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Swedish version available here (click this link).

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Welcome to the
BKWine Brief nr 60, July 2008 |
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Summer is in full swing
even if our weather here doesn’t quite live up to it. A few nice wines
will always help to cheer up the gloom. From near and from afar. The
other day we drank a wine from Georgia – an interesting mix of Cabernet
and Saperavi. Oh, and it's the country Georgia in Eastern Europe, not
the US version. The very same day I happened to see that the
Systembolaget, the Swedish monopoly retailer, will be launching not just
one but two Georgian wines in September. For one of them they have
bought 14,000 bottles. The Systembolaget (who is the monopoly retailer)
must be counting on that there is a great demand for Georgian wines in
Scandinavia. They should know, I guess. They have a market research
department that makes a three year strategic plan for future launches
and all… But why shouldn’t a wine made from Saperavi sell well? It’s a
very expressive grape variety and many wine drinkers are curious to try
new things. But perhaps the Georgians wouldn’t quite agree to that label
(“new”). After all, in that part of the world the first wines were made
some 7000 years ago. It is said.
Here’s something to think
about while your sipping your wine in the shade: Can you tell if a wine
has been made by a male or female winemaker? I was talking to a wine
person the other day (a man as it were) in Bordeaux and he was convinced
that men and women make different wines and that the winemaker puts a
very personal touch on the wine. On the latter part I think we can all
agree. But he also said that women make lighter wines and men make more
aggressive wines… A controversial thought perhaps.
If you read this during
your vacation perhaps you have some time to spare to read a book. In
this Brief we have two rather original books to review, one that is a
poetry book on wine and the other that is on health. It is written by a
doctor and researcher who has concluded that wine is good for your
health. So I would urge you to take a look at our wine tour program.
There are places still available on the wine and gastronomy tour to
Champagne in November and I’ve just put up the dates for next seasons
tours (Portugal, and Wine, Truffle, and Foie Gras). Sign up for one of
our tours and perhaps you can put it down on your medical expenses
account!
Enjoy summer if you’re on
vacation – or if you’re not!
Britt
PS: Recommend to your
friends to read the Brief or forward it to them ! |

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News from BKWine |
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Autumn 2008
program

Douro
is one of the world’s most famous wine rivers. Here, in this dramatically
beautiful landscape in northern Portugal, grapes are grown on steep,
terraced slopes. The climate is dry and hot and the grapes are picked
perfectly ripe. These grapes are made into port wine and increasingly into
a full bodied, tasty red table wine.
More info on the Douro wine tour!
Champagne...
Luxury, celebration and of course excellent wines. But champagne is not
just wines. There is also an outstanding gastronomy that we will pay
special attention to on this trip. We will visit some world famous
champagne houses and some small high-quality family producers. And we will
enjoy the Champenoise gastronomy at our dinners (in a one-star
restaurant!) and at the lunches, some of which will be with, and as guests
of, champagne producers. Is drinking champagne all through a meal a good
idea? Decide for yourself!
More info on the Champagne wine tour!
Spring 2009
program
Here are the dates. Detailed
programs will be available soon.
 | February
11-15: Truffle, wine, duck and foie gras in the south west of France
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 | April
25-29: Alentejo in Portugal, one of the most exciting and modern
Portuguese wine regions |
Finnish
Wine Tours - Viinimatkoja Ranskan viinialueille!

Tours
on the schedule (in Finnish):
 | 3.-7. syyskuuta 2008:
Pohjois-Rhônen-laaksoon
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Nauti
pidennetystä kesästä ja tutustu samalla Syrah- rypäleen salaisuuksiin.
Täällä Pohjois-Rhônen –laaksossa tuotetaan lähinnä punaviiniä, saamme myös
tilaisuuden tutustua alueen kukkaisiin Viognier- viineihin sekä
täyteläisiin Marsanne/Roussanne-viineihin. Lisätietoa !
More info here!
You can find the pictures on
www.bkwine.com/wine_pictures/photo_galleries.htm |
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Recommendations |
| A selection of
what we have tried, tasted or visited recently.
□
Producers
Domaine Marc Kreydenweiss,
Alsace
Marc
Kreydenweiss is one of our big favourites in Alsace. He’s an outstanding
winemaker and with biodynamic agriculture and low yields (in a region where
producers often harvest 80 hl/ha) he produces excellent, complex wines with
a depth that few others achieve. You find him in the small village Andlau a
short distance north of Colmar, along the very beautiful route de vin. He
has a modest 10 ha around the village in some of the best locations, e.g.
Grand Cru Moenchberg and GC Kastelberg where he makes a supreme Riesling.
Kreydenweiss, together with his wife Emmanuelle, also makes excellent red
wine in the Domaine des Perrières property in Costières de Nîmes in southern
Rhône.
Click here for address and more recommendations.
Château Pey La Tour,
Bordeaux, Bordeaux Supérieur
A
biggish and well-maintained property with 170 ha of vines in the heart of
Entre-deux-Mers. Since 1990 it belongs to the négociant
CVBG-Dourthe-Kressman and they have put a substantial 4€M of investments
into it. They have increased the planting density, lowered the yields, are
monitoring water stress with GPS etc and all has contributed to improving
the quality. According to Dourthe, the size of the property means that there
are several different soil types and micro climate variations that
contribute to the complexity of the wines. The wine is primarily made from
Merlot – 82% of the vineyards are planted with that variety. In spite of the
large volume, more than 1 million bottles, they maintain a very good
quality, starting with the Bordeaux “tout court” for some 4€ to their
Bordeaux Supérieur for around 10€.
Click here for address and more recommendations.
Read about more recommended
producers on the site:
Favourite Producers
□ Wine
Bars and Restaurants
Paris:
Sorza, Paris 4
Strolling along the river on the Ile Saint-Louis is something that both
tourists and Parisians love to do. A relatively new restaurant on the main
street (almost the only street…) is Sorza. It is not big and it fills up
quickly so booking is recommended. The walls are red and the tables are
black and art hangs on the walls. And the food is beautifully presented on
the plates. It is an ambitious cuisine with distinct Italian influences. We
do recommend the parmesan soufflé. Excellent risotto with gambas, tender and
succulent veal chops, to mention a few things. The wine list is short… but
well chosen. Count on around 30€ for lunch and a bit more for dinner.
Click here for address and more recommendations.
Read more recommendations on
restaurants and winebars on
my Restaurant and Wine Bar page. |
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News from the Wine World |
Wine from
northern Greece
I’m
probably not alone in having some pré-jugées about Greek wines. A bit like,
OK, a bottle of retsina can go down once in a (not very frequent) while, but
hardly more than that.
But there is actually much,
much more than that in Greek wines! Not least in northern Greece, in
Macedonia. There you find high mountains (very high!) and sometimes rough
climate, both promising well for quality wines. The “only” thing that
remains is to convince people that that’s the case. Stellios Boutari at the
Kir-Yianni winery (one of the best) says that their biggest problem today is
an image problem - the stereotypes people have about Greece: “We don’t have
any easy-to-remember catch phrase. And we have too many
(difficult-to-remember) local grape varieties”. But these grape varieties
are perhaps what might be Greece’s best weapon he thinks. But it’s not easy
to introduce grapes with unpronounceable names to an international market.
Yannis Voyatzis, chief oenologist at the much bigger Boutari company, is
less hesitant: “The future is the Greek varieties. Who needs another
Chardonnay? The Greek varieties have plenty of character”.
And that is certainly true. The white Assyrtiko and the red Xinomavro give
us new and different flavours and treated well these varieties have
definitely a potential to be a success on the export markets. Like for
instance the white wine from Domaine Gerovassiliou made from Assyrtiko and
Malagousia with lots of spices and herbs. Evangelo Gerovassiliou spend 23
years at Chaâteau Carras in Halkidiki, the winery that was perhaps the first
pioneer for Greek wines. Here are a few northern Greek wineries to keep a
lookout for: Kir-Yianni, Alpha Estate, Biblia Chora, Tsantali, Pavlidis,
Boutari, Wine Art Estate, and Amyntaion Coop.
New Zealand grape varieties
New Zealand is best known for its very fragrant sauvignon blanc wines, with
much ”SB” typicity, yet full-bodied. But all is not sauvignon in Kiwi land.
This is the split between different grape varieties according to statistics
from the New Zealand Winegrowers:
- Sauvignon blanc 76%
- Pinot noir 7%
- Chardonnay 5%
- Merlot 2%
- Cabernet (incl cabernet blends) 1%
- Pinot gris 1%
- Riesling 1%
- Other 3%
- Sparkling 3%
South African exports grow
The exports of south African wine continue to grow. In 2007 the sales
increased in all but two of the top ten export countries, the two exceptions
being the Netherlands and France. 49% of exports is white wine, 45% is red,
and 6% is rosé. The biggest growth markets were New Zealand (+236%, but from
a small base) and Germany (+43%).
