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Swedish version available here (click this link).

Welcome to the BKWine Brief nr 41, November 2006
 

Click for the new
Wine Tour program!

 

Click to recommend
to a friend!

 

I’m just back from what felt like ”the band on tour” – 10 days, 4 cities, 8 wine tastings. But it was a great experience and wonderful to meet many people who read the Brief. Fun to see you and talk to you face to face for a change! I hope to do that more often in the future.

The best of win(e)ter

One of the best things with winter (I’m not a cold weather person, you see) is that there are lots of interesting seasonal food available, not least game: deer, wild boar (sanglier and the small marcassin), pheasant, wild duck, and lots of other things. And you also have some of the seasonal cheese here in France. For example, the Mont d’Or from the Alps which is only available around Christmas. All this gives you excellent opportunities to open some good bottles of wine. Why not choose some from the Rhône Valley. Take a look at one of this month’s producer recommendations for example.

More Christmas gifts

In this Brief you will find a few more book reviews than usual. Perhaps a good source of inspiration for The Day – a gift to someone else or to yourself perhaps. And don’t forget that I have a long list of more book reviews on my site. (And if you're interested in photography I also have a whole section with our photo book and photo software recommendations.)

And the last Christmas gift

If I could wish for one Christmas gift it would be this: Please help me get more subscribers to the Brief: Tell your friends about it! Make sure everyone in the wine club signs up! Tell your restaurant staff to read it as a source of wine inspiration to give better customer service! Do recommend the Brief to others! (You may remember that a few months ago I set the target for 4000 subscribers to the Brief (in English) by the end of the year. Actually, thanks to your fantastic help I have already reached that target. – Thank you! But more is better, isn’t it!?)

Britt



All images are clickable!

All previous issues of the Brief are here: Archive

 
News from BKWine

Wine Tours

bullet February 14-18 Truffles, Olive Oil and Wine in the Rhone Valley

Haven’t you always dreamed of going truffle hunting? Now you have the opportunity! Join us on this trip in February to the southern part of the Rhône Valley, in Provence. We will go truffle hunting, learn how to make olive oil and of course, taste a lot of good wines. More info
 
bullet 040329-1-k2-0018June 6-10: Bordeaux

For a wine lover a trip to Bordeaux is a must! Here you find world famous châteaux and world famous wines but also a lot of new exciting initiatives (less famous but maybe more important for the future of Bordeaux!) and young enthusiastic wine makers. More info
 
bulletIn the autumn there we are planning some really interesting trips... Perhaps Bordeaux, Bourgogne, Rhone, Italy,... More info coming soon. Or get in touch and tell us what you would like! One thing is already settled:
 
bulletOctober 17-21 : Portugal – Alentejo

More info soon.

Finnish Wine Tours - Viinimatkoja Ranskan viinialueille!

 Tours on the schedule (in Finnish):

bulletFebruary 14-18: Truffles, Olive Oil and Wine in the Rhone Valley (in English)
 
bullet9.-13. toukokuuta: Bordeaux More info here!
 
bullet26.-30. syyskuuta: Viinimatka Alsaceen More info here!
 
bullet17-21 oktober: Portugal – Alentejo

For info, contact winebrief@bkwine.com or +33 (0)6 80 45 35 70 or check the site: http://www.bkwine.com/wine_tours/wine_tours.htm

You can find the pictures on  www.bkwine.com/wine_pictures/photo_galleries.htm

 
Recommendations
A selection of what we have tried, tasted or visited recently.

 □  Producers

Château Vannières, Bandol
This beautiful property is in one of the best know appellations by the Mediterranean: Bandol. They have a young and dynamic winemaker, Jean-Philippe Fourney, who is continuing, and enhancing Vannières’ tradition of making excellent, full-bodied Bandol wines that often need some bottle age. Made from the interesting Mourvèdre grape variety. The property covers a total of 33 hectares of vineyards.
Click here for address and more recommendations.

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Domaine Fontavin, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Shortly after Hélène Chouvet finished her training as an oenologist, in 1996, she took over the family property Domaine de Fontavin. From her 42 hectares she produces around 80,000 annually, half of which is exported. The main grape is Grenache (70%) with some additions of Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault. Hélène prefers the Grenache that she thinks is well suited to the local climate and the rocky soil in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The Fontavin wines often have a warmth and spiciness but maintain a good, refreshing acidity. Goes very well with game and other food with much taste.
Click here for address and more recommendations.

