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Swedish version available here (click this link).
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Welcome to the
BKWine Brief nr 59, June 2008 |
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Summer
wines
In northern Europe they
have summer already. Swedes are complaining (or not) about 30 degrees.
Here in Paris we have so far a dismal beginning of the summer. Just
barley over half the temperature in Sweden… In summer, in particular,
rosé wines are scoring record sales in many countries now. People are
sipping pink wine just like those with lives of leisure in Provence. And
perhaps that is because many rosé wines are now actually quite good. I
hardly thought I'd ever say that. For long, I have been looking the
other way when rosé was offered but not so any longer.
And you know what? I even
like Beaujolais! Rosé and Beaujolais used to be the wines I avoided in
the beginning of my vinous life. Well, I'm allowed to change my mind, am
I not? Every well made wine has the right to a place in the world of
wine. So if you get enough of rosé for some time – if summer heat stays
for long as we all hope – try a Beaujolais. It can be excellent,
provided you serve it cool, never more than 14 degrees centigrade. In
fact, Beaujolais is quite a unique wine. Few wines can boast this fine,
fresh fruit, absolutely devoid of oak aromas. Made from an almost unique
grape, grown in very few other places. A visit to a few Beaujolais
producers a couple of weeks ago showed this eminently. Beaujolais
deserves a renaissance! Of course, not all Beaujolais wines are
excellent. Sometimes you get a bit too much of the artificial
tutti-frutti aromas or the sweetish fruit. But on the other hand, which
wine region does not have its ups and downs? None. You just have to
choose your wine grower carefully.
And of course, your taste
develops and changes the more you taste and the more you learn. Some
French producers have a theory that New World wines are good because
they are for "beginners", making for an easy approach to wine, and once
the wine drinkers learn more and get a more sophisticated taste they
move on to more complex and elegant wines … from France! That is no
doubt not far from the truth for those wine drinkers who are interested
in wine. Not because New World wines are simple and French wines are
sophisticated, but because you always want to discover new things, new
wines and new countries. So they move on from the New World to France,
or to Italy, or to something else … or the other way around.
I'm on my way tomorrow to
discover a "new" (for me) wine country: Greece. I suspect I won't have a
single glass of Retsina during the trip. But you never know. Even
Retsina might be enjoyable in the right environment. With some antique
ruins in the background.
Wine
tours for the autumn
Don't forget to plan your
autumn wine tour before you leave on vacation! Perhaps a trip to the
wine region of wine regions: to Bordeaux. Or (I was almost going to say
the opposite) a region that has transformed itself beyond recognition as
a table wine producer during the last decades, to the Douro valley in
Portugal. Or perhaps an end-of-season vinous and gastronomic odyssey
(you see, already some Greek influence!) to Champagne to discover its
wines and its gastronomy.
Britt
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News from BKWine |
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Autumn 2008
program
 For
a wine lover a trip to Bordeaux is a must! Here you find world famous
châteaux and world famous wines but also a lot of new exciting initiatives
(less famous but maybe more important for the future of Bordeaux!) and
young enthusiastic wine makers.
More info on the Bordeaux wine tour!
 Douro
is one of the world’s most famous wine rivers. Here, in this dramatically
beautiful landscape in northern Portugal, grapes are grown on steep,
terraced slopes. The climate is dry and hot and the grapes are picked
perfectly ripe. These grapes are made into port wine and increasingly into
a full bodied, tasty red table wine.
More info on the Douro wine tour!
 Champagne...
Luxury, celebration and of course excellent wines. But champagne is not
just wines. There is also an outstanding gastronomy that we will pay
special attention to on this trip. We will visit some world famous
champagne houses and some small high-quality family producers. And we will
enjoy the Champenoise gastronomy at our dinners (in a one-star
restaurant!) and at the lunches, some of which will be with, and as guests
of, champagne producers. Is drinking champagne all through a meal a good
idea? Decide for yourself!
More info on the Champagne wine tour!
Finnish
Wine Tours - Viinimatkoja Ranskan viinialueille!
Tours
on the schedule (in Finnish):
 | 3.-7. syyskuuta 2008:
Pohjois-Rhônen-laaksoon
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 Nauti
pidennetystä kesästä ja tutustu samalla Syrah- rypäleen salaisuuksiin.
Täällä Pohjois-Rhônen –laaksossa tuotetaan lähinnä punaviiniä, saamme myös
tilaisuuden tutustua alueen kukkaisiin Viognier- viineihin sekä
täyteläisiin Marsanne/Roussanne-viineihin. Lisätietoa !
More info here!
You can find the pictures on
www.bkwine.com/wine_pictures/photo_galleries.htm |
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Recommendations |
| A selection of
what we have tried, tasted or visited recently.
□
Producers
Cave d'Embres et Castelmaure,
Corbières, Languedoc
 To
reach the village of Emres et Castelmaure (yes, that's how its called) you
have to follow narrow, winding roads, beautiful and remote and full of game
hunters in season… To arrive in the village and find a cooperative that is
modern, not to say trendy, is not quite what you expect. but Cave d'Embres
et Castelmaure has succeeded in convincing its members (les cooperateurs)
that to survive today you have to focus on quality. The wines are very good,
starting with the nice and easy-to-drink La Buvette to the more serious la
Grande Cuvée and Cuvée N:o 3. The labels are decidedly modern, perhaps
designed with younger drinkers in mind, as are the bag-in-boxes. Now they
can even boast a brand new architecture designed winery. Some call it "un
Guggenheim des Corbières"…
Click here for address and more recommendations.
Read about more recommended
producers on the site:
Favourite Producers
Read more recommendations on
restaurants and winebars on
my Restaurant and Wine Bar page. |
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News from the Wine World |
Malbec wine
from Paris!
 The
long established vineyard Clos Montmartre in Paris, just behind Sacre Coeur,
must now face new competition. It is the Bretonneau hospital in the 18th
arrondisment that has launched its first vintage of Clos Bretonneau. Three
years ago they planted 125 Malbec vines and at the end of May the first
vintage, the 2007 were presented. A very decent, fruity and unpretentious
wine, in particular considering the vines are only three years old. The wine
is vinified at the hospital in its own wine cellar equipped with stainless
steel tanks and all! Veronique Desjardins, the hospital director, sees the
new vineyard as an important part of the therapy for the patients (old-age
people needing constant hospital treatment): "It revives old memories – who
has not harvested grapes once when young? It becomes a discussion subject
and the patients can even help with the harvest." To serve wine at the meals
at the hospital is self evident in this place. Consulting winemaker is Fabrice Duron from Chateau de Gaudou in Cahors. "Clos Bretonneau is a micro-cuvée",
he says, "but it's made just like the wines I make at home and I'm very
proud of this vintage. But the vines are young and it will only get better!"
(Here's
a short video about the hospital, but not on the wine though.)
5000 wine producers in the
United States
There are just under 5000 wine producers ("bonded wineries") in the United
States. Half of these are in California, all according to a report by MKF
Research LLC. These are the most "vinous" states, measured in the number of
wineries (2005):
- California: 2275 bonded wineries
- Washington: 454,
- Oregon: 291
- New York: 245
- Texas: 141
One can understand that it is easier for a wine enthusiast to keep track of
this compared to e.g. the 10,000 chateaux that you can count just Bordeaux.
Virtually all states have at least a few bonded wineries.
The total acreage planted with vines reach 608,000 acres / 246,000 hectares.
The details:
- California: 474.000 ac / 192,000 ha
- Washington: 54.000 ac / 22.000 ha
- Michigan: 41.200 ac / 17.000 ha
- New York: 31.000 ac / 12.500 ha
- Philadelphia: 12.000 / 4.900 ha
- Oregon: 11.700 / 4.700 ha
But only half of the grapes are actually used to make wine, which explains
the discrepancy between the lists. The rest ends up as e.g. raisins and
grape juice. So in total there is some 120,000 ha of wine producing land,
which incidentally is about the same size as Bordeaux. The average acreage
for a winery is thus around 50 hectares. I winder what that number is for
Italy or France…
New edition of Fine Wine e-zine
The downloadable e-zine Fine Wine has just come out with a new issue
with various articles on e.g. the Rhône Valley, the new contamination-proof
cork that for ever removes the corked wine-problem (it is said), the Loire
Valley and more. Download it here: www.finewine.nu
How do you make a wine
barrel?
Perhaps not a question you have asked. But it is actually quite a
complicated process that still today relies to a great extend on manual
craft skills. We recently visited a cooper, Tonnellerie Gillet, in Burgundy
as part of a vineyard tour in the region and Gillet showed us exactly how
it's done: how you cut the staves, how to assemble the barrique (try and
figure it out!), how to toast it (la chauffe – burning a fire inside) etc.
Come with us on a wine tour to Burgundy if you're interested to learn more,
or watch this video that shows you
how a wine barrel is made. And you can find more
wine videos on BKWine TV.
![[E] Domaine de Nizas, Languedoc](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/WHuyZAgt9f4/default.jpg) Two
Languedoc producers on video: Domaine de Nizas and Ch St Jacques d'Albas
Both Domaine de Nizas and Chateau Saint Jacques d'Albas are part of the
new wave wine makers in the Languedoc. St Jacques was created seven years
ago by a British banker who wanted to change life style and Nizas was
launched a few years earlier by an Franco-American entrepreneur who had
previously started Clos du Val in California and Taltarni in Australia (he
must be picking up a lot of air-miles…). We visited both recently on a tour
of the Languedoc and you can watch the video interviews we made
![[E] Graham Nutter of Chateau St Jacques d'Albas](http://s2.ytimg.com/vi/IDsMvGILxHE/default.jpg) with
them here:
visit and interview at Domaine de Nizas in Languedoc, and the
interview with Graham Nutter of Chateau St Jacques d'Albas. And you can
find more
wine videos on BKWine TV.
The world's worst wine
labels
Dr. Vino has created an entertaining (?) competition: Which is the
world's worst (ugliest, most tasteless…) wine label? There are many, many
poor wine labels but few are truly awful. Dr. Vino has found some of those.
What do you say about:
- Cleavage Creek (yes, including photo)
- The cat-bottles from Zeller
- The Prisoner, decorated with a depressing illustration that might appeal
to the SM enthusiast
- The Horse's Ass (no explanation needed)
- And why not Champagne Jacques Chirac…
You can see the labels and vote here.
The world's weirdest wine
labels
Someone in Switzerland called wineman (or winegirl) has collected a
wealth of more or less odd wine labels:
www.winegirl.ch/Languages/English.html. The collection is organised
according to theme, some rather surprising. For example: uniforms, bulls
(Bull's Eye Madeira…), elephants, erotic (The Sergeant's Mess anyone?),
firemen (Riesling Brand of course), frogs, humour and even Popes. Lots of
entertainment.
Tuscan wine exports show
healthy growth
Tuscany increased its exports last year by 5.6%. The biggest growth was
reported for exports of white wine to India that was up by 661% (from an
infinitesimal base one assumes). Among the more significant markets growth numbers were
good for the United Kingdom (+20%), Japan (+17%) and Switzerland (+16%).
Exports to the US shrunk by 1.4% though. According to numbers released by Regione Toscana.
More about Sherry
 Sherry
is not quite the hippest drink around these days. Unfortunately. Many
sherries, especially the dry versions, are excellent wines and outstanding
value. Not least good to sip as an aperitif now when its summer (if ever it
will arrive here in Paris). So we are glad to promote a site that is about
nothing but sherry: "Vinos de Jerez etc...". And on top of it they talk
about one excellent producer (owned by a Norwegian!) that we don't mind
promoting a bit too: Bodega Fernando de Castilla. Drink more sherry!
jerez-xerez-sherry.blogspot.com/
Organic wines win prizes
Signature Bio is a competition for organic wines that is now in its 20th
year. This years competition awarded a "Special Gold Medal" to Mas
Costeplane Pioch de l'Oule Rouge 2006 Vin de Pays d'Oc from Domaine
Costeplane. Regular gold medals were awarded to Domaine de Tavernel, Dom.
Grand Corbière, Dom. Malavieille, Dom. de Gabelas, Dom. Bassac, and Dom. du
Joncier. More information is available on Millesime Bio:
Millesime Bio
Wine production in the
southern hemisphere – short profile
 Numbers
recently published by the OIV (International Organisation of Vine and Wine)
Acreage:
- Argentina is since long the countries with most land under vine:
240,000 ha. Chile is approaching fast and has reache almost 200,000 ha. The
most dramatic increase has been in Australia: 170,000 ha in 2007 from only
70,000 ha in 1995. Followed by South Africa 140,000 ha and Brazil 100,000
ha. New Zealand, that is much talked about has modest 30,000 ha.
- The region now accounts for 11% of world acreage, compared to 7% 20 years
ago.
Wine production 2007:
- Argentina: 15 Mhl (stable over the last few years)
- Australia: 10 Mhl (dramatic drop from the almost 15 Mhl made in 2006,
after having almost tripled from 5 Mhl in 1995!)
- South Africa: 10 Mhl (steady upwards trend)
- Chile: 8 Mhl (strong upwards trend)
- Brazil: 3 Mhl
- New Zealand: 1.5 Mhl
- The southern hemisphere now makes 18.2% of world wine production, up from
13.3% 20 years ago
In summary: Argentina is biggest but remains on a stable level. Australia
shot up like a rocket but hit a wall in 2007 due to the draught and the
economic difficulties of the sector. Where to next? South Africa and Chile
is also growing strongly but is so far quite a bit behind in volume. The
other countries are small producers.
Wine consumption:
- Most countries have falling consumption, Argentina most of all. Australia,
though, is growing: almost +50% since 1995, but it far from compensates from
the drop in the other countries. Over 20 years the region has contracted
from 13.4% of world consumption to 11.6%.
Export
As a consequence, the missing part in the equation is the booming export.
All big countries have rapidly growing exports, as does New Zealand!:
- Australia: 8 Mhl exported
- Chile: 6 Mhl
- Argentina: 3.7 Mhl
- South Africa: 3 Mhl
- New Zealand: 0.9 Mhl
- the other countries have very small exports
Today the region accounts for 23.7% (!) of world wine exports, up from a
modest 11.7% 20 years ago. It is important to keep in mind though that total
world exports have grown over the same period. The picture is therefore not
so bleak for e.g. Italy and France: even if they have lost market share
their exports have still grown in absolute numbers.
(Source: OIV press conference with Director General Federico Castellucci.)
Ten best Syrah wines
 The
top ten highest scoring wines in the competition Syrah du Monde was:
- Australia Witchmount Estate Shiraz 2004 Witchmount Estate
- Canada Pillitteri Estates Shiraz Icewine 2006 Pillitteri Estate Winery
- South Africa Hartenberg the Stork Shiraz 2005 Hartenberg Estate
- France Saint Joseph AOC - L'Arzelle 2006 Les vins de Vienne
- France Minervois AOC - Cuvée St Fructueux 2005 Sarl Pujol Izard
- USA Earthquake Syrah 2005 Michael - David Winery
- Australia St Andrews Shiraz Clare Valley 2002 Taylors/ Wakefield Wines
- Chile Vina la Rosa Don Reca - Shiraz Cachapoal Valley 2006 Vina la Rosa sa
- France Saint Joseph AOC "Esprit de Granit" 2006 Cave de Tain l'Hermitage
- Argentina Callia Magna Syrah 2007 Salentein Family Of Wines
Wine seminar at Sotheby's
The auction house Sotheby's is organising a wine course / seminar on
July 8. It will be led by Damian Tillson, one of their wine experts. More
info from Alexandra Floyd on + 44 (0)20 7293 5727
A jewel of a wine?
 Perhaps,
perhaps not. The cooperative Les Vignerons de Buzet has launched a new
elegant bag-in-box called The Vinity Case that is designed to look like a,
well, vanity case. The rosé box is in cute pink colour and the white wine is
pastel green. There's also a red wine version that looks like a giant
camembert cheese.
Ch Latour chief and
Roussillon wine maker buy in the Rhône Valley
Frederic Engerer, director at Chateau Latour in Bordeaux, and Jerome
Malet of Domaine Sarda-Malet in Roussillon have joined together to buy a
property called Fort Boneaux in the Rhône Valley. It has 18 ha of vineyards
planted mainly with Grenache and also with some Syrah. The vineyards are not
too far away from the well known Domaine Gramenon.
French reform (?) of the
wine sector
The French government has presented a plan to reform, renew and revive
the wine sector. Wines should be categorised in three new (rebranded?)
categories:
- VdF – Vignobles de France, that will replace Vin de Table. The
label may show information on e.g. the grape variety and the vintage, which
is illegal with today's rules. Modern "international" production methods may
be used such as adding oak chips, tannins, sorbic acid, or concentrated
grape must (methods that are frequently used in various wine regions across
the world).
- IGP – Indication Géographique Protégée, protected geographic
indication. Replacing today's Vin de Pays
- AOP – Appellation d'Origine Protégée, corresponding to the current
Appellation Contrôlée (AOC)
The proposed changes to VdF would certainly be a step forward compared to
the current outdated rules, in particular regarding labelling, but to what
extent the rest is just a question of rebranding remains to be seen. We
await more details of the reform… Read more on
Decanter.com and
TimesOnline.co.uk
Robert Mondavi dies at 95
The Californian wine legend Robert Mondavi died on May 16 at almost 95
years of age. Mondavi was one of the central personalities during many years
in the American wine world and was perhaps the person who contributed most
to make California recognised around the world as a producer of quality
wines. He build up the winery carrying his own name to become one of the
leading quality wine producers in the US but sold the company a few years
ago following a complicated family schism.
decanter.com
Côtes de Bordeaux approved
The new appellation Appellation Côtes de Bordeaux has been approved by
the INAO. It will be used from the 2008 harvest. The AC exists in two
variants: "simple" CdB and CdB with the additional mention of Blaye,
Castillon, Cadillac or Franc. (NB: C d Bourg originally part of the plan
chose to withdraw from the cooperation.)
vinimarket.com
Dearer to become wine grower
in France
The average price for vineyard land rose by 11% in 2007 according to the
latest statistics from SAFER. Biggest rises were seen in Cognac (17.8%), in
Champagne (17.1%) and in Bordeaux (13%). Some regions saw falling prices
though, e.g. Cahors, Monbazillac and Buzet in south-western France. Read
more:
wine-business-international.com
Have a news
item you'd like to see here or have a news tip? Send me an email:
winebrief@bkwine.com |
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Agenda |
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- -
France:
- -
Sweden:
- - UK,
Belgium, Switzerland, Spain, Denmark,...:
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30/6-2/7, Stavanger, Norway:
Bocuse d'Or,
www.vinoteca.no |
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30/6-2/7, Stavanger, Norway: Nordic
Sommelier Championship,
www.vinoteca.no |
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14-16/8, Oregon: Wine
Economists Conference,
www.wine-economics.org |
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20/9, Copenhagen: Rhone Festival,
www.rhonefestival.dk |
Wine auction
agendas:
Something we've missed? Send us suggestions for events to be added here:
winebrief@bkwine.com |
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Post Scriptum |
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 Copyright
©
Britt Karlsson, BKWine
www.bkwine.com
info@bkwine.com
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