UK 82 million litres
Germany 59 Ml
Netherlands 29 Ml
Sweden 26 Ml
Denmark 13 Ml
Canada 13 Ml
USA 11 Ml
Europe’s first congress for
wine educators held in Austria
The recently created European Academy of Wine Education (EAWE) has held its
first congress in Austria. Representatives from 16 countries participated in
the meeting. One of the outcomes of the meeting was that the EAWE will
transform into a formal association with the aim work on wine education
issues across Europe. More info here.
http://www.winesfromaustria.com/news/info_080618.html
Saint Emilion
classification, suspension in suspension in suspension
The
rules for the St Emilion classification (Grand Cru Classé) stipulate that
every ten years the ranking should be re-done. At the latest re-ordering of
the chateau some properties were pushed out and the owners of those chateaux
were not very happy. The argued that the “jury” making the classification
had been partial because, among other things, it had included some of the
owners of the chateaux that were under scrutiny. So they took their case to
court and won. The classification was annulled (or suspended). That ruling
was of course appealed against and the higher court decided to annul the
suspension. The case then went to an even higher court in Bordeaux which
recently pronounced its decision: they ruled that the new St Emilion
classification must not be used. So now, for the moment, there is no St
Emilion GCC… Why not just simply scrap the classification and let the
consumers decide what they think the wines are worth?
decanter.com
Legendary Loire producer
leaves his vineyard
Jo
Pithon, one of the producers who have put Anjou on the map for excellent dry
and sweet whites from the heavily underrated chenin blanc grape, has left
the vineyard carrying his name. A few years ago he sold 90% of his Domaine
to Philip Fournier, a local businessman, but continued to be in charge of
it. (We don’t know why Pithon sold in the first place. Perhaps the property
needed capitals to continue develop?) Together they then bought the Chateau
de Chamboureau, a leading property in the neighbouring Savennières
appellation. But the happy marriage did not last forever. Jo Pithon has now
left the Domaine Jo Pithon and rumour has it that he may be looking for
another domaine.
Norwegian wins Nordic
sommelier trophy
Meret Bøe took first place in the Nordic Sommelier Championship recently
held in Norway. She is working as sommelier at the Bagatelle restaurant in
Oslo. Second and third place was won by Sören Polonius (Sweden, Restaurant
F12) and Susanne Berglund Krantz (Sweden, Gondolen). More info
vinkelner.com
Meeting Wine – a meeting for
those who look for Italian wines October 17-19
Meeting Wine is a wine show/meeting place specifically targeting
international buyers looking for Italian wines from Piedmont, Tuscany and
southern Italy. Some 60 wine producers will be represented with
opportunities to organise face-to-face meetings. Meeting Wine takes place in
Florence on October 17-19. More info
www.meetinginternational.it
Scandinavian Grand Slam in
chef-Olympics Bocuse d’Or
This
year, for the first time ever, the Bocuse d’Or competition (the “World
Cuisine Contest”) was held outside of Lyons in France. It took place in
Stavanger in Norway. The Bocuse d’Or is a competition for professional chefs
from all over the world. The winner in this year’s competition was Geir
Skeie from the Sovold restaurant in Norway. Second place went to Denmark
Jesper Kure) and third to Sweden (Jonas Lundgren)! 20 countries were
competing for the trophy.
bocusedor.com
Chateau Vignelaure changes
hands
Chateau Vignelaure is one of the best known wine producers in Provence. It
was recently sold to a Swedish-Danish couple, Bengt Sundström and Mette Rode
Sundström. The seller was the Irish couple Catherine and David O’Brian. The
property will now be run by the French oenologist Philippe Bru with
winemaking experience not only from France but also from Australia, Spain
and Chile.
www.vignelaure.com
Organic wine farming growing
in France
Organically farmed vineyards have increased substantially in France: up with
20% compared with a fall in the total surface of vineyards with 2.3%. But
the total of 22,000 ha organic vineyards still only represent 2.6% of the
total of French vineyards. Organic farming is most popular in the
Languedoc-Roussillon region, where it is also comparatively risk free thanks
to the hot and dry weather.
vitisphere.com
Red sparkling Beaujolais?
Perhaps it will be the saviour for the hard hit wine growers in Beaujolais
who today have difficulties selling their wines? Sicarex in Beaujolais has
has produced an experimental version of a red sparkling wine made from Gamay
grapes. The vinification started with a high-temperature maceration before
fermentation, to extract colour and soft tannins, followed by a pressing and
fermentation of the by then coloured must. The base wine then underwent a
second fermentation in bottle according to the méthode traditionelle. They
made two versions: brut (dry, with 10 g/l residual sugar) and demi-sec
(sweet, at 33 g/l). In a fit of inspiration they called the wine Red Bulle (bulle
being French for bubble). We look forward to seeing (and tasting) this in
real life…
vitisphere.com
Finnish wine threatens the
EU CAP agricultural policy?
Apparently, Mr Fredrik Slotte on the Finnish island of Aland in the Baltic
Sea grows vines on a small vineyard. He hopes to soon produce some 100
bottles of wine. The problem is that this Finnish vineyard came to the
attention of someone in the EU agricultural administration and made him
think: “If the climate up there is warm enough to grow wine in Finland, why
should we then pay a lot of money for agricultural support to Finland for
agriculture in an artic climate?”... Is this true? We read it in the
New York Times!
Bordeaux primeurs 2007 finds
a tough market
The primeur season for the Bordeaux 2007s has ended and it seems to be, just
like our summer weather, with a lot of clouds in the sky. The international
market is notably less interested in the wines this year. Or at least, the
reaction seems to be “it’s too expensive”. It is most of all the UK and the
US markets that have lost interest (and that’s two big markets!). Even if
the prices have gone down compared to last year (between 5% and 40%) the
level is considered too high. But then one can keep in mind the fantastic
prise hikes we have seen over the preceding years. The demand is a bit
better from Japan, Switzerland and Belgium, and in particular from the
French supermarket chains, but hardly enough to compensate for the UK and
the US. Read more on
Bloomberg and on
AFP.
Does the cork breathe?
This question has been more hotly debated since the screw cap arrived on the
scene. According to a study at the faculty of oenology at the Bordeaux
University the answer is yes. The study, made in collaboration with the cork
producer Amorim, concludes that the cork gives a small but measurable
contribution of oxygen to the wine, primarily thanks to what is trapped in
the cork cell structure itself. An older study by the professor Jean
Ribéreau-Gayon found that a bottle closed with cork had an addition of
oxygen of 0.1 to 0.38 ml over the first three weeks and between 0 and 0.07
ml over the four following months. The cork advocates say that this is
beneficial for the aging of the wine and that it reduces the risk of a
“reduced” (as opposed to oxidised) character in the wine. Enthusiasts for
the screw cap do not quite agree of course.
Finnish wine and gastronomy
fair in August
For the second year in a row, Virpi Sorvisto organises a wine and gastronomy
fair in Kokkola (Karleby) in Finland on August 15 and 16. Both days will be
filled with interesting tastings and presentations. The Finnish chocolatier
Jonas Hoffsten will present the exclusive Amedei chocolate and explain what
to drink to it; the TV chef Aki Wahlman will have cooking presentations; and
BKWine will do wine tastings on the Languedoc and on new trends in French
winemaking (both in Swedish and English). And much more. There will be many
wine importers there to present, and let you taste, their wines. A special
section is dedicated to gastronomic specialities – that you also can buy at
the fair. Not to forget the champagne tastings in the wine bar… For more
information contact Virpi Sorvisto:
www.vistovin.fi or phone +358 50 3380080.
Have a news
item you'd like to see here or have a news tip? Send me an email:
winebrief@bkwine.com |
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Book Reviews |
Angels,
Thieves and Winemakers
By: Joseph Mills
Publisher: Press 53
This
is actually a poetry book and not a traditional wine book! Joseph Mills has
previously written a wine guide to the wines and wineries of North Carolina
(!). But he has a PhD in American literature so one can understand that the
subject inspired him to some more esoteric texts – the just over 50 poems
found in this book. So if you have had enough of grape varieties, planting
density and micro-oxygenation this will make for a nice change. A sample
from the beginning of the poem titled Aging: To speak of a wine’s future /
is to speak of our own desires, / how we hope as we age / that we’ll become
more / harmonious, less acidic, / that our tannins will mellow.
Buy the book |
More book reviews
The Wine Diet
By: Roger Corder
Publisher: Sphere
The
author is professor of Experimental Therapeutics at the William Harvey
Research Institute but also a wine enthusiast. The book tells us how we can
live a healthier, better life with a daily, moderate consumption of wine. It
is not just a technical review of what substances in wine are good for you.
It also explains a bit about the history of wine and health, various
research that has been done, about other foodstuff that can have a positive
impact on health (fruit, berries, chocolate…). He also gives us some recipes
as well as suggestions for healthy diets. And he recommends which wines are
particularly good for you! He has a special section dedicated to the wines
of Madiran in south-western France, that he considers produces particularly
healthy wines. One of the chapters is called “Eat well, have fun – and
improve your health” which certainly sounds like a good catchphrase for the
book. Certainly an entertaining read for anyone interested in health or
medicine.
Buy the book |
More book reviews
Click here for more book reviews on my site. You will also
find links to on-line book shops on that page. |
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Agenda |
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France:
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Sweden:
- - UK,
Belgium, Switzerland, Spain, Denmark,...:
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14-16/8, Oregon: Wine
Economists Conference,
www.wine-economics.org |
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15-16/8, Karleby / Kokkola,
Finland: Wine and gastronomy show,
www.vistovin.fi (NEW) |
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20/9, Copenhagen: Rhone Festival,
www.rhonefestival.dk |
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17-19/10, Florens: MeetingWine,
wine buyer show,
www.meetinginternational.it (NEW) |
Wine auction
agendas:
Something we've missed? Send us suggestions for events to be added here:
winebrief@bkwine.com |
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Post Scriptum |
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Copyright
©
Britt Karlsson, BKWine
www.bkwine.com
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