050302-174-7437050302-174-7454050302-174-7431

Read about more recommended producers on the site: Favourite Producers

 □  Wine Bars and Restaurants

Stockholm:

Eriks Bakficka (Erik’s Back Pocket)
050408-187-8723Erik’s Back Pocket is not exactly next door to Eriks Gondolen so he must have big trousers. The Bakficka is close to the Narvavagen street in fashionable Ostermalm. Classic Swedish food (“husmanskost”) mixed with more unusual cooking (for example delicious gnocci). A decent wine list (but far from outstanding). Very comfortable, classic bistro decoration without unnecessary whistles and bells. And they are open on Sundays!
Click here for address and more recommendations.

Nordic Light Hotel
050408-189-8904This is primarily a wine place, but of course they do have a restaurant. They are 100% focused on American wines – so interesting for their selection in this segment. They also have a wine cellar where you can rent space (provided you’re a company) for your wine collection and get access to their private tasting room.
Click here for address and more recommendations.

Gothenburg:

http://www.bkwine.com/images/magnus-2-goteborg.jpgMagnus & Magnus, Göteborg
A cosy restaurant, friendly and competent service and exceptional food – that makes Magnus & Magnus to one of the stars on the Gothenburg restaurant scene. You could for example try some of the innovative tapas as a starter – the tuna is wonderfully lightly grilled (or “seared” is it’s supposed to be said), the St Jaques clam is perfectly cooked. Outside, you have a nice seating area (in season of course – we’re in Sweden) and next door you have “M3” that you can rent for private functions or if you want to organise a wine tasting or even cooking classes. M3 takes up to 27 persons. BKWine tried Magnus & Magnus for a tasting for the BKWine Brief readers in Gothenburg and we were very satisfied.
Click here for address and more recommendations.

Read more recommendations on restaurants and wine bars on my Restaurant and Wine Bar page.

 
News from the Wine World
Truffles, olive oil and wine in the Rhone Valley, 14-18 February
The black Perigord truffle is one of the most highly acclaimed (or at least most expensive) food ingredients. The price varies between €1500 and €4000 per kilo… To find truffles you need a truffle dog (sometimes, but rarely a pig) and access to a truffle forest during the short season between the end of November to the end of February. BKWine organises a “truffles hunting trip” in the southern Rhône valley in February 2007. We will spend half a day with a truffle hunter and his dog. After “the hunt” we will enjoy a truffles lunch with the mushroom part of every dish from start to finish. The whole trip is three days long and we will also visit an olive oil producer and several interesting wine domaines. More info on the site

an18-326-2613an18-327-2722an18-327-2735an18-327-2717an18-327-2745

News from the Guest Writers
We have posted a new article on Provence from wine of our guest writers, Virpi Sorvisto. The article is in Finnish (Virpi lives in Finland and also works with BKWine with our Finnish wine tours) and you can read it here: Guest Writer Virpi Sorvisto

We also have the pleasure to welcome a new guest writer on BKWine, David Furer. David is an American living in England since a long time back. David writes for several different media in the UK and internationally. David’s first article on our Guest Writer Page talks about Côtes du Rhône Villages. Read it here:Guest Writer David Furer

Wine in Luxemburg
It is no doubt one of the smaller wine producers in Europe but there certainly is wine in Luxemburg. The Mosel river runs through Luxemburg, close to the border to Germany, and wine is made along the river. It is mainly white wine, but they also make some sparkling wine. Read more about Luxemburg wine and the country’s wine producers (including an article by our new guest writer David Furer) here: Ambassade de Luxembourg

http://www.bkwine.com/images/mouton-rothschild-2004.jpgPrince Charles chosen to illustrate the new Mouton label
The new vintage of Chateau Mouton Rothschild (2004) will have an illustration by Prince Charles of the British royal family. The painting is a watercolour depicting pine trees on the Cap d’Antibes on the French Riviera. The reason for choosing Prince Charles is that 2004 marks the centenary of the “entente cordiale” between England and France. Decanter.com

Calvet sold to Grands Chais de France
Neither of the two names probably sound very familiar to most people. Some might recognise Calvet since it is an old Bordeaux négociant. On the other hand, if you say “JP Chenet” it should ring a bell. Chenet is probably the biggest selling French wine brand on export – you known, the wine in the quirky, tilted bottle. And JP Chenet is the main brand produced by Grand Chais de France. Even if Calvet is steeped in Bordeaux history its recent life has been troubled and it has already changed hands a few times. Now it will become part of the biggest French wine producing group (not counting Champagne), which might give it a bit of stability. The Calvet employees took the opportunity to stage a strike against the deal. Decanter.com

Canadians rushes after wine and food stamps
http://www.bkwine.com/images/canadian-wine-and-chees-stamps.jpgThis is not a new government food support program. Or in sort it is. The Canadian Post Office has launched a set of stamps illustrating Canadian wine and cheese. Five million copies were printed and three quarters of the edition has already sold out in three months. According to the Canadian Post an edition usually lasts a year. The stamps were designed by Derwyn Goodall based on photography by Robert Wigington. WineBusiness.com and Canada Post

EU court rules against free trade in wine
The European Court of Justice ruled against free movement of goods in a case brought by a Dutch wine buyer. He had bought wine in France (with low wine taxes) and had them transported by lorry to Holland. The Dutch authorities had slammed Dutch (higher) taxes on the wine. The EU court ruled that the unfortunate Dutch consumer indeed had to pay the Dutch taxes. So, unless you transport the wine yourself you will most likely have to pay the taxes in the country of destination. (Doesn’t it work in a different way for e.g. cars?) Importers, trade and governments seemed to be relieved in the UK and in Sweden where consumers were looking forward to buying cheaper wines from abroad. IHT.com

Prices rocket for white Burgundy at the Hospices de Beaune auction
040422-1-CRW_0192_RJThe traditional Hospice de Beaune auction is sometimes seen as an indicator of where prices for Bourgogne wines are heading. That bodes ill for wine lovers this year. The prices for white Burgundy was on average up 63% compared to last year, whereas the reds only saw a slight increase. It is the just finished 2006 vintage that is sold in barrel at the auction. The most expensive barrel was the Beaune Premier Cru Cuvée Dames Hospitalières, under the hammer for 200.000 euro (for 228 litre). Even if it is primarily a charity auction it is often taken as an indicator for commercial prices. Another factor though might be that the auction is now run by Christie’s (the London-based auction house) who is putting a lot more energy into marketing the event than what was done previously. Decanter.com, Vitisphere.com and Reuters

Effervescents du Monde 2006 – the world’s best sparkling wines
”Effervescents du Monde” is a wine competition for sparkling wines from all over the world. A jury gives medals to the best wines. This year the Great Gold Medal went to – no one. The “standard” Gold Medal was given to 24 wines from all over the world. Full info on the medal winners here: www.effervescents-du-monde.com

Times are not good in Bordeaux
040916-131-3171Sure, there is a small group of Bordeaux producers that fetch stratospheric prices for their wines – the top estates, some of which raised their prices recently with a few hundred percent year-on-year… But for many other Claret producers the reality is less cheerful. A recent study by the Chambre d’Agriculture de Gironde, based on a sample of 105 producers in Entre-deux-Mers, shows this: average turnover has decreased 27% in 8 years; operating income is on average one seventh of what it was then; 36% of the estates made a loss in 2004/2005; only a quarter of the producers can pay themselves a salary that exceeds the French SMIC (minimum salary); sold volume has decreased by 38%. And yet there is much good wine made there! vitisphere.com

Up – and down – for Bulgarian wine
In Bulgaria ti looks bright for the wine industry though, according to official sources at the National Wine and Vine Chamber. Exports over the first 8 months reached 48 million litres and the end of the year is expected to produce even stronger export sales. This follows on an increase by 25% in 2005. On the traditional export markets sales fell dramatically though (France -44%, Great Britain -81%). The new demand comes primarily from Russia, the Czech Republic and from Asia. According to cee-foodindustry.com

Canadian ice wine already harvested
Thanks to unusually cold weather at the end of November, the ice wine has already been harvested in parts of Canada. On November 26 the temperature fell to -17 degrees centigrade in Okanaga (British Columbia). Ice wine is probably Canada’s best know contribution to the wine world. Ice wine is a very sweet wine made by harvesting frozen grapes. The grapes are pressed before they can melt and the resulting must is extremely concentrated and sweet. Apparently you need ten times as much grapes to make a bottle of ice wine as you do for regular wine. (Read our book review on the Canadian Wine Atlas below). Read more: Times Colonist and pentictonherald.ca

The new Spanish appellation Vinedos de Espana in trouble
On August 2 a new appellation was approved by Spanish authorities, called Viñedos de España. Consejo Regulador de Navarra has filed a complaint in the EU against the name (why this has been done by Navarra is unclear). According to EU regulations an appellation must refer to a geographic entity that is smaller than the member country, so the appellation cannot refer to the whole country. According to reports, the Spanish have referred to VDP du Jardin de la France as a precedence (which seems a bit silly since that refers to a sub region of the Loire Valley, in the same way as Ile de France refers to the region around Paris). To be continued. Read more vitisphere.com

New AVA: Tracy Hills
American officials have approved a new AVA (American Viticultural Area): Tracy Hills. Tracy hills covers 39,200 acres (some 20,000 hectares) close to the city of Tracy in California. tracypress.com

Languedoc and Roussillon join together in common appellation
The initiative has now been approved by the INAO: Languedoc (to the north) and Roussillon (to the south) will join together in a common appellation under the name AOC Languedoc. We’ll be back with more details later.

The Burgundy company Boisset invests in Canada
040923-144-4402The well known Bourgogne négociant Boisset has joined forces with Canada's biggest wine company, Vincor, to invest in a new venture. It will be the biggest investment ever by a European wine producer in Niagara, under the name Le Clos Jordanne. They have plans to build a new winery designed by the world famous (and already winery drawing) architect Frank Ghery. At the moment they make wine from bought grapes in rented facilities. They make both red and white called Le Grand Clos made from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. We have, unfortunately, not tasted it. niagarathisweek.com

New DAC in Austria: Traisental
Austria has approved a new quality wine area, DAC, which stands for Districtus Austria Controllatus: Traisental. On 770 hectares they grow primarily Gruner Veltliner (63%), plus some Riesling and other grapes. Previously Weinviertel and Mittelburgenlad have been approved as DAC.

Harvest report from Portugal
2006 was very warm and dry in Portugal. The total harvest is expected to be 6.9 million hectolitres, which is down 4% compared to last year. The volumes were particularly low in Bairrada, Extremadura and Ribatejo, whereas in Alentejo the harvest was up 20% compared to last year. Overall a good quality but with some difficulties due to the hot weather. According to Vitisphere.com

Keep your eyes open for BKWine's tour to Portugal next year!

►► Go to Portugal with BKWine! More info.

New Zealand will get official wine districts
The New Zealand official control body for wine production, New Zealand Winegrowers, will start defining the boundaries for the countries wine regions. This follows a new law, the Geographical Indications (Wine & Spirits) Act, that requires that so be done. We hope that the discussions will not be too endless. RadioNZ

INAO changes shape
From the beginning of next year the INAO (Institut National des Appellations Contrôlées), the French control body for appellations, will change shape and responsibilities. To start with they change name to ”Institut National de l’Origine et de la Qualité”. However, the keep the short for INAO! Perhaps the most important change is that it’s responsibility will be enlarged to include, in addition to the AOC, a number of other “labels”: IGP (« Indication Géographique de Provenance »), « le label rouge » (LR), « la spécialité traditionnelle garantie » (STG) and « l’agriculture biologique » (AB). Vitisphere.com

Is wine bad for your teeth?
Yes and no, judging from my own experience and from my dentist. If I taste a lot of wines (especially whites) I certainly have the impression that it gets to my teeth. Brushing the teeth (or eating something sweet) after tasting a few hundreds wines is not nice thing. It can feel horrible. It’s the acid of course. I have also heard people strongly recommend that you do not brush your teeth after a serious wine tasting because the teeth defences (the enamel) has been weakened so you risk damaging the teeth. On the other hand my dentist says that it is an excellent way to keep your teeth clean. For a more in depth view you can read the two articles on Wines and Vines
Article 1
Article 2

A (relatively) new press and media relations service
DrinksMediaWire (DMW) is a relatively new service for companies in the drinks industry. It is a specialised press release distribution and communications service. They have many thousands of journalists and media contacts in their database. Can be interesting if you are looking for a way to get your message out: www.drinksmediawire.com

Have a news item you'd like to see here or have a news tip? Send me an email: winebrief@bkwine.com

 
Book Reviews
About Wine
By J. Patrick Henderson & Dellie Rex
Thomson Delmar Learning

We were particularly interested to receive this book for review since it is a course book for professional/students and many of our readers work in the wine or restaurant trade (or hope to be). As soon as you see it it certainly gives you the impression of being a serious text book: over 500 pages in large format, and not much “gloss”. The book is written by Americans for Americans but that doesn’t in anyway diminish its value as a general “wine course” study book (actually, it hardly shows at all). The coverage is very balanced, covering all the important wine regions across the world. It starts with a good overview of the basics: the vineyard, the winery and wine making technology and about tasting wine. The following chapters go through the wine regions of the world. But what makes this wine particularly valuable for the professional are the last few chapters on “the business of wine”: how better to sell wine in a restaurant, how to manage and develop a restaurant wine list, and even on how to train the colleagues. Certainly a book to recommend as a study book for professionals in restaurants and the wine trade, but also a very good book for the “amateur” who wants a bit more technology and structure than what you get in the glossy books.
Buy the book: Amazon.co.uk | Amazon.com| AdLibris | Bokus

The Wines of France – The essential guide for the savvy shoppers
By Jacqueline Friedrich
Ten Speed Press

This pocket sized book will come in very handy for those who want advice on what to buy. The whole book is a listing, region by region, of what the author thinks are the best and most interesting producers across France (including descriptive comments on the growers and their wines). Friedrich has spent years criss-crossing France to select the wine makers to be included. Any list of recommendations is of course up for debate, by definition since it is a personal choice. But looking at the recommendations for some of the districts we know particularly well we certainly wouldn’t argue with much of it, and even could find some new names that sound exciting. Good buy if you want a pocket size buying guide.
Buy the book Amazon.co.uk | Amazon.com | AdLibris | Bokus

The Healing Power of Champagne – History, Traditions, Biology and Diet
By Dr Tran Ky & Dr F Drouard
Savoir-Boire Ltd

If you ever needed an excuse to drink a glass of champagne you should read this book. It walks you through all good things champagne can do for you in case you suffer from appetite loss, obesity, migraine, depression, gynaecological troubles (yes), food allergies and much more. It even has a “technical appendix” on various good or bad substances. Champagne history, as the title hints, is featured throughout the book. It is a translation from a French original which certainly has contributed to the style of the writing.
Buy the bookAmazon.co.uk | Amazon.com | AdLibris | Bokus

The Wine Atlas of Canada
By Tony Aspler, photographs by Steven Elphick
Random House Canada

This is the first book we have read on Canada. And if you want an introduction to wine in Canada, this is an excellent choice. After a short introduction and history (and some very recent history!) the author takes you through each of the wine regions in Canada. In each region the main producers (or perhaps all?) are profiled, including tasting notes and practical information to help you plan a visit. The author is one of Canada’s best known wine writers. Excellent photography by Steven Elphick. If we could have one wish it would be for better maps… Indispensable if you are going to Canada.
Buy the book: Amazon.co.uk | Amazon.com

Click here for more book reviews on my site. You will also find links to on-line book shops on that page.

 
Link Tips
Some wine sites that you might enjoy visiting:
bullet“French have a shot at vodka” – In the last Brief we mentioned Blanche d’Armagnac, the new “white” spirit from the Armagnac district. CNN found a perhaps more catchy headline than we did. Read their article here: CNN.com
 
bullet"Mine is bigger than yours" (wine cellar, that is) a common American syndrome (and elsewhere!), except that it is perhaps more a question of having sophisticated design rather than appropriate wine storage facilities. Read the commentary on Vinfolio, The Wine Collector
 
bulletI might also add that Steve Bachman’s blog is unusually interesting for a wine blog. It’s not the usual “last night I drank this” stuff but quite a lot of interesting posts from someone who should certainly know about wine and the wine trade – being a wine merchant: The Wine Collector Blog The Wine Collector Blog
 
bulletAn interview with Jancis Robinson in Wines & Vines

Send us suggestions on sites to be included here: winebrief@bkwine.com

 
Agenda

- - France:

bullet

15-17/1-07, Narbonne: Millésime Bio, organic wine fair: www.millesime-bio.com

bullet

29-30/1 2007, Paris: Wine Evolution, wine business conference: www.skalliandrein.com

bullet

7-21/6 2007, Bordeaux: Vinexpo 2007, www.vinexpo.com

- - Sweden:

bullet

Send your event dates to us!

- - UK, Belgium, Switzerland, Spain, Denmark,...:

bullet

18-20/3, Düsseldorf: ProWