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Swedish version available here (click this link).

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Welcome to the
BKWine Brief nr 69, April 2009 |
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Castilla y Léon
Castilla y Léon? Yes, that’s right. We were recently there to take a
closer look at their wines, but not, as you might think their most
famous wine region the Ribera del Duero. Let’s begin with a short intro:
Castilla y Léon is one of the regions in Spain. It’s the biggest one and
stretches from a bit north west of Madrid up to Galicia (bordering the
Atlantic). On the western side it also touches Portugal. The main city
is Valladolid, a charming mid-size city with direct flights to a few
other European countries. Or you can fly to Madrid and take the train
(or a car).
The region has about a dozen different wine districts, but we “only” had
time to cover six of them over the three and a half days we spent there:
DO Cigales, DO Arribes, DO Tierra del Vino de Zamora, VCPRD Valles de
Benavente, DO Bierzo, DO Tierra de Leon. Here are some short notes:
Bodegas Concejo (previously Bodegas y Vinedos Pilcar) is a
familiy vineyard with high ambitions, located in the DO Cigales close to
Valladolid. Enrique Concejo runs the winery since a few years back when
he took over after his father. Very modern wines with lots of barrel
aging. He also has an impressive hotel project in the pipe, which seems
to include renovating half of an ancient village nearby.
www.concejobodegas.com
La Setera is a very small winery in the remote corner called DO
Arribes (the district is actually called Arribes del Duero, but the DO
is just Arribes. Apparently some tricky issue with DO Ribera del Duero…).
The country side looks rough, remote and grandiose. La Setera makes the
red wines primarily from a local grape variety called Juan Garcia, very
interesting, producing wines with lots of freshness, acidity and
minerality (good structure). They also make a white from malvasia that
is a steal. A pity they make so few bottles. And on top of it they make
wonderful goat cheese.
www.lasetera.com
Bodegas Vinas del Cenit (DO aptly named Tierra del Vino de
Zamora) is much bigger and a “commercial” oriented bodega (not least
thanks to its site). They make very concentrated wines with lots of very
ripe fruit and extensive barrel aging. Very modern and international in
style. Curios fact: they have a vineyard with old ungrafted tempranillo.
www.bodegascenit.com
Bodegas Viñas Zamoranas (DO Tierra Del Vino De Zamora). You
cannot avoid talkling about the hotel that is part of the property when
you describe Zamoranas. A very peculiar hotel experience. It’s in what
used to be a priest seminary and decorated with a lot of religious and
other ancient (and not so ancient) art. But don’t get it wrong – they
also have an Egyptian night club! The wines are traditional and
definitely not as bizarre as the hotel.
www.hotel-convento.com
Bodegas Otero (V.C.P.R.D. Valles De Benavente) is on one of the
big avenues in the town of Benavente (when the bodega was built it was
in the countryside). Tasted several of their wines made from primarily
the unusual grape variety prieto picudo (sometimes mixed with
tempranillo). Good wines with a refreshing acidity and red fruit
character. With aging potential, judging from the rosé 1970 we tasted!
www.bodegasotero.es
Bodegas y Vinedos Agribergidum (DO Bierzo). Bierzo is in the far
north west corner. Near the city of Ponferrada there is an old roman
gold mine (Las Medulas). From the top of the mountain you have a
spectacular view of what looks like gigantic termite mounds, but it’s
what remains of the Unesco World Heritage classified mine. The bodega
make excellent wines using varying brands for the different cuvees, both
red, white, rosé and sparkling, modern in style without being over-dosed
on oak. Will be interesting to follow their evolution.
www.agribergidum.es
Bodegas Margon (DO Tierra de Léon) is a brand new vineyard. The
owners are not short of resources so all equipment and the winery is
gleaming new. The wines show nicely and promise well for the future.
Perhaps a bit “international” so let’s hope they will try and develop
the local originality once they have reached cruising speed. they do
have one big problem: the wine is called Pricum, no doubt as a roman
reference, but it will hardly work well as a brand in English speaking
markets.
www.bodegasmargon.com
Bodegas Frutos Villar, in DO Cigales, is the DO’s biggest
producer. Their main brand in Cigales is Calderona. (They also own
vineyards in Ribera, Rueda and Toro). They offer a wide range of
products Calderona and others. Their mid range is the most interesting
from a value for money standpoint (e.g. Roble and Crinaza).
www.bodegasfrutosvillar.com
In other words, lots of things to see and taste in Castilla y Léon!
Wine, Serrano ham in droves (yummy!), tapas and much more. We will have
reasons to come back to this in other contexts.
Bordeaux
Primeurs
This year’s primeur
campaign is over. It turned out better than many had feared at early
this year even if attendance was a bit down from last year. Now we have
to wait and see what will happen to the prices, which will start coming
out over the next few weeks and months. Only one chateau has already
“come out” as we write this. Read more below.
Languedoc
Languedoc too has its
Primeurs Launch. It was a multi-day event earlier this spring where
participants had the opportunity to taste more than 500 wines from most
of the regions appellations. It is difficult to give a brief summary of
the wines (there were so many and of so different character), but they
all seem to have turned out better than what could have been feared last
summer. Before and during the harvest weather was nice but with cool
nights, which has brought a fresh acidity and more aromas to the wines.
We will come back to this!
Wine
travel
Don’t forget to take a look
at our travel program for this autumn further down in the Brief. We’re
just back from a wonderful trip to Champagne and Chablis with four days
of splendid weather. No dining outside yet but many wines were tasted in
the vignerons’ gardens inn the spring sunshine.
The coming autumn we have two Bordeaux trips on the public schedule. But
we also do custom made trips for wine clubs, private parties, companies
and others. Last year we organised and personally led some 30 wine
tours: France of course, but also Italy, Portugal, Spain, Germany,
Austria, Germany…
Britt & Per
PS: Recommend to your
friends to read the Brief or forward it to them !
More on wine:
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Britt

Per
All
previous issues
of the Brief are here:
Archive |
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News from BKWine |
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Wine Tours
Autumn 2009
wine tours
 | October
14-18: Bordeaux Confidential Châteaux Wine Tour |
In
Bordeaux you find world famous châteaux and world famous wines but also a
lot of new exciting initiatives (less famous but maybe more important for
the future of Bordeaux!) and young enthusiastic wine makers. On this trip
we will visit both some big, famous Grand Cru Classé-châteaux and smaller
ones that are less known, but very quality conscious.
More info on this wine tour to Bordeaux.
 | November
14-18: Bordeaux Confidential Châteaux Wine Tour |
In
Bordeaux you find world famous châteaux and world famous wines but also a
lot of new exciting initiatives (less famous but maybe more important for
the future of Bordeaux!) and young enthusiastic wine makers. On this trip
we will visit both some big, famous Grand Cru Classé-châteaux and smaller
ones that are less known, but very quality conscious.
More info on this wine tour to Bordeaux.
More info on the BKWine wine tours here!
Custom wine
tours
We
also make custom designed wine tours – on-demand tours for you and a group
of friends, for your company (maybe to scout new winegrowers?), for a
special event… We can combine winery visits and wine touring with other
activities: gastronomic workshops, visit to an oyster farm, truffles
hunting, cheese making, and more. We’ve done tours for wine clubs, for
sommelier educations, for corporate events, for wine importers, for wine
course study groups… just to mention a few.
You'll get a tour designed exactly according to your requirements and
tastes, made by one of the most experienced wine people in the business. We
personally visit some 200 wineries and taste thousands of wines every year;
we write on wine for various wine magazines (we had more than 30 articles
published last year); in 2007 we published a ground breaking book on the
wine of the Languedoc and this year we have another one coming. And we have
organised hundreds of wine tours over the years. More info on the BKWine wine tours here!
Wine tours in Finnish
 | September 30-October
4: Alsace |
 | November 4-8:
Languedoc |
More info on the
Finnish wine tours here: Viinimatkoja |
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Recommendations |
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□ Wine
of
the Month
Criteria: an interesting wine
(not too cheap) and one that you can enjoy with dinner or friends (not too
expensive). And very good! (Jack is BKWine’s reporter in Stockholm,
following the Swedish wine market. Åsa is BKWine’s specialist on Italy,
based in Florence.)
Jack’s wine pick of the
month
Saint Joseph 2007, Les Vins de Vienne
April
brings with it both Easter and cool evenings, the perfect context to try
some fruity, young syrah. And what better than to try something from the
somewhat lesser-known district Saint Joseph, in the middle of the northern
Rhône “Syrah Land”. My choice is a bottle from Les Vins de Vienne, a joint
venture between three growers: Yves Cuilleron, François Villard, Pierre
Gaillard and Jean-Pierre Villa (sold for around 14€ in Sweden). It gives you
plenty of young and fresh fruit and the classic syrah charcuteri flavours,
with a wrapping of raw meat and some oak character. Drink it now before it
closes up, or save it another five to eight years. Perfect to accompany the
bloody steak or hard cheeses. Or the Easter lamb.
-Jack Jakobsson
Åsa’s wine pick of the month
Le Volte, an elegant wine for every day
Ornellaia is a world famous wine and is a top “super Tuscan”. at least if
you look at the price tag. Count on no less then 150 euro, if not more, so
it’s not quite for every day drinking. Tenuta Ornellaia, started by Ludovico
Antinori, but now owned by the American wine giant Mondavi, they also
produce a baby brother wine called le Volte. Le Volte is made from 50%
sangiovese, 35 % merlot and 15 % cabernet sauvignon with a barrel aging of
10 months (two year old barrels, already used for Ornellaia and Masseto). Le
Volte is well balanced with a full, round taste with a refreshing acidity in
the finish, which is typical for (well made) sangiovese. An affordable, yet
elegant wine for around 15 euro.
www.ornellaia.com
-Åsa Johansson
Read more recommendations on
restaurants and wine bars on
my Restaurant and Wine Bar page. |
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News from the Wine World |
BKWine TV:
Domaine du Sang des Cailloux, Rhône
We’ve
published a new interview on BKWine TV: The winemaker Serge Férigoule at
Domaine du sang des Cailloux in the southern Rhône Valley. the vineyards are
in Vacqueyras, near Courthezon. He makes primarily two cuvees, a Cuvée
Classique that he names after his three daughters (Doucinelle, Florette, or
Azalais) and a cuvee vieilles vignes made from old vines.
Watch
the video with the winemaker at domaine du Sang des Cailloux on BKWine TV.
It’s spring. Can you hear the
twittering?
“Social
media” is a somewhat vague term, but one has to try and understand it.
“Twitter” is a web service that became well known much thanks to the
American presidential election. Obama twittered. I’m not sure if Mc Cain
(was that his name?) twittered. Now BKWine too twitters. To twitter is to
send short messages, not more than 140 characters. A bit like SMS, or
texting on the phone. The difference is that anyone (or more precisely, any
follower) can read the message. So now we’re twittering to our heart’s
delight… About what we’re drinking for dinner. Where we’re travelling. What
we’re writing about just now. And so on. If by any chance you’d be
interested in that. And perhaps one day we’ll figure out what it’s good for.
If you want to listen to our twittering we’re here:
http://twitter.com/bkwineper. And you do have to try and figure it out,
don’t you?
European Wine Bloggers’
Conference in Lisbon in October
For
the second year in a row there will be a big meeting for all European wine
bloggers, this time based in Lisbon. The conference is above all an occasion
to meet many other wine bloggers: wine enthusiasts, journalists, blogging
winemakers, marketers and anyone else who’s interested in wine blogging. And
there will be plenty of opportunities to taste many exciting Portuguese
wines. The EWBC takes place in Lisbon on October 30 to November 1. And it’s
virtually free for wine bloggers! More info
http://winebloggersconference.org/europe/ (And for twitterers: #EWBC )
American Wine Bloggers’
Conference
If instead you are in North America you can attend the American Wine
Bloggers’ Conference. It takes place on July 24-26 in Napa and Sonoma. More
about this here:
http://winebloggersconference.org/america/
Over dose of wine critic
A
recent phenomenon in the (primarily) American world of wine critics is Gary
Vaynerchuk. He owns and used to run a wine retailing business but has now
moved on to building a brand around himself on video. His videos have become
immensely popular and are watched by thousands of people… All follow the
same format: Gary Vee (as he calls himself) talks to the camera and tastes a
handful of wines, sometimes together with a guest taster. The clips are
undeniably original and not to everyone’s taste. That they have such an
immense following is somewhat of a mystery. If you have never seen one of
his videos this is a good introduction, a bit like an amarone Recioto of
Vaynerchuk, or an OD of wine criticism:
www.boozemonkey.com Difficult not to laugh.
Constellation unloads six
wineries for $234 million
Constellation, one of the worlds biggest wine producers, has sold six
vineyards and eight brands for $234 million. the buyer is a new venture
capital backed company called Ascentia that is run by Peter Ekman, who has
previously been with e.g. Wine.com. Ekman is of Swedish origin but has lived
in California for several years. Which wineries and brands that are included
is not disclosed, but we are led to believe that it is the Beam Wine Estates
that was acquired by Constellation in 2007 for $885 million. Nice discount.
Which grape variety is the
most planted in France?
What
is your guess? Cabernet? Syrah? Ugni blanc? Or something else? No, none of
those. For most of the 20th century it was carignan, but half of that
acreage has been up-rooted, primarily in the Languedoc region. So, the
answer is: merlot. Here’s the latest statistics:
1. Merlot: 117 000 ha
2. Grenache: 99 000 ha
3. Ugni blanc: 83 000 ha
4. Carignan: 74 000 hektar
(according to the Institut Français de la Vigne et du Vin, plantings in
2006)
Much
has changed during the 20th century. Looking back, this is the evolution of
carignan plantings:
1958: 169’ ha
1968: 211’ ha
1979: 207’ ha
1988: 167’ ha
1998: 102’ ha
2006: 74’ ha
Carignan was hard hit by the campaigns to pull up vines to dry out the “wine
lake” in Europe. 130,000 ha were lost (a bit more than the entire acreage in
Bordeaux) and plantings were cut in half. Which today many lament inn the
Languedoc region since there are many talented producers there who know how
to make quality wine from carignan (albeit it used to be used mainly for
quantity). As is the case in e.g. Priorat in Catalonia, under the name
cariñena or mazuelo. But yes, too much went into bad wine.
Merlot
(merlot noir)
1958: 17’ ha
1968: 25’ ha
1979: 38’ ha
1988: 60’ ha
1998: 90’ ha
2006: 117’ ha
Merlot is the big winner with its friendly, fruity and round wines.
Grenache
(grenache noir)
1958: 25’ ha
1968: 52’ ha
1979: 78’ ha
1988: 87’ ha
1998: 92’ ha
2006: 99’ ha
Also a grape that has progressed much. Which in many ways is positive. It is
a relatively unknown grape that many think is uninteresting. But in the
hands of a competent winemaker it can produce excellent wines. E.g. in
Châteauneuf and in the Languedoc.
Ugni
blanc
1958: 62’ ha
1968: 94’ ha
1979: 127’ ha
1988: 102’ ha
1998: 96’ ha
2006: 83’ ha
A grape that is primarily used to produce the base wine for cognac, which is
the explanation for the extensive plantings.
In other words, until 1998 carignan was the most planted grape, but since
then it has declined dramatically.
The best chardonnay wines
The
competition Chardonnay du Monde has ranked the top chardonnay wines among
the 923 competing entries from 37 countries. One wine was awarded Great Gold
medal: Champagne Mandois 1er Cru Blanc de Blancs 2004, but 65 were given
Gold. You can find the full results here
www.chardonnay-du-monde.com
Denmark’s first commercial
vineyard celebrates 10 year anniversary
In 1999 a few crazy souls started Dansk VinCenter. They planted 10,000 vines
and thus became the first commercial vineyard in Denmark. In 2003 they
launched their first wine with the odd name Nordlund (it’s a bit like
calling a wine Smith or Jones in English). So this year they celebrate their
10th anniversary. Happy birthday! More info:
www.vincenter.dk
Garage wine show in
Copenhagen
Each year Dansk VinCenter organises the Garage Wine Fair in Copenhagen. This
year they have announced the date to be 23 August at 11.00 to 16.00. There
will be many wines to taste and good food on offer. Numerous importers and
producers will be represented. More info:
www.garagevin.com
Falling Bordeaux prices?
It
is still too early to say what will happen to the Bordeaux prices. The
presentation phase of the primeur campaign (wines from 2008) is now over and
we are moving to the “price game”. Up? Stable? Down? We will know in the
coming days and weeks. The UK market (most loudly) has clamoured for lower
prices. Among the very first (perhaps the only one so far) to “release” its
price for the 2008s is Chateau l’Angélus, owned by the business man Hubert
de Boüard. He has launched his wine at 50 euro, compared to 85 euro for the
2007 – down by 40%. de Boüard says that his primary markets are in a crisis
and that the 2008 is released at the same price as the 2004. One can then do
the reverse calculation and note that between 2004 and 2007 Angélus raised
their prices with 70%! So there is perhaps some margin for falling prices.
Not many suppliers get a 70% price increase in three years.
bordeauxwinenews.blogsudouest.com
New DOC in Piedmont: Alba
The regional regulators in Piedmont have approved a new DOC, adding to the
44 already present. To qualify for the new DOC Alba the wine has to contain
at least 70 % nebbiolo and 15 % barbera, the remaining being made up of
other local varieties. The reasons for creating yet another DOC are, it is
said, commercial. The city of Alba is internationally well known and will
perhaps attract new buyers…
www.italiaatavola.net
Lafite buys vineyard in
China
Lafite
(Domaines Baron Rothschild) has bought a vineyard in the Shangdong province
in China, in Penglai. They will initially plant 25 hectares of vines. The
investment is done in collaboration with the Chinese group CITIC. Read more:
newbordeaux.blog.co.uk
Barolo and its cru
all’italiana
Many Barolo producers have a tradition of indicating a specific vineyard on
the bottle. In Italy this is called Cru all’Italiana or singolo vigneto.
However, this is in no way regulated by laws or regulations. This is about
to change if the regional committee for DOCG Barolo has its way. The
intention is to delimit and define the vineyards (borders, names, etc) that
can be indicated on the label. If, that is, the Italian parliament gives it
green light to the plan. Then, the only thing that remains is to agree on
the details locally…
www.italiaatavola.net
Are wine bloggers
journalist? Do wine bloggers exist in the real world?
Are
you a journalist if you blog about wine? That’s the question that Gabriella
Opaz poses. She’s member of the British Circle of Wine Writers, CWW (just
like us at BKWine). The reason is that the chairman of the CWW, Julie Arkell,
has said in a letter to Off License News (OLN, a UK trade paper) that the
CWW do not accept memberships of bloggers, if blogging is their only
published activity. Gabriella is a member of the CWW and writes only on
Catavino.net, a blog, sort of. Perhaps somewhat of a storm in a tea cup
– if you are a “communicator” with a certain level of professionalism then
what does the medium matter? Read more on
wineblogger.info (On the picture: David Sifry, CEO of Technorati)
2.3 million euros for
indoctrination and propaganda
No,
we're not talking about the French anti-wine campaigns. 2.3 million euro (25
M SEK to be precise) is the budget that the Swedish retail monopoly
Systembolaget spends on advertising in a year, according to numbers released
at their AGM recently. But don’t get it wrong, they are not making publicity
for wine or spirits. The “advertising” they do is primarily telling the
Swedish people how lucky they are to have the Systembolaget monopoly, how
wonderful a job they do in making sure Swedes have a muuuch better wine
selection than in countries without a monopoly etc etc. The CEO Anitra Steen
says: “It is important to all the time talk about the mission we have
because if people are to continue supporting the monopoly they have to know
why we have a retail monopoly, how it works, and what the effects of it are,
and that’s what we talk about in our campaigns”. Every year they make a
survey to gauge the support. In the latest one they have just over 60%
support for the monopoly, up from less than 50% a few years ago. Is it very
remarkable when they spend 2.3 million euro each year on telling people how
wonderful they are?
The Systembolaget profit =
833 million SEK
The net profit for 2008 for Systembolaget AB, the Swedish retail alcohol
monopoly, reached 833 M SEK (76 M euro). Total turnover increased from 20.2
M SEK to 21.3 M SEK and sales measured in volume pure alcohol grew with
2.7%. The CEO, Anitra Steen, is keen to point out the benefits of having a
monopoly that is not profit motivated. Not motivated? Decent enough anyway.
World Wine Statistics:
World wine consumption down, but exports up
Consumption
of wine in 2008 shrunk with 2 million hl, but the world wine market is
becoming increasingly global. 37% of all wine produced were exported, i.e.
were drunk in another country than where it was made. That’s up from 18% in
the early 80s. World wine consumption is estimated to have reached 242,.9
Mhl in 2008, which is 2 Mhl less than in 2007. Ironically, it is primarily
the big wine producing countries that have seen the consumption fall. In the
“EU-15” people drank 2.2 Mhl less. It’s the first time in several years that
wine consumption falls. (Source: OIV)
World Wine Statistics:
Wine production stable at 269 Mhl
The total world wine production is estimated to have reached 269 Mhl in
2008. Within the EU production fell: 161.6 Mhl compared to 163.7 Mhl in
2007. Details: France -4.6 Mhl, Spain -2.2 Mhl, Italy +2.7 Mhl (!). For the
rest of the world, there is a very slight increase. (Source: OIV)
World Wine Statistics:
USA overtakes Italy in wine consumption
The item that has probably attracted the most attention is that the USA
passes Italy in wine consumption in 2008. They now drink more wine in the US
than in the old country: 27.3 Mhl (up with 0.8 Mhl) in the US compared to 26
Mhl (down 0.7 Mhl). That makes the US the world’s second wine consuming
market, after France where we gulp down 31.8 Mhl (down with only 0.4 Mhl in
spite of various government anti-wine measures). (Source: OIV)
World Wine Statistics:
Wine exports: Spain overtakes France, the New World steams ahead
The
world’s biggest wine exporter is Italy with 17.2 Mhl (down from 18.5 Mhl in
2007). In second place we now have Spain: 16.5 Mhl (15.1 Mhl) and in third
place France, with a big fall to 13.6 Mhl (compared to 15.2 in 2007). This
means that Spain passes France and becomes the world’s second largest wine
exporter. If you look at it in a longer perspective The New World is
steaming ahead and growing its exports: in 2008 it is estimated that the
“New World” accounts for 30% of world exports, compared to 60% for the EU’s
Big Five (gy, Sp, Fr, It, Po). In the first half of the 80s the numbers were
different: the New World 1.6% and The Big Five 76%. Keep in mind though that
the pie is now much bigger, so the “demise” of the old world does not mean
that they export less wine if you count in volume, only that they have lost
market share on a growing market, which is often forgotten. (Source: OIV)
Better sex drive for women
who drink red wine
Researchers
at the Santa Maria Annunziata Hospital in Florence have conducted a study that shows
that women who drink red wine lead a more active sex life. The study
included 789 women aged between 18 and 50. It showed that those who
regularly drank two glasses of red wine per day we much more sexually active
than those who drank nothing or only occasionally. Doses exceeding two
glasses seem not to have been investigated. Santa Maria – doesn’t that sound
like a monastic hospital? One wonders if a follow-up study might show that
Chianti is particularly effective. Read more:
www.vitisphere.com
Livingstone-Learmont wins
prize for Rhône bible
It’s a brick of a book, but then it contains just about everything you might
want to know on northern Rhône wines – written by John Livingstone-Learmont.
That’s his latest book but he has previously written others and many, many
wine articles on Rhône wines. He has now been decorated with the Albert
Golay prize 2009 for his contribution to Rhône wine fame (for the brick and
the rest). More:
www.vitisphere.com The prize was created to honour the memory of the
best French sommelier 1976. Read more about the book
on our book review page http://www.bkwine.com/vininformation/wine_books.htm
Have a news
item you'd like to see here or have a news tip? Send me an email:
winebrief@bkwine.com |
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Agenda |
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- -
France:
- -
Sweden:
- - UK,
Belgium, Switzerland, Spain, Denmark,...:
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17-19/4 2009, Chicago, USA: World
Wide Meetings America WWM,
www.wwm.fr |
 |
24-26/7, Napa: American Wine
Bloggers Conference,
http://winebloggersconference.org/america/ (NEW) |
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23/8, Copenhagen: Garagevin,
grage wine fair,
www.garagevin.com (NEW) |
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19/9, Copenhagen:
Rhône wine fair,
www.rhonevinfestival.dk (NEW) |
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30/10-1/11, Lisbon: European
Wine Bloggers' Conference,
winebloggersconference.org/europe/ (NEW) |
 |
25-27/5 2010, Hong Kong:
VinExpo Asia-Pacific,
www.vinexpo.com |
Wine auction
agendas:
Something we've missed? Send us suggestions for events to be added here:
winebrief@bkwine.com |
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Copyright
©
Britt Karlsson, BKWine
www.bkwine.com
info@bkwine.com
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