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Welcome to the BKWine Brief nr 62, September 2008
 

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Wine Tour program!

 

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It will be an interesting harvest this year. The weather have been playing hide-and-seek with many winegrowers in France, putting various sticks in the wheels. I just returned from the Rhône Valley where during one morning last week they had so much rain that many cellars flooded. Now they need some dry weather and wind to dry up the grapes. Added to their woes were hailstorms in June that in some places destroyed 30% of the harvest, and some problems with mildew. Plus an exceptionally cold August. Not easy to be a winegrower in the northern Rhône Valley this year.

In Alsace growers seem quite happy though. In Bordeaux, with a cool summer, the harvest will be 2 or 3 weeks late, but the weather outlook looks good with stable weather until the harvest and even some warmer temperatures – so there is hope. In Champagne they’ve also had a cool summer and expect a late and not very big harvest. Further south the picture is quite different: hot and dry, sometimes even very dry, bordering on a draught. Read more in our short harvest notes further down.

In Italy, where we also were last week, they have had (at least in Tuscany) an exceptionally hot summer and the grapes were small and very sweet. The excessive heat they have had almost gives you the impression that the weather gods are on edge, and sometimes it flips over – in several places across Tuscany (Chianti, Montalcino, Montepulciano) they have had hail storms that have caused damage in the vineyards. At Poliziano in Montepulciano for example they told us that one of their vineyards that this year celebrates 25 years since plantation, hail struck and destroyed virtually all the grapes. Not much of a birthday celebration there… The Tuscan harvest has just started in places ripening early but most areas will wait another week or two. The day before we left we had a terrible thunderstorm and pouring rain (over most of Tuscany) but it seems to be a one off thing – for the rest of the harvest the outlook looks better and the short burst of rain should not make much damage since grapes were very healthy. We will have to wait and see.

Over the coming weeks we will continue around the wine districts – Alsace, Burgundy, Champagne, Veneto, Portugal… - so we will no doubt be back with more reports.

And if this makes you tempted to go visit some vineyards we have just launched the spring 2009 wine tour program. I can promise you some excellent wines and some really tempting food. The first trip takes you to the French South-West, the Périgord, where we will go truffle hunting, learn how to cook duck and of course visit some of the region’s top wine producers. This is followed by Portugal, where you can meet spring in a lush and green Alentejo and enjoy the new-wave Portuguese wines and their specialities, e.g. the pata negra ham…

Britt

PS: Recommend to your friends to read the Brief or forward it to them !



Most images are clickable!

All previous issues of the Brief are here: Archive

 
News from BKWine

Autumn 2008 program

bulletOctober 22-26, Douro, Porto in Northern Portugal

Fully booked.

bulletNovember 12-16, Wine & Gastronomy in champagne

040923-139-3934Champagne... Luxury, celebration and of course excellent wines. But champagne is not just wines. There is also an outstanding gastronomy that we will pay special attention to on this trip. We will visit some world famous champagne houses and some small high-quality family producers. And we will enjoy the Champenoise gastronomy at our dinners (in a one-star restaurant!) and at the lunches, some of which will be with, and as guests of, champagne producers. Is drinking champagne all through a meal a good idea? Decide for yourself! More info on the Champagne wine tour!

Spring 2009 program

bulletFebruary 11-15: Truffle, wine, duck and foie gras in the south west of France

an18-327-2722Have you always dreamed of going truffle hunting? Now you have the opportunity. Join us in February on this trip to the south west of France – le Sud-Ouest. We truffle hunt, learn how to make foie gras and, of course, taste a lot of good wines too.
More info on this wine tour!

bulletMarch 25-29: Alentejo in Portugal, one of the most exciting and modern Portuguese wine regions

bf17-403-0396In Portugal you find tradition and innovation side by side. Many of the wineries are recent and with leading edge technology, but that does not prevent them from sometimes treading the grapes by foot. The traditional style of Portuguese wines has been generally replaced by a decidedly modern winemaking style. The best producers build on tradition, e.g. by using Portuguese grape varieties, and use modern technology to make fruity and very drinkable wines, and certainly some very high quality cuvees. More info on this wine tour!

You can find the pictures on  www.bkwine.com/wine_pictures/photo_galleries.htm

 
Recommendations
A selection of what we have tried, tasted or visited recently.

