. The producer is a small bio-dynamic winery not far from the village Rufina, just north of Florence. They make some 8000 bottles of this wine. Approximate price: 13 euro. www.cerretolibri.it
 

Read more recommendations on restaurants and wine bars on my Restaurant and Wine Bar page.

 
News from the Wine World
Calling all wine bloggers: soon time for the European Wine Bloggers Conference
The European Wine Bloggers Conference takes place on the last weekend of October. It is a unique occasion to meet wine bloggers from all over Europe, and even beyond. More than a dozen countries will be represented and the organisers are expecting upwards to a hundred participants. Apart from networking participants can learn about blogging techniques and technology, marketing, video, monetization and much more. Plus, of course, many occasions to taste excellent wines and visit wineries, either during the conference or at the pre- and post-conference events with visits to wine regions in Portugal. More information here: http://winebloggersconference.org/europe/. An event not to miss for the dedicated wine blogger – plus it would be nice to meet some of you in real life in Portugal! You can get a taste of how it will be in our Wine Bloggers Conference teaser slide show.

Can you trust wine competition medals?
Is it a sign of quality if a wine has been give a medal in a wine competition? That’s the question that Robert T Hodgson asked himself, and decided to investigate. His analysis, based on 4000 wines entered in 13 different Californian wine competitions, showed that, no, it’s not a reliable sign. His conclusion is based on that if a wine wins a medal in one competition it is not a reliable indication of that it is likely to wine in another competition. So, the medals seem to be given without much consistency between wine competitions. if you want to know more you can read the full article published by the American Association of Wine Economists: An Analysis of the Concordance Among 13 U.S. Wine Competitions. But the study is, we would say, based on the wrong assumption - that there is a neutral and general "scale" for the "quality" of wine. But that is not the case. Wine is a matter of taste and very subjective. On the other hand, what one can say is that if a wine has won a medal in a competition, at least someone has liked it.

Colours and shaps on labels; Organic in Italy; Emilia-Romagna
Three other reports (working papers) have recently been published by the American Association of Wine Economists, all of the interesting, if a bit specialised. All are available for free on the AAWE site:
- Message on the bottel: Colours and shapes of wine labels
- Non-conventional viticulture as a viable system: A case study in Italy
- The value of designations of origin in Emilia-Romagna

Photographing wine bottles
While researching some other things I stumbled over an old post by Spittoon.biz:  How To Photograph Wine Bottles - 10 tips. Considering the quality of the bottle shots you sometimes see in blogs this is definitely a post that some bloggers could benefit from reading.

A wine cinematographer disappears: Vininews
At least figuratively speaking. Vininews was a site that published video interviews and reportage from vineyards and wine regions on their site Vininews. But the latest message from them said that they are closing down the site. A great pity. One wonders why. Too ambitious? Anyway, one can find some consolation in the (rather more amateurish) wine videos on BKWine TV.

The difference between winemaking in Bordeaux and Burgundy
There are very few vignerons who own vineyards both in Bordeaux and in Burgundy. One of the happy few is Eduard Labruyère who owns Domaine Jacques Pieur in Burgundy and Chateau Rouget in Pomerol. Jane Anson has interviewed him on his experiences from the two regions. ”Burgundy is more about feeling that you should do things a certain way, while in Bordeaux you know that you have to do it because the university researchers have told you.” The whole article is very interesting and can be found on Jane Anson's blog The New Bordeaux

Rich and famous and winemaker
”How do you make a small fortune from wine? – You start with a big fortune.” So goes the story. Many rich people (though not always famous) like the thought of owning a vineyard. Apparently. Chateau Latour, as an example, is owned by François Pinault, one of France’s richest person who also own a telecom operator, TV channels, construction companies etc. More well known (at least in wine circles) is Bernard Arnault who (part-)owns Chateau Cheval Blanc and Yquem. Challenges, a French business magazine (obvious from it’s name, isn’t it?), recently listed the top French fortunes cum - “winemakers”. Read the details on the blog of Cesar Compadre/Sud-Ouest

