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Swedish version available here (click this link).

Welcome to the BKWine Brief nr 47, June 2007
 

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Wine Tour program!

 

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Here in Paris we had a wonderful month of April. We sat on the balcony until late in the evenings enjoying 20+ centigrade. Then May arrived with the total contrast: cold and rain. In our building they turn of the heating on May 15 (no matter what) and we’ve rarely been freezing so much inside as this May.

In many parts of France the pattern was similar: wonderful April, horrible May. So, what does this has to do with wine? Well, the early heat and sun made the vines virtually explode with energy early on in the season. Some say the growth is two weeks early, other say the plants are a month or more ahead of time.

But then we had rain and cold in May that messed things up. The result? Poor flowering, uneven pollination, colure and other problems. This will probably lead to a small volume harvest and it will also be difficult to choose the right moment to pick the grapes. Grapes on the same bunch will have different maturity (due to uneven flowering) and ideally you should harvest in successive ‘tries’, like in Sauternes, only the ripe berries. But that will be too expensive. In other words, it seems to be a year when the work in the vineyard will be very important and when the skills at harvest time will make a big difference. We will see.

Slovenia – A new wine country to discover!

I was recently in Slovenia and it proved to be a very pleasant discovery, both regarding wine, food and beautiful countryside. A landscape that seems to be a mix between Tuscany and Austria (try and imagine!), an exciting and creative cuisine, and wines that we certainly of good quality and often original. Some of the whites you have to get a bit accustomed to – skin contact for six months is not unusual! – but once you’ve recovered from the first shock the wines are certainly very drinkable and interesting. And the world of wine could do with a few more surprising wines. Indigenous grape varieties coexist with the internationally well known. Even if Slovenia is best known for its white wines we found several reds that impressed, for example the Pinot Noir from Marjan Simcic and Rofosk from Uros Rojac. In this neat little country with 2 million inhabitants they are also very keen on growing their vines organically, or, as the dynamic Vesna Krisancic at Movia, even biodynamic. We will no doubt see more of it in the future.

Find out for yourself

Why not come and see for yourself how the harvest turns out? We have an exciting wine tour to Burgundy in September and a tour to Portugal in October. Register now for your autumn wine tour! More info: http://www.bkwine.com/wine_tours/wine_tours.htm

Book reviews

Just a reminder that you can find wine book reviews on our site. Perhaps good for some inspiration for summer reading or travel: http://www.bkwine.com/vininformation/wine_books.htm.

Britt

PS: Recommend to your friends to read the Brief or forward it to them !



All images are clickable!

All previous issues of the Brief are here: Archive

 

 
News from BKWine

Wine Tours

bullet26-30 September: Côte d'Or, the heart of Burgundy

040923-142-4285Over the course of a long weekend we will take a close look at the heart of Burgundy: la Côte d’Or de Bourgogne, the Golden Slope of Burgundy. Our visits will give you expert insight into the important aspects of Burgundy wines: soil, geology, viticulture, and vinification. More info!
 
bullet17-21 October: Portugal – Alentejo

Portugal have been making great strides in improving wine quality over the last decade and the Alentejo region is one of the most dynamic (albeit one of the least known). There are many ambitious wine makers in the region, both traditional Portuguese "houses" and modern ventures. And this is also where you find the vast Portuguese cork oak forests and the delicious Pata Negra ham. More info!

Finnish Wine Tours - Viinimatkoja Ranskan viinialueille!

 Tours on the schedule (in Finnish):

bullet26.-30. syyskuuta: Viinimatka Alsaceen More info here!
 
bullet17-21 oktober: Portugal – Alentejo

You can find the pictures on  www.bkwine.com/wine_pictures/photo_galleries.htm

 
Recommendations
A selection of what we have tried, tasted or visited recently.