 □  Producers

Domaine Coume del Mas, Collioure
Coume del Mas is close to the village Cousprou, between Collioure and Banyuls. The soil is poor, dominated by slate that gives a strong backbone and fresh acidity to the wines. The main grape variety is Grenache. The property is built up of many small plots acquired over the last ten years by the owner Philippe Gard. Some are close to the sea; others are at 300 m altitude inland, facing east. Here the climate is a bit cooler than by the sea, especially at night. But even the plots close to the sea get a bit of freshness from the sea breezes. The yields are low, very low – only 10 to 15 hl/ha! The wines are, of course, concentrated.
Click here for address and more recommendations.

Domaine Roc des Anges, Côtes de Roussillon
Marjorie Gallet was only 23 when she in 2001, without a penny in her pocket, decided to settle in Roussillon to become winegrower. She had an opportunity to buy an old property of 10 ha thirty kilometres north of Perpignan and has added some land since so she now has 20 ha. But she only makes 45,000 bottles each year since her yields are miniscule, not more than 16 hl/ha. This is, she says, because the vines are old and the soil is very poor, and the climate is hot and very windy. Perhaps we need to add to that her ambition to make very concentrated and well constructed wines? Try for instance the Roc des Anges 2006 Segna de Cor. A full-bodied, powerful wine but that retains a lot of fruit mixed with aromas of chocolate, tobacco, leather and ripe grapes.
Click here for address and more recommendations.

Read about more recommended producers on the site: Favourite Producers

Read more recommendations on where to shop for wine on my Wine Shop Page

Read more recommendations on restaurants and winebars on my Restaurant and Wine Bar page.

 
News from the Wine World

Launch of spring wine tour program 2009
bf17-403-0396BKWine has launched the spring program 2009 with two new wine and food tours. The destinations include Périgord (with truffles, duck and wine), and the wins and food of the Alentejo in Portugal. The detailed programs are available on www.bkwine.com. “The trend towards active holidays seems to continue” says Britt Karlsson, founder of BKWine, “so I think that the two spring tours will fill up quickly”. Britt continues: “I am particularly happy that travellers have started to discover that springtime is also a good time for wine and food travel. There’s no harvest, of course, but there are plenty of things happening in the wine cellars. Plus summer is approaching with brighter evenings and warmer weather”.

The two tours on the spring program are both classics:
- Truffles, foie gras and wine in the Périgord (south-west France), including a real truffle hunt, a half day cooking workshop with duck and foie gras, and wine of course, February 11-15
- The Alentejo in Portugal, a wine region that is on the forefront of the modern winemaking in Portugal, with gourmet specialities like the pata negra ham, March 25-29

New wine videos
We have published four new wine videos on BKWine TV, our channel on YouTube. Did you know that you can subscribe to the new videos we publish? Just click on ‘subscribe’ on YouTube and you will receive an email each time there’s a new video online. And we’re particularly glad if you take the time to write a comment on one of our videos or give it a rating. Here are the new clips:

- Chateau Petrus, a visual visit
- Chateau Tour des Gendres in Bergerac
- Truffle hunting with a truffle dog in the Bergerac (perhaps it will tickle your taste buds and make you join our truffles hunting tour in February…)
- Domaine de l’Ancienne Cure in Bergerac and Monbazillac.

Robert Parker likes Austrian wines
In the latest versions of eRobertParker David Schildknecht (one of Parker’s collaborators) rates and comments on Austrian wines. Of the 500 wines that are covered just over 200 are rated as “outstanding” (i.e. gets more than 90 points). All wines are from the 2006 vintage. Schildknecht especially likes the Blaufränkisch wines. www.weinausoesterreich.at and www.erobertparker.com

The CEO of Systembolaget, the Swedish monopoly, to resign
Anitra Steen has announced her resignation, well in advance of May 2009, which is the date she has set for the end of her term as CEO of the Swedish monopoly wine and spirits retailer Systembolaget AB. At that date she will have been in charge of the company for 10 years and will celebrate her 60th birthday. 60 years is also the obligatory retirement age for a CEO at the company.

Budget Travel features Britt/BKWine: travel tips and Bergerac
In the August issue of Budget Travel, an American travel magazine, they have an article featuring the ten best travel tips for a wine tour traveller – based on an interview with Britt (that hardly needs any further presentation here). You can read the article here: www.budgettravel.com

In the same issue they also have an article about one of Britt’s “hidden gems”, a destination that is not so well know but definitely worth discovering: Bergerac in the south-west of France, with plenty of good food and excellent wine. Read the article here www.budgettravel.com. And that’s also a region where you find the famous black Perigord truffles that you can discover on BKWines Truffle Hunting Tour in February! http://www.bkwine.com/wine_tours/wine_tours.htm

The harvest has started in Bordeaux
The harvest will be later than usual this year, due to the cool summer. But the ‘ceuillette’ for the white wines has already started. For example, at Chateau Carbonnieux, a winery in Pessac-Léognan / Graves that makes both red and white wine, the picking of the sauvignon blanc grapes commenced on September 5. But they don’t expect to start the red grape harvest until the beginning of September.

