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Welcome to the
BKWine Brief nr 70, May 2009 |
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Summer is approaching
I was recently in Veneto in northern Italy. That’s the birthplace of the
famous amarone wines – a wine that has over recent years found a
dedicated following amongst many wine enthusiasts, although you will
easily pay 20-30€ or more for a bottle. It is interesting wines, quite
peculiar character (and quite a peculiar vinification process too). I’ve
been in Veneto a few times now and the fact is that it’s not the
amarones that have surprised and interested me the most (yes, they can
be good too). It is actually the soaves that stick in my memory. It used
to be that Soave was a region that made very light wines, often
anonymous on the verge of being without identity, but, wow, has that
changed! Now you can find soaves that are full of character, sometimes
even powerful, always with a lot of fresh fruit. Often with a hint of
almond. Provided you know which producer to look for of course. Lots of
new technology and quite a lot of experimenting. Some use cryo-extraction,
or a light appassimento (drying of the grapes), or late harvested
grapes. Or just simply competent wine making! A wine worth rediscovering
if you ever have had the same misconception as us.
Some other suggestions for wines to try, when summer is changing from
dream to reality, especially if we get some warm weather: red Loire
wines made with cabernet franc; rosso di Montalcino, the lighter (and
not so expensive) version of Brunello; a crispy, dry and elegant German
wine, or why not Austrian; a white Bordeaux, an often underrated wine; a
light and fruity Gaillac or Fronton;… I can go on and on and on.
Too cheap for it’s own good?
Now is certainly a time to think about one’s expenses. Kan you save a
bit here or there it can be a good thing. But don’t let that zeal go too
far. As for wine, it is perhaps time to try that lesser known name,
rather than the world famous one? Wine too is a market subject to
brands, fashions and trends so why not be counter-trendy? But above all,
don’t think that you can get good wine for too little money.
I just talked to a person who is a fiscal consultant here in France. He
told me about one of his clients who is a wine producer in Bordeaux.
Wine producers, as many others, have a hard time at the moment. This one
was fortunate, though, since he was supplying one of the big retailing
chains in France with Bordeaux. The latest request he’d had from them
was for a wine that they wanted to pay 90 cents for. Yes, 90 cents of a
euro. But the unfortunate thing was that the buyer finally decided not
to buy, so now the wine was left in the cellar. And with pest comes
cholera (or what is the saying?): another potential customer had
contacted the wine producer to see if he could supply wine. The budget?
50 cents per bottle. Take account of the bottle, the label and the cork
and there’s virtually nothing left. Can you make and sell good wine at
such prices? No. can you live on it? No.
So, do spend an extra euro (or whatever) on the wine. You’ll get a much
better wine. And the wine producer might be there next year too to
supply you with his next vintage.
Tomorrow we’re leaving for a boat trip on the Canal du Midi – a new wine
tour we’ve launched in collaboration with Posedion Travel. We’ll float
leisurely along the canal in the Languedoc and then will make a few
stops and go visit some of the best producers in the region. I wonder if
the gendarmes have canal-side stops to test you, like they frequently
have on the roads in France these days…
Britt & Per
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Britt

Per
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News from BKWine |
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Wine Tours
Autumn 2009
wine tours
 | October
14-18: Bordeaux Confidential Châteaux Wine Tour |
In
Bordeaux you find world famous châteaux and world famous wines but also a
lot of new exciting initiatives (less famous but maybe more important for
the future of Bordeaux!) and young enthusiastic wine makers. On this trip
we will visit both some big, famous Grand Cru Classé-châteaux and smaller
ones that are less known, but very quality conscious.
More info on this wine tour to Bordeaux.
 | November
14-18: Bordeaux Confidential Châteaux Wine Tour |
In
Bordeaux you find world famous châteaux and world famous wines but also a
lot of new exciting initiatives (less famous but maybe more important for
the future of Bordeaux!) and young enthusiastic wine makers. On this trip
we will visit both some big, famous Grand Cru Classé-châteaux and smaller
ones that are less known, but very quality conscious.
More info on this wine tour to Bordeaux.
More info on the BKWine wine tours here!
Custom wine
tours
We
also make custom designed wine tours – on-demand tours for you and a group
of friends, for your company (maybe to scout new winegrowers?), for a
special event… We can combine winery visits and wine touring with other
activities: gastronomic workshops, visit to an oyster farm, truffles
hunting, cheese making, and more. We’ve done tours for wine clubs, for
sommelier educations, for corporate events, for wine importers, for wine
course study groups… just to mention a few.
You'll get a tour designed exactly according to your requirements and
tastes, made by one of the most experienced wine people in the business. We
personally visit some 200 wineries and taste thousands of wines every year;
we write on wine for various wine magazines (we had more than 30 articles
published last year); in 2007 we published a ground breaking book on the
wine of the Languedoc and this year we have another one coming. And we have
organised hundreds of wine tours over the years. More info on the BKWine wine tours here!
Wine tours in Finnish
 | September 30-October
4: Alsace |
 | November 4-8:
Languedoc |
More info on the
Finnish wine tours here: Viinimatkoja |
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Recommendations |
| A selection of
what we have tried, tasted or visited recently.
□
Producers
Quinta da Gaivosa, Cumieira,
Douro-dalen
Domingos Alva de Sousa and his son have made it their speciality to make DOC
Douro wines (”table” wines as opposed to port wine) in the dramatic port
wine valley. The family owns 110 hectares split over five properties. The
secret of the wines magnificent quality are actually the old wines (apart
from very competent wine making of course), some more than a hundred years
old.
Click here for address and more recommendations.
Quinta do Mouro, Estremoz,
Alentejo
Miguel
Louro, who also works as a dentist in Evora (and looks a bit like Salvador
Dalí), and his sun Luis run this high quality winery owning 30 ha in
Alentejo. “Our wines are hand crafted wines”, says Miguel, “all is done by
hand. The secret with excellent wines is that you have ripe grapes and low
yields”. The wines are classic Portuguese with some herbs and a wonderful
fruit.
Click here for address and more recommendations.
Domaine Philippe et Vincent
Jaboulet, Mercurol,
After
30 years as responsible for the wine production at the famous Rhône producer
Paul Jaboulet Aîné in Tain l’Hermitage Philippe Jaboulet, together with his
son Vincent, started off on his own and created Domaine Philippe et Vincent
Jaboulet in Mercurol three kilometres to the south. Vincent is a trained
oenologist and has worked in Australia. He’s the fifth generation of the
Jaboulet family making wine. They make a Crozes-Hermitage (both red and
white), a red Hermitage and a Cornas. The wines are consistently good.
Click here for address and more recommendations.
Read about more recommended
producers on the site:
Favourite Producers
□ Wine
Bars and Restaurants
Restaurang L’Olivier du
Clavel, Bordeaux
It’s
just in front of the St Jean railway station in Bordeaux so it’s not exactly
a charming area, but there are many other good reasons to go to L’Olivier du
Clavel and not only when your catching a train. The cuisine is excellent and
prices are very reasonable. You can have a two course lunch for 16 euro (or
three for 19 euro), including a glass of wine (!), and in the evening they
have a 29 euro three course menu. We recently had a fabulous risotto with
pesto and grilled shrimps, a brochette with scallops, parmesan and green
asparagus, and a duck’s breast with mango and polenta. Everything very well
prepared and delicious. They also have a reasonable (not large but well
chosen) selection of wines you can order by the glass.
Click here for address and more recommendations.
□ Wine
of
the Month
Criteria: an interesting wine
(not too cheap) and one that you can enjoy with dinner or friends (not too
expensive). And very good!
Åsa recommends:
Gini, Gini, Gini!
You never get bored with the wines from the Gini family winery. We’re in
Veneto in north-eastern Italy. To be precise, in Monteforte d’alpone, not
far from the town of Soave. It’s a difficult choice to settle for just one
of the Gini wines to taste. But since days are getting longer let’s choose
the Soave Classico La Froscá. This wine is made from hand-picked grapes from
vines with an average age of 50 years. Fermentation is partially in
stainless steel and partially in barriques. It’s a very well structured
Soave (with 13% alcohol), nuanced and flowery nose (garganega can otherwise
sometimes be rather neutral) and some ripe fruit in the finish. La Froscá
goes well with pasta and fish but also to what the Italians call “animale da
cortile” (animals from the back yard!): white meats like pork of chicken.
Approximate price: 15€.
www.ginivini.com
Jack recommends
Losada, Bierzo, Spanien
This
month I’ve chosen a wine that without any inhibitions excels in ripe fruit,
soft tannins and delicious vanilla ice-cream. It’s an unfiltered purple
Rubens wine with a big meaty nose with aromas of plums and blackberries with
a topping of aromatic herbs and, for once, a reasonably balanced barrel
treatment. the wine is the 2006 Losada from Bodegas Losada Vinos de Finca
(approx. €10) from Bierzo in Castilla y Léon in north western Spain (that
you also could read about in the last Brief). It’s made from the recently
popular grape variety mencia. A perfect match for your first session in
front of the barbeque this spring with perhaps some juicy and fat pork
chops.
Read more recommendations on
restaurants and wine bars on
my Restaurant and Wine Bar page. |
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News from the Wine World |
Revolutionary
champagne ”cork” launched by Alcan and Duval-Leroy
 Champagne
is not entirely spared problems with poor quality corks and goût de bouchon.
Champanges Duval-Leroy has just today (May 5), as the first house, launched
a champagne with a new “revolutionary” cork, called Maestro. But it’s not
really a cork but a crown cap (or crown cork, like on beer bottles).
Virtually all champagne spend at least 15 months and often up to three, four
or more years in bottle closed with a crown cap – after the second
fermentation in bottle, when the wine ages in bottle on the lees, before it
is degorged (lees removed and recorked). Unfortunately no customer would
accept to open a precious bottle of champagne with a beer bottle opener, or
so the producers think (albeit Domaine Chandon in Australia sells such a
wine). Alcan’s new closure solves the two problems: you don’t need a bottle
opener and you get the traditional plopp, just like with a “real” cork. And
in addition there is no risk of corked wine. See how it works on our video:
in French with Carol Duval-Leroy, head of the champagne house, or in English
with their director of international
youtube.com/bkwine.
BKWine on American radio
The Wine Fairy, or Wine and Dine Radio,
www.winefairy.comis an internet radio station (podcast) that only talks
about wine. You can also listen to it on iTunes. In a recent emission BKWine
was “today’s guest” of the creator of the show, Lynn Krielow Chamberlain.
You can listen to the program and
the interview with BKWine and Per here or connect to the station on
Live365.com or on
vinvillage.com
New reports from the wine
economists
The
American Association of Wine Economists regularly publishes white papers on
varying subjects. The latest ones cover these themes:
- Can People Distinguish Pâté from Dog Food?, och
- When does the Price Affect the Taste? Results from a Wine Experiment
You can read them here:
www.wine-economics.org/workingpapers/
Wine video festival and wine
photo exhibition
You have no doubt heard of the Cannes film festival but perhaps not of
oenovideo. The Riviera version is no doubt more ambitious but for the
vinophile Oenovideo is more interesting. Each year videos on the theme of
wine compete in this small film festival. It can be promotional videos,
movies, reportage or other things. Every year the festival takes place in a
different place. This year it is the turn of Beaune. So if you are in
Burgundy between may 8 and 10 don’t miss Oenovideo in Beaune.
www.oenovideo.oeno.tm.fr
Australia is like Bordeaux,
but the other way around
Australia
has gained a reputation of being primarily a source of cheap bulk wines and
Bordeaux is mostly know for producing wines that no one can afford any
longer (thanks to their rocket-like price increases in recent years). Both
regions suffer from these images that are not telling the whole story.
Australia has many ambitious winemakers who produce top quality wine and you
can find excellent value-for-money wines in Bordeaux in the price range of 8
to 18 euro. Australia’s ambitious producers have recently had some good
press e.g. by
Jancis Robinson in the FT or by
Mike Steinberger in Slate. Now we’re only waiting for the pieces on good
value Bordeaux!
Bordeaux primeurs prices
falling
Quite
as expected (and demanded by many) the prices of the Bordeaux Primeurs (2008
vintage) have fallen. As we reported in the last Brief, Angélus set the tone
with a release price down 40% from last year. Many other chateaux have now
announced what price they demand for the latest vintage. It is decreasing
prices all over with between 10% and 40% and sometimes more. Ch Yquem went
down with 59%. Read more on e.g.
New Bordeaux and
newbordeaux.blog.co.uk. But as a wine consumer it is perhaps a bit too
early to cheer too much considering the price hikes seen in recent years.
Maybe we can expect prices to come down to just “expensive” from
“ridiculous”. More
Les Echos
France sponsors 1000 free
wine and cheese parties
France
has launched a campaign in 19 countries (USA, Canada, Spain etc) where
anyone who wants can sign up to be a candidate to be sponsored for a free
wine and cheese party. 1000 participants will be chosen to organise in their
homes a paid-for-by-France wine and cheese cocktail party. The only
condition is that they afterwards report on how it turned out. The party
package contains (apart from wine and cheese one assumes) a French apron and
a CD with music by Carla Bruni (an Italian-born French singer who is married
to Nicolas Sarkozy, the French president, who does not drink wine… Figure
that one out!) They have a budget of 1.6 million euro for the parties to
promote French gastronomy and wine, all coordinated by the promotion
organisation Sopexa. We cannot quite figure out how this campaign fits with
the various anti-wine measures and campaigns that they implement at home on
the French territory. Why not launch the campaign in France too instead? Or
do French authorities want us to drink more French wine but only if it is
done outside of France?
Wall Street Journal
Wine producer E&J Gallo
attacks grocery store in Seattle
E&J
Gallo is one of the world’s largest producers of wine, based in California.
The Spanish table is a small grocery store chain in Seattle with four shops,
specialised in Spanish food. Gallo is about to take the food store to court
because they sell a Spanish brand of pasta, made in Spain, called, you
guessed, Gallo. EJ Gallo had given The Spanish Table until April 16 to
comply with their demand to remove the pasta but already on April 14 they
filed in court. Are there not better things to do for a wine producer? Read
more:
Modesto Bee or watch the video
king5.com
The Parker Effect (1)
If
anyone doubted the importance of Parker Points (ratings from the wine guru
Robert Parker) the story of this year’s primeurs should dispel any doubt.
Liv-ex has made a graph illustrating the price evolution of Chateau Lafite
2008. On April 29 Parker published his comments on the 2008 vintage and his
rating of Lafite was very positive. The Liv-ex graph is very illustrative.
Read more on the Liv-ex post here:
Liv-ex
Restaurant VAT down
France will lower the VAT on restaurants to 5.5%. Currently restaurant bills
are subject to “normal” VAT at 19.6%. The change will happen in January
2010, or possibly already in July this year. The intention is to dampen the
downward trend that restaurants have seen in recent months. Restaurant
visits have gone down with between 10% and 50%percent.
restho-news.com
Make your own Bordeaux –
live your dream?