 □  Producers

Domaine d’Aupilhac, Sylvain Fadat,  Montpeyroux, Languedoc
Sylvain Fadat prefers to spend his time in the field. That’s where the important work is done, in his opinion. He’s one of the stars in the Languedoc, with Domaine d’Aupilhac that he created in 1989, north west of Montpellier. At that time, Languedoc still had a low-quality, big-volume reputation and Sylvain became one of the pioneers in on the path towards higher quality. He understood the fantastic potential, there to be discovered, in the vineyards around his home village – Montpeyroux. Today he makes a wide range of wines, both white and red, and all have lots of substance and personality. For example, his cuvées from very old vines of Carignan and Cinsault.

Click here for address and more recommendations.

Read about more recommended producers on the site: Favourite Producers

Read more recommendations on restaurants and winebars on my Restaurant and Wine Bar page.

 
News from the Wine World
New guest writing on BKWine.com: Lebanon, Israel, Germany…
First, we have the pleasure of welcoming a new guest writer, Per W Stryger, who is both a wine importer (vinum-bonum.dk) and an airline captain, as well as a wine writer. On the guest writer page he writes three articles on German wine, on drinking wine, and on combining wine and food.

Read Per’s articles here.

We also have new articles from two of our established guest writers: Ester Laushway writes about an interesting and unusual producer in Provence (certainly an unusual love story!), and David Furer writes two articles on wine from Israel and on wine from Lebanon.

Read Ester's och David's articles here

Sneak release: truffles in February
an18-327-2718It's not officially released yet, but we can give you a sneak preview. On February 13-17 we will organise an exclusive Truffles Hunting, Wine and Gastronomy tour (including foie gras) to the Perigord district in South West France. We'll go "hunting" for truffles with specially trained truffles dogs and we'll end the morning with a magnificent all-truffles lunch... An we'll also visit a number of interesting wine producers in the region of course. You'll soon find more info here: bkwine.com/wine_tours/wine_tours.htm

New VDP: Vin de Pays du Val de Loire
On May 11 the official text for the new Vin de Pays du Val de Loire was published. It covers the departements Allier, Cher, Indre, Indre-et-Loire, Loir-et-Cher, Loire-Atlantique, Loiret, Maine-et-Loire, Nièvre, Puy-de-Dôme, Sarthe, Vendée, Vienne and parts of Deux-Sèvres. White grapes: sauvignon blanc, sauvignon gris, chardonnay, chenin, grolleau gris, pinot blanc, pinot gris, melon. Red varieties: cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, gamay noir, grolleau noir, grolleau gris, pinot noir, merlot, pineau d’aunis. The grape variety (varieties) can be mentioned on the label. The previously used VDP du Jardin de la France is thus abolished. Read the full text.

Austria bets on organic wine
Austria aims to become the leading producer of organic wine. There are today 467 organic wineries in the country, representing 4% of the total production. In 2006 the produced volume of organic wine reached 652,000 hectolitres. harpers.co.uk

Water in the vineyard
Is it permitted to irrigate the vineyard? It depends on where and when. Many believe that it is forbidden in e.g. France. However, that is not the case. Even in France it is allowed in some districts and under some conditions (at certain pre-defined periods during the year). Usually not for the better wines though. After the extremely dry 2003 there’s been a lot of discussion about a more liberal attitude towards irrigation in France. In the New World the situation is sometimes the opposite. There are no restrictions on irrigation (as a matter of fact, some wine districts would not exist without it). But there are some arguments raised that perhaps it should be used less. Read more about that debate, primarily on the US west coast, in  SFGate.

Napa Valley officially recognised by the EU
050414-191-9147The European Union has recently officially recognised the denominations “Napa” and “Napa Valley” for wine in a way similar to the European appellations of origin for wine. The president of Napa Valley Vintners comments “It is a significant victory in the permanent fight to protect the name Napa around the world”. Not that we believe that there were many producers in Europe who called their wine “Napa”…vinimarket.com decanter.com napavalleyregister.com

Record harvest in Argentina
ah25-247-4740The harvest volume in Argentina 2007 is expected to increase with 6.5% compared with 2006. It will be the largest volume since 10 years. A contributing factor is that many new plantations in the Mendoza region this year produces wine for the first time. vinimarket.com

Record (small) harvest in Australia
In contrast, in Australia this year’s harvest will be the smallest since 2000 – only 560,000 tonnes (~400 M litres of wine). It is almost 30% less than last year. Perhaps not entirely unwelcome though, since Australia has had large surplus volumes of wine recently. wine-business-international.com

500 wineries in Washington
Sweet Valley Wines in Walla Walla claims to be the 500th winery in Washington State. The state has 31,000 acres of wine (13,000 hectares). Production has grown steadily from not more than 20 wineries in the 70s. winemag.com

Great uncertainty (and apprehension?) re. prices on Bordeaux primeurs
040330-2-71-0010What will happen with the prices on the primeur wines (“release prices”) from Bordeaux? Many people, both buyers and sellers, seem to look at it with a certain concern. And many chateaux seem reluctant to announce the prices. The prices will certainly be below those for the 2005 vintage that were extremely high. But how much lower? Some (Mr Parker among them) predict that it is a vintage that will not much interest the American market. For economic reasons and because fo the weak dollar. First to release the price was Léoville-Barton who announced a price that was certainly lower than for 2005 but still quite high according to some observers. Other chateaux seem to wait (hesitate?) with the prices… Is it the beginning of market reaction on the very high prices of recent years? We will see. Read more: decanter.com

The world’s best sommelier is Swedish
bh10-453-5356Andreas Larsson recently won the title as the world’s best sommelier at the championship in Greece. His daily job (or perhaps nightly) is at the restaurant PM & Vänner (PM and Friends) in the small Swedish town of Växjö. www.matodryck.se

EU launches propaganda campaign for wine? Outside Europe...
Agricultural commissioner Mariann Fischer Boel will present the project for wine sector reform om July 4. One of the elements in the project is a proposal to invest substantial amounts in a marketing campaign to promote European wines. But only outside of Europe. Fischer Boel says that it may involve “very significant figures … people will be very surprised”. financialexpress-bd.com

Wine poetry?
Feeling your writing soul needs to get the opportunity to express itself? The American magazine The Wine Enthusiast has launched a wine Limerick competition. You can submit your entries until July 1. Judging from their samples, the competition is not too stiff. winemag.com

I’m a spirits drinker from my youth
Who’s often been called very uncouth
If the wine is too young
Too tannic on my tongue
I simply add a spritz of vermouth

The world’s most powerful brands
The magazine The Drinks Business makes a yearly review of the world’s most powerful brands, weighing in things like brand recognition as well as sales volumes. Here are this year’s top 10 brands.
- Smirnoff
- Bacardi
- Johnnie Walker
- Martini
- Stolichnaya
- Hennessy
- Absolut
- Jack Daniel’s
- Chivas Regal

And here’s “the wine list”, the list of the top ten wine brands (overall ranking in parenthesis)
- Gallo (17)
- Hardys (21)
- Concha y Toro (24)
- Robert Mondavi (36)
- Yellowtail (43)
- Jacob’s Creek (47)
- Lindemans (50)
- Sutter Home (56)
- Blossom Hill (65)
- Rosemount (80)

One can perhaps note that none of the wine brands originate in Europe, although Jacob’s Creek is owned by the French company Pernod Ricard.

World’s best Syrah
The wine competition Syrah du Monde recently honoured 36 wines with the Gold Medal. Wines from all over the world participated in the competition. Here is the list of winning wines: syrah-du-monde.com

Why do it the simple way when you can make it complicated
bf15-396-9615The Swedish monopoly retailer Systembolaget (who also likes to take on a particularly responsible attitude when it thinks that the citizens are not quite up to it) has a project to introduce level indicators on Bag-in-Box wines so that the consumer can see how much is left in the plastic bag inside the box. Unfortunately, as they note in their latest newsletter “the proposals that have so far been presented have all incurred a substantial cost for the packaging”, but they continue their quest. Perhaps they don’t think that the consumers are willing to pay a substantial premium to get the gauge on the box. Which seems entirely reasonable, considering that you can check the level by simply lifting the box and feel its weight. For no extra cost. But why choose a simple solution?...