How much (or how little) wine in Champagne?
There have been lots of discussions in champagne this year on how much the growers will be permitted to harvest. Curiously, the limit is not set until the beginning of September. Wit the crash in champagne sales the big houses wanted to limit the yield to 7500 kg/ha, compared to 13 000 kg/ha last year. Almost halving harvest volume. They fear a glut of champagne, falling prices, loss of the exclusive aura around the bubbly etc. Smaller producers were keener on keeping the yield higher, perhaps more concerned about this year’s revenue. The result was a compromise: the maximum yield was set to 9700 kg/ha. But as often is the case, this is not the whole story. On top of that, there is an allowance for 4300 kg/ha to be set aside for the “reserve” wine, theoretically used to even out years with lower yields. So, in total we then have a yield of 14,000 kg/ha. Why do they count in kg/ha instead of hectolitres/ha as everyone else in France? Don’t know. If you make the calculation 9700 kg/ha is the same as 62 hl/ha and 14,000 kg/ha represents a hefty yield of almost 100 hl/ha. Perhaps that’s why? Read more: business.timesonline.co.uk  One cannot help being amazed by this blatant price fixing. It is not to improve the quality that the yields are restricted (although that might actually be a good idea). Rather, it is simply in order to artificially inflate the prices so that the champagne becomes more expensive to the consumers and wine lovers than what it would need to be. It would perhaps be a nice case for the EU competition and open market authorities to put their teeth in?

Chablis celebration on February 6-7
Saint Vincent Tournante is two days of wine tasting, good food and festivities in Chablis. This time the event takes place on the weekend of February 6-7. More info here: www.saint-vincent-milly-chablis.com

Organic wine: Millesime Bio on January 25-27
Millesime Bio is a wine show that focuses on wine producers who work organically or with biodynamic principles. It has grown substantially over recent years and is now probably the biggest event for organic wine. the next Millesime Bio will take place in Montpellier in the Languedoc on January 25-27 2010.More info: www.millesime-bio.com

Wine buying preferences charted by Twenga
The price comparison search engine Twenga has analysed how their visitors search for wine in different countries. Here are some statistics:

- France: 86% of searches are for French wine
- Italy: 52% are for Italian wine, 43% for French
- Spain: 50% are for Spanish wines, 24% for French and 13% for Italian
- Germany: 40% are for French wine, 27% for Italian, and only 11% for German
- Great Britain: 64% French, 20% Italian

Some more details by country:

Top ten searches in the UK:
- Bordeaux
- Bourgogne (French Burgundy)
- Champagne
- Vallée du Rhône
- Loire
- Languedoc Roussillon
- Spanish Rioja
- French sparkling wine
- Italian Barolo
- Pinot Grigio Italy

Top ten searches in France:
- Bordeaux
- Bourgogne (French Burgundy)
- Champagne
- Vallee du Rhône
- Loire
- French sparkling wine
- Languedoc Roussillon
- Alsace
- Provence
- Jura

Top ten searches in Italy for Italian wines:
- Barolo
- Pinot Grigio
- Chianti Classico
- Amarone
- Nero d'Avola
- Syrah
- Gavi
- Marsala
- Prosecco di Valdobbiadene
- Montepulciano d'Abruzzo

Top ten in Spain for Spanish wines:
- Rioja
- Albarino
- Cava
- Crianza
- Jerez
- Rueda
- Ribeira sacra
- Ribera del duero
- Penedes
- Tempranillo

Top six in Germany for German wines:
- spatburgunder
- deutscher riesling
- dornfelder
- grauburgunder
- scheurebe
- weissburgunder

Evidently French don’t drink much else than French wine, Italians and Spanish are a little more adventurous, Germans don’t seem to particularly like German wines, and English wine drinkers are very conservative. More info on the Twenga blog

New sherry bodega launched: Urium
It is probably quite some time since someone launched a new sherry bodega. But now it has happened. The Spanish Ruiz family, headed by Alonso Ruiz has just launched Bodegas Urium. Undoubtedly a very ambitious and challenging project in times when, unfortunately, sherry is not very easy to sell on the international market. We wish them good luck and success! More info www.diariodejerez.es and jerezwine.com

New issue of the ezine Fine Wine out
Issue nr 3 of the ezine Fine wine has just been published. In it you can read about e.g. three Saint Emilion chateaux and a guide to the medieval town, the Douro Valley, Tuscany and more. You can download it from here: http://www.finewine.nu/

Follow the harvest
The Alsace producer Hugel has a blog where you can follow the harvest, not quite in real time but frequently updated with text and with videos. You can find it here: http://blog.hugel.com/en/harvest/. Quinta dos Malvedos in Portugal’s Douro Valley also has a blog where you can follow what is happening during the harvest: http://malvedos.wordpress.com/

Argentinean exports of malbec up
The exports from Argentina of malbec wines grew with 28% in value and 29% in volume for the first six months 2009. Nice with positivie numbers for a change these days! The biggest export markets are:
USA, 52 % of exports
Canada, 10 %
United Kingdom, 5%
Brazil, 5%
Netherlands, Switzerland, Mexico, Sweden, Denmark and Germany, all 2 % each
Source: WineSur

Eight new Masters of Wine
The total has now reached 280 with the addition of eight new Masters of Wine (MW) in the latest round of diploma attribution. MW is a much coveted British diploma that shows that you know quite a few things about wine. Here are the eight new MWs:
- Susie Barrie MW, a freelance journalist, author, television and radio presenter from Winchester, UK;
- Michael Collier MW, a wine consultant based in Surrey, UK;
- Roman Horvath MW, managing director of Domäne Wachau, Austria;
- Isabelle Legeron MW, a French-born educator, event organiser and television broadcaster, living in London, UK;
- Tim Marson MW, a wine buyer for Bibendum in London, UK;
- Tuomas Meriluoto MW, managing director of WineState, an importer in Finland;
- Frank Roeder MW, founder and chief executive of VIT, a wine distribution company based in Saar, Germany;
- Mai Tjemsland MW, owner of GastroConsult, a restaurant, catering and wine club group in Oslo, Norway.
More info: www.mastersofwine.org

New wine magazine launched #1: Terre de Vins
It’s not every day, with the implosion of the advertising market, that a new wine magazine is launched. To be fair, Terre de Vins has existed for quite a few years, but as a magazine solely dedicated to the wines of the Languedoc-Roussillon. With backing from the Sud-Ouest publishing group they have reshaped the magazine and made it into a national wine mag, with even international scope. So now we will be able to read about wines from all of France as well as some “foreign” wines in Terres de Vins. It uses very good quality photographic material and the articles are generally well written and easy to read. http://www.terredevins.com/

New wine magazine launched #2: Palate Press
An interesting initiative: Palate Press. It is an entirely internet based “magazine” that works like a collaborative project. The articles are written by a group of wine bloggers. “By harnessing the power of the internet […] we are able to have an ‘on the scene reporter’ at every wine-related event on the globe” they say in their introduction, not without a certain (unintended?) hyperbole. What their business model is is not quite clear. Advertising revenue perhaps? And on the other side paying fees to the journalists? Read it here: http://palatepress.com/

Languedoc reading
We have, as you might know, a certain weakness for the Languedoc-Roussillon. A few years back we wrote a book about the wines from the region (so far only published in Swedish unfortunately). Therefore it is with great pleasure that we recently discovered a new blog about Languedoc wines. It is written by the well known British wine book author Rosemary George, who happens to have a summer house in the region. Recommended reading here: Taste Languedoc http://tastelanguedoc.blogspot.com/

Pirate wine
Many countries across Europe are pondering anti-piracy laws. In France we have a proposal (likely to go through) called Hadopi that woul make it easy for authorities to cut the interenet connection for people suspected of downloading pirated music and films. Domaine Bérénas has launched a protest wine called Cuvée Hadopi (admittedly, not a very elegant name). It exists in both red and white. Exactly how it supports the anti-hadopi case we are not sure. Perhaps the profit from the sales goes to a defence fund for pirates? blog.vinospherus.fr

Excellent harvest in the Roussillon
In the Roussillon the harvest is essentially finished. As in many other regions, it is estimated to be a very good vintage. The winter and spring saw a reasonable rainfall (after some dry years) and summer was dry and hot. In August they had, just like in Spain, exceptional heat and it was feared that it might block the maturation of the grapes. Not too much damage was caused though, albeit different parcels have ripened very differently. Provided the wine grower have adapted harvest dates accordingly this has not been a problem. Over all it is expected to be an excellent vintage.

Keep track of your wine cellar
Another wine cellar management site have seen the light of day: www.vinut.com. In addition to keeping track of your bottles it allows you to enter and read tasting notes (yours and from other sources), and to find wine shops that stocks bottles you might be looking for.

Wine Alley/Vitisphere on the Swedish market
Wine Alley/Vitisphere is a site and newsletter in French on wine. It is widely read by the trade and wine producers. The recently published what they called “expert’s opinion” on the Swedish wine market with the heading “More than half the wine sold in Sweden is sold in Bag in Box”. But the fun thing was that it is a quote from BKWine. www.winealley.com We "experts" are delighted and honoured.

Three entertaining wine videos
It’s quite some while since we had the time to update BKWine TV, so here are three other entertaining wine videos:
- Don't go to the gym! Come and pull weed in my vineyard instead!, says Pierre Caslot at Domaine de la Chevalerie in the Loire
- Can you tell the difference between a 1500 euro wine and a 15 euro wine? Not evident, not even for these wine tasting experts: With English subtitles, or simply in French 
- What does the average Frenchman think about screw caps on wine?

Wine festivals in Zagreb
In the last Brief we wrote a piece on a wine event in Zagreb. It turns out that what we wrote may have led to some confusion. So here we try and be a little clearer:
- On November 27-28 there will be ”The Fourth International Zagreb Festival of Wine & Culinary Art”, more info here: www.vino.com.hr
- On February 12-13, 2010 there will be the ”Zagreb Wine Gourmet Festival” at the Arts & Crafts Museum in Zagreb. More information here: zagrebwinegourmet.com
We apologise for any misunderstanding or confusion due to our earlier post. So, if you happen to pass by Zagreb, either in November or in February, there are some fun things to do!

Bordeaux exports drop
Exports of Bordeaux wine fell with 16% over the 12 months up to June 2009 to reach only 1.62 M hectolitre. Measured in value the drop was 14% to reach 1.43 M euro. According to CIVB/Vitisphere.

Naked wine? Demonstrate nude in the vineyards to save French wine
Greenpeace and the artist Spencer Tunick will organise on October 3 or 4 an event / installation in a vineyard in southern Burgundy. Specer Tunick is known for his installations made from, well, naked people. It appears voluntary participants are welcome. Don’t bring your secateurs – the harvest is over and you might hurt yourself. More info: fr-fr.facebook.com and here: www.greenpeace.fr/tunick/ (including illustration). Greenpeace has also published  a report on the effects of climate change on viticulture available here.

Have a news item you'd like to see here or have a news tip? Send me an email: winebrief@bkwine.com

 
Agenda

- - France:

bullet

22-24/2 2010, Montpellier: Vinisud, www.vinisud.com

bullet

25-27/1, Montpellier: Millesime Bio,  www.millesime-bio.com (NEW)

bullet

6-7/2 2010, Chablis:  St Vincent Tournante, www.saint-vincent-milly-chablis.com  (NEW)

- - Sweden:

bullet

10/10, Ostersund: Quality wine fair, www.munskankarna-z.se

bullet

20-23/4, 2010, Stockholm: Vinordic, www.vinordic.se

- - UK, Belgium, Switzerland, Spain, Denmark,...:

bullet

30/10-1/11, Lisbon: European Wine Bloggers' Conference, winebloggersconference.org/europe/

bullet

27-28/11, Zagreb: ”The Fourth International Zagreb Festival of Wine & Culinary Art”,  http://www.vino.com.hr/ (NEW)

bullet

12-13/2, Zagreb:  ”Zagreb Wine Gourmet Festival”, zagrebwinegourmet.com (NEW)

bullet

25-27/5 2010, Hong Kong: VinExpo Asia-Pacific,  www.vinexpo.com

Wine auction agendas:

bullet Sotheby's
bullet Christie's
bullet Bruun Rasmussen (Denmark)
bullet Zachys (USA)
bullet WineField (Holland)

Something we've missed? Send us suggestions for events to be added here: winebrief@bkwine.com 

 
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