CrushPad
started a few years ago in California. It’s a (relatively) inexpensive way
to make your own wine. They collaborate with wine producers and as a member
/ customer you get the possibility to (almost) make your own wine. Grapes
are supplied by selected vineyard partners and you get expert advice and
assistance to make your own microcuvée at a winery. In California the model
seems to have reaped some success and now the Crushpad model comes to
Europe. They have started a cooperation with Chateau Teyssier in Bordeaux,
run by Jonathan Malthus, where the wines will be made. And then you only
need to bring the bottles home to your bursting cellar. “Our clients can
live the dream of owning a vineyard at a fraction of the cost” says Stephen
Bolger, president of Crushpad France.
www.crushpadwine.fr or
www.crushpadwine.com
"Robert Parker should be
ashamed of himself”
That is at least what many wine bloggers think. Parker does exist on the
internet, as eRobertParker.com, but he’s certainly not a dedicated Web 2.0
adept. More importantly, he has written several denigrating comments about
wine blogging, wine bloggers, and the Open Wine Consortium (organising the
American Wine Bloggers Conference), implying that what wine bloggers write
is of no value and that many wine bloggers are ‘bought’ by the wine
industry. Not good Mr Parker. Read a detailed commentary here:
WineLifeToday.com and
SansDosage.blogspot.com and
winecase.wordpress.com
Robert Parker’s impartiality
in question
More rough times for Robert Parker. Not only is he in trouble with the wine
blogging community but he also seems to have difficulties with his own
ethical rules. He has laid down very strict ethical rules for how the Robert
Parker tasting and writing team operates. For example, they always pay their
own hotels, they do not accept trips paid for by wineries or promotional
organisations, they always pay their own restaurant bills etc. In reality,
rules that virtually no other professional wine writer can live by. But now
it turns out that his collaborators in the Robert Parker publications
apparently do not follow those rules. DrVino, an interesting wine blogger,
wrote a letter to Parker and asked for clarifications. Parker is, after all,
a very dominant entity in the wine world, so it is reasonable to know what
goes. Tyler Colman (=DrVino) did receive an answer but Parker simply
dismissed the question without at all addressing the key questions. Another
thing that has made the wine bloggosphere buzz. With reason, we’d say.
Read all of DrVinos story here
What’s a rosé wine?
As
part of the EU wine reform that has been agreed by the countries’
agricultural representatives it is planned that it will become legal to make
rosé wine by blending red and white wine. Today, in most EU countries, you
have to make rosé from red grapes with a short skin maceration (except,
we’ve heard, in Spain). But that might not be something that you’re average
rosé wine consumer knows. Or cares about. Now, in the eleventh hour, there
has come a lot of protests from primarily French and Italian wine producers
who say that it would destroy the quality of rosé wines (if it ever was
there to start with). But, one might ask, did then the countries agree to it
in the first place? Well, one comment we heard was that the Italians did not
want to raise their voice in the previous discussions since they had been
cheating with the milk quotas and did therefore not want to attract any
attention. And the French? Perhaps they were sleeping? We don’t know. But
does it really matter? Would it be such a catastrophe if you could make rosé
wines by blending red and white? (And would the consumer suffer?) Or is it
the “traditional” rosé wine producers who do not want to get more
competition? We’re not convinced. And then you should keep in mind that
virtually all rosé champagne is made by blending red and white wine. And we
have not heard anyone protesting against that. Have you? See e.g.
Reuters and
vitisphere.com
To filter or not to filter?
We’ve
previously written about filtering of wine (us being wine tech geeks!?).
Does it matter? Is it good or bad? Is there any substance in the fashion of
making unfiltered wines? Here’s an interesting article by Tim Patterson in
Vines & Wines:
”If filtration ’strips’ wine, what’s getting stripped?”
Do winemakers make wines
they like or wines that get high Parker Points? (The Parker Effect 2)
Do the winemakers make wines they like, or wines the consumers like, or
wines to please the most influential wine critics (Robert Parker of the Wine
Advocate, James Laube of Wine Spectator and perhaps some more)? That’s the
question that Tina Caputa, editor-in-chief of Vineyard and winery Management
Magazine, asked herself when preparing a presentation for the American Wine
Society. But she also put the question to the winemakers. The result is a
video reportage looking at how the heavyweight wine critics influence the
type of wines we can buy today. Watch the reportage here:
downunderwines.net
Advanced wine tasting
technique with Fry & Laurie
Perhaps
not a method to take after but a quite enjoyable clip about wine tasting
with Hugh Laurie and Stephen Fry.
“This one is cat and the other one is dog, right?”
Australian albarino turns
out to be savagnin
Some wine producers in Australia have turned out some very decent wines from
albariño grapes (some 150 ha planted). Albarino is a grape variety well
known from e.g. northern Portugal. At least, so they thought. Two French
researchers, Jean-Michel Boursiquot and Laurent Audeguin at the Institut
Français de la Vigne et du Vin, have made DNA analysis of the vine. It turns
out that it’s not albariño at all but a variety called savagnin. Savagning
is a little known grape that is primarily used in the Jura district in
eastern France. More
vitisphere.com. Australian researchers have subsequently done their own
tests and made the same conclusion…
decanter.com
Full moon? Cancel the wine
tasting!
If
the moon is not in the right moon phase the wine may taste much worse, that
is at least what Tesco and Marks & Spencer, two of Britain’s biggest wine
retailers think. They only invite to tastings on days when the moon is in an
appropriate position for tasting. This is inspired by the so called
biodynamic sowing and planting calendar where days are categorised as
appropriate for different activities. Some days are good for planting, other
for harvesting etc. And apparently, some days are better for tasting than
others. Jo Ahearne at M&S was doubtful but after having made comparative
tastings he was convinced that it made a big difference. Time to reschedule
your tastings? (Note: The calendar, established every year by Maria Thun, is
not strictly speaking part of the biodynamic principles, but many biodynamic
growers use it. Many growers who are not biodynamic also look at the moon
phase to decide the appropriate days for e.g. bottling or racking.) More on
news.scotsman.com
Alsace growers want to stop
other’s from putting riesling et al. on the label
One part of the new EU wine reform is that from the first of August it will
be possible to put the grape variety (e.g. riesling) on the label for wines
“without geographic denomination”. Typically, this refers to wines that fall
outside the traditional AOC (AOP) rules for a region. Say you make a
riesling wine in Languedoc. Riesling is not a permitted variety in AOC (AOP)
Languedoc so instead the wine will have to be made “without geographic
denomination”, what used to be called Vin de Table, but on a VdT it was
forbidden to specify the grape variety. But with the reform it will now be
possible to put the variety on the label. But the Alsace producers are not
happy with this. They think that putting e.g. riesling or gewürztraminer on
a wine that does not come from Alsace will confuse customers and devalue
Alsatian wines. Therefore they want to forbid growers in other regions to
mention the “Alsatian” varieties. The French have now launched a committee
that will try and find a compromise. Another example of counterproductive
and narrow self-interests that hinders a progression towards a better
functioning wine market? After all, there are plenty of wines out there that
say riesling, gewürztraminer etc on the label from e.g. Germany, Spain, not
to mention the New World. So again, we have some French producers hindering
other French producers to compete better against wine producers from other
countries.
vitisphere.com
Have a news
item you'd like to see here or have a news tip? Send me an email:
winebrief@bkwine.com |
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Agenda |
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- -
France:
- -
Sweden:
- - UK,
Belgium, Switzerland, Spain, Denmark,...:
 |
24-26/7, Napa: American Wine
Bloggers Conference,
http://winebloggersconference.org/america/ |
 |
23/8, Copenhagen: Garagevin,
grage wine fair,
www.garagevin.com |
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19/9, Copenhagen:
Rhône wine fair,
www.rhonevinfestival.dk |
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30/10-1/11, Lisbon: European
Wine Bloggers' Conference,
winebloggersconference.org/europe/ |
 |
25-27/5 2010, Hong Kong:
VinExpo Asia-Pacific,
www.vinexpo.com |
Wine auction
agendas:
Something we've missed? Send us suggestions for events to be added here:
winebrief@bkwine.com |
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Copyright
©
Britt Karlsson, BKWine
www.bkwine.com
info@bkwine.com
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