Cognac with tea?!
http://www.bkwine.com/images/so-yang.jpgSo-Yang is a newly launched drink that is a blend of cognac and green tea. It was originally created by a French woman in her kitchen in Cognac. It is actually much better than what it might sound, I must admit. You serve it as a refreshing drink or aperitif, simply on some ice cubes. Light, refreshing and pleasingly aromatic. Actually a quite elegant mix of cognac and tea aromas, mixed with a hint of citrus and peaches. It’s just launched so you’ll have difficulties finding it in a shop near you (unless you live near Drugstore Publicis Etoile), but they’re looking for distributors internationally. so-yang.com

Allegrini buys vineyards in Montalcino
The Veneto-based Italian wine producer Allegrini has just bought two vineyards in Montalcino in collaboration with their American importer: Poggio San Paolo and Montluc. They will merge the two vineyards under the name Poggio San Paolo. The total surface will be around 21 hectares. They mainly produce Brunello di Montalcino but also some Rosso di Montalcino and two “super Tuscans”. The price tag has not been made public but it is estimated to around 10 million euro. (The price per hectare in Montalcino is around 375,000 euro…) winespectator.com

Amber Ridge Vineyard in Sonoma sold to Nickel & Nickel
Meanwhile in California… Amber Ridge Vineyard is located in the Russian River district in Sonoma and covers 12 hectares. They grow Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Syrah. Nickel & Nickel, a winery in Napa, recently paid $4.1 million for it (3 million euro). It’s the highest price ever paid for a vineyard in this area and computes to around $300,000 per hectare (240,000 euro/ha). winespectator.com

Vin de Pays d’Oc celebrates its 20th anniversary
Vin de Pays d’Oc was created in 1987 and there will be a big celebration at Vinexpo this summer. Some facts:
- VdP d’Oc is the biggest exporter of French wine, ahead of e.g. Bordeaux
- is also the biggest exporter of varietal wines (and totally dominant of the French production of “vins de cepage” making 90% of all varietals)
- is in fourth place internationally for varietals, after Australia, Chile and USA
- made 4.5 million hectolitres of wine in 2005

Abundant year for English vineyards
2006 was a very good harvest for England and Wales too. They produced in total 3,369,000 bottles, which is the third largest harvest since records began. The planted surface grew over the year from 793 hectares to 923 ha and 16 new vineyards were created, bringing the total to 362 wine producers in England and Wales. (A curious comparison with South Africa, who has 581 “wine cellars”. When will England+Wales overtake South Africa?)

Richard Smart introduced into the New Zealand Wine Hall of Fame
The Australian viticultural researcher and consultant Richard Smart has been elected into the New Zealand Wine Hall of Fame. The nomination is based primarily on his work to improve vines and rootstocks after the Phylloxera invasion and for his work on canopy management.

Wine fair in Finland
On August 10 and 11 there will be a wine and gastronomy fair in Karleby in Finland. The theme is wine and food in combination. Visitors will be able to buy small portions of food (à 2 euro), prepared by the Professional Chef’s Association of the region. 13 wine importers will be there to present their wines to go with it. They will also have cheese presentations and on other gastronomic themes (e.g. by Aki Wahlman), tutored wine tastings, and presentation of other gastronomic specialities (e.g. from Rougie). We here that there are also a few spaces left for a additional wine importers to exhibit. More info: virpi-punkt-sorvisto-snabela-kolumbus-punkt-fi or vanhatullipakkahuone.com

Spittoon innovation
Spittoons are perhaps not what you put on your wish list for Christmas but they are very useful (well, essential) in many wine tastings. The French company Oenocom, who produces a clever, time-glass-shaped spittoon called Oenosablier, has just launched a new, smaller spittoon. It is smaller and lighter than their flagship Oenosablier, just 1 litre and made in Bordeaux coloured plastic. Easy to carry with you and does not take much space on a wine tasting table or a wine show stand. More info: http://www.oeno-com.com/

The EU court rules that internet sales of wine and spirits should be allowed into Sweden
It has taken the EU court five years to finally rule on an intriguing issue regarding internet sales from the EU into Sweden. The Swedish government has always claimed that it is illegal for individuals to buy wine and spirit from other EU countries through the internet (or any other distance sale, e.g. mail order). Sweden has obtained an exception from EU rules that has allowed it too keep the monopoly on wine and spirits retail sales, through the government owned chain of shops "Systembolaget" - claiming that it is vital for the public health and for the good of the youth to keep the monopoly. (No doubt, the Swedish monopoly supporters can see how in the rest of Europe vast swathes of the population are alcoholics and the youth is entirely decadent.) (Interestingly, though, in spite of the monopoly, the government shops have less than 50% market share. The Swedes have a larger supply from restaurants, from travelling abroad, and from illegal imports and home brewing). As a consequence of this monopoly, the government has claimed, Swedes should not be allowed to buy wine and spirit from other EU countries.

In spite of the government claiming that internet sales were illegal several internet sites have appeared specifically targeting the Swedish market (usually with exceptionally poor selections, but cheap). The merchants claimed that it was against the EU principles of free movement of goods (which it is, but, you know, Sweden had this monopoly derogation). Several cases where people have bought online and had their goods confiscated at the border have gone to court. Some cases have gone along government lines whereas other court decisions have gone against the government. Undeterred, the customs officers have more and more tightened the control and have recently confiscated all parcels they have found.

One court case has gone to the supreme court. However, instead of taking a decision, the supreme court asked the EU court for advice on how the EU regulations should be interpreted - a normal procedure when country regulations seem contradictory to EU rules, but a procedure that takes time. It is this ruling from the EU court that has now been pronounced.

The conclusion is that the EU court considers that it is an unreasonable restriction for Sweden to limit such imports and that it does not serve the stated purpose of protecting the youth. The EU conclusion is therefore that Swedes should be allowed to buy wines and spirits over the internet. This was actually an unexpected decision since preliminary notes from the EU have indicated the opposite and a ruling late last year that said said that a Dutch resident who had bought duty paid wine in France and had it shipped to Holland would have to pay Dutch duties on it, in spite of it already having been taxed in France.

In the mean time, several of the companies involved in the business have closed down and at leas one has gone bankrupt, as a consequence of the government's previous (erroneous) interpretation of the rules. More comments in the IHT.

Have a news item you'd like to see here or have a news tip? Send me an email: winebrief@bkwine.com

 
Book Reviews
No new book reviews this month but don't forget that we have a whole section on the web site dedicated to book reviews and recommendations. See below.

Click here for more book reviews on my site. You will also find links to on-line book shops on that page.

 
Link Tips
Some wine sites that you might enjoy visiting:
bullet More on terroir. Does it exist? A long article in the NY Times.
 
bulletAre corked wines a thing of the past? That’s what the cork producer Amorim hopes. Read more in IHT/Bloomberg.

Send us suggestions on sites to be included here: winebrief@bkwine.com

 
Agenda

- - France:

bullet

17-21/6 2007, Bordeaux: Vinexpo 2007, www.vinexpo.com

- - Sweden:

bullet

4-6/9, Gothenburg: Wine & Spirtis Expo

bullet

15/9, Malmo: Prowine wine show, www.prowine.se 

bullet

1/10, Stockholm, Spanish Wine Fair, spanskaviner.se (NEW)

bullet

3/10, Göteborg, Spanish Wine Fair, spanskaviner.se (NEW)

bullet

13/10, 2007, Östersund: Munskänkarna's wine fair

- - UK, Belgium, Switzerland, Spain, Denmark,...:

bullet

2/9, Berlin: VDP Gutswein and official debut of Erste Lage wines, www.vdp.de

bullet

15/9, Copenhagen: Rhône festival, www.rhonevinfestival.dk

bullet

21-23/9 Mosel, Rheingau, Nahe: VDP auctions , www.vdp.de 

Wine auction agendas:

bullet Sotheby's
bullet Christie's
bullet Bruun Rasmussen (Denmark)
bullet Thomas Høiland (Denmark)

Something we've missed? Send us suggestions for events to be added here: winebrief@bkwine.com 

 
Post Scriptum
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Copyright © Britt Karlsson, BKWine
www.bkwine.com
info@bkwine.com

 




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