Mediterranean meeting for muscat with pudding promotion
Excuse us the heading – it is question of the third annual rencontres for Muscat VDN wines (vins doux naturels) together with the ‘Le Roussillon Dessert Trophy’ that will take place in Perpignan on January 31 to February 2, 2009 in Roussillon. It is an occasion for professionals, for wine buyers, and for the public to meet the VDN winemakers and taste many of their wines. The Dessert Trophy features the best VDN wine and sweets combinations and the finals will take place in the famous international patisserie school of Olivier Bajard. More info www.vinsduroussillon.com

Best French sommelier competition on November 9 & 10 in Perpignan
The finals for the Best French Sommelier competition will this year take place in Perpignan, hosted by the Wines of Roussillon. 12 candidates, double up from the last issue of the competition in 2006 will for the trophy this year. More info from the CIVR or ABCommunication.

Something ‘nouveau’ in the Muscat?
Since 2006 a Muscat de Noel (Christmas Muscat wine) is launched just in time to be enjoyed around the Christmas tables. From this year it will be a special designation available to wines within the AOC Muscat de Rivesaltes provided they comply with the requirements: being a primeur wine and bottled before December 1 following the harvest. It will certainly go better than a Beaujolais with the sweets on the Christmas table. More info: www.muscatdenoel.fr

The great tasting in Paris…
Le Grand Tasting they call it… It is a big wine fair and, yes, tasting that is open to both the public and professionals and will take place this year on November 21 and 22 at the Caroussel du Louvre in Paris. Numerous quality wine producers from all over France will participate and this year there will also be representatives from Italy and from Spain. More info www.grandtasting.com and www.bvizioz.com.

EcceVino.com – new French wine site with tasting notes
David Cobbold is a well known English wine writer based in Paris. Together with a French colleague, Sebastien Durand-Viel, he has launched a new French language site featuring tasting notes and commentaries as well as longer articles on wine and also a wine encyclopaedia. Read more here: http://www.eccevino.com

Champagne Light?
Champagne is bottled in heavy, solid bottles so that they will not burst from the pressure inside the bottle. A typical champagne bottles weighs in at around 900 grams, almost double a regular bottle. CIVC, the champagne producers’ association, has asked Mumm Champagne to trial a lighter bottle, weighing only 835 g, a reduction by a massive 55 g… The light weight bottles should make transports easier and cheaper (you can fit more bottles on a lorry if they weigh less). The trial has now been successfully concluded and Champ Light might now be adopted by more producers, according to a report in the Financial Times. However, Pommery/ Vranken already uses the lighter 835 g bottle and the empty Heidsieck bottle that we unfortunately had at home (unfortunately, since it was empty) was at 845 g, so it does not seem that much of a revolution. But according to Pommery there would be 3000 fewer trucks on the roads if everyone used the lighter bottle. Just think of what savings there would be with an aluminium bottle. www.ft.com

Burgundy information
Are you looking for information about Burgundy? Or perhaps thinking of making a trip? They it can be worth your while to visit the BurgundyEye.com site with lots of tourism and wine info: http://www.burgundyeye.com/

2008 – hot and dry in Roussillon
Many European wine regions have had a cool and dreary summer, even if it has not been too wet. Almost the opposite is the case in Roussillon in southern France. They have had a hot and dry summer leading to an unusually early harvest. Some wineries started picking as early as August 11 but the harvest will continue for another few weeks (as we are writing in the first half of Sep). There were a few rain showers on the last day of August and the beginning of September but nothing that had any substantially negative effect, thanks to the healthy grapes in the vineyards. Overall they expect to have a moderate volume but excellent quality.

Draught in California
California is seeing the lowest water levels in 30 years in some of its water reservoirs. If the lack of rain continues 2009 is likely to be the driest year in Californian modern history. What consequences that will have for California’s vineyards remain to be seen. www.sfgate.com

Truffles and Pata Negra? - “It doesn’t get much better!”
For sure, it makes you happy. We launched the BKWine spring travel program last week and it’s always nice if someone notices it, especially if it’s a Google Page Rank 8 or Alexa Rank 86 site (for the non-nerds, this means one of the web’s most popular travel sites). James Martin, one of the travel editors on About.com GoEurope picked up our information on our truffles tour and our Portuguese tour (with pata negra ham) - ”It Doesn't Get Much Better Than This!”. But it will be difficult to fit both the pata negra and the truffles on the same trip so you’ll have to go on both wine tours. Here’s the GoEurope story: http://goeurope.about.com

Here’s a new BKWine TV video from our last truffle hunting tour. And it’s on the schedule again in February so if you’re tempted to go ‘hunting’ and tasting some wine you know where to find it: www.youtube.com/truffles

Champagne harvest started on September 15
On September 15 the harvest began in Champagne. They have had a cool but reasonably dry summer so the expectations are for a comparatively small quantity but with healthy grapes. The maximum yield has been agreed to 13,600 kg grapes per hectare (exactly what that translates to in hl/ha is difficult to say but it should be around 80-90 hl/ha). http://www.winealley.com

Beaucastel buys Tourelles in Gigondas
Or to be more precise, the Perrin family, owners of the famous Domaine de Beaucastel in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, has bought the Domaine des Tourelles in Gigondas. Tourelles is a highly regarded Gigondas vineyard with 9 ha of vines. www.vitisphere.com

Avignonesi in Tuscany sold to Belgian investor
One of the top producers in Montalcino In Tuscany has been sold to the Belgian business woman Virginie Saverys. The Falvi family will retain a 10% shareholding. Avignonesi has 109 ha of vineyards split on four estates, Le Capezzine, I Poggetti, La Selva and La Lombarda in Montalcino, just south of Chianti. www.wine-business-international.com

Barca Velha 2000 – a new release of a mythical Portuguese wine
Barca Velha was long thought of as the only Portuguese table wine in the top quality echelons. Today, there is much more company in that category in Portugal thanks to the fabulous renaissance that Portuguese winemaking has seen over the last few decades. But Barca Velha undoubtedly retain it’s status as an almost mythological wine. It is made in the upper Douro valley and belongs nowadays to the Sogrape Group, one of Portugal’s biggest wine producers. The vintage 2000 has just been released in 26,000 bottles and 1500 magnums. The release price is €75. wine-business-international.com

French wine beats Australian Shiraz to first place in Aussie competition
The French have had to get used to hearing about the 1970s competition (recently rerun, and filmed) where an American wine won first place, in front of some of the top French wines. So it will no doubt warm the French heart when the opposite happens in Australia. In the Australian competition “World’s Greatest Shiraz” with 800 competing wines made from shiraz / syrah, first place went to the French wine Château d’Ampuis Côte Rôtie 2004 from Guigal. And Guigal also won the third place with Côte Rôtie Brune et Blonde 2004. The Australians had to settle for a second place with Henschke’s Hill of Grace 2004. wine-business-international.com

Have a news item you'd like to see here or have a news tip? Send me an email: winebrief@bkwine.com

 
Agenda

- - France:

bullet

21-22/11, Paris: Le Grand Tasting, Caroussel du Louvre, www.grandtasting.com (NEW)

bullet

31/1-2/2 2009, Perpignan: Rencontre du Muscat, www.vinsduroussillon.com (NEW)

bullet

21-25/6 2009, Bordeaux: Vinexpo, www.vinexpo.com

bullet

2-4/7 2009, Angers: In Vino Analytica Scientia, www.angers.inra.fr

- - Sweden:

bullet

11/10, Östersund: wine fair in Östersund, http://www.munskankarna-z.se/html/vinmassa.html  

bullet

24-25/10, Örebro: Fine Wines & Champagne at the Badhuset, www.dinmasspartner.nu

- - UK, Belgium, Switzerland, Spain, Denmark,...:

bullet

20/9, Copenhagen: Rhone Festival, www.rhonefestival.dk

bullet

17-19/10, Florens: MeetingWine, wine buyer show, www.meetinginternational.it

Wine auction agendas:

bullet Sotheby's
bullet Christie's
bullet Bruun Rasmussen (Denmark)
bullet Thomas Høiland (Denmark)
bullet Zachys (USA)

Something we've missed? Send us suggestions for events to be added here: winebrief@bkwine.com 

 
Post Scriptum
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Copyright © Britt Karlsson, BKWine
www.bkwine.com
info@bkwine.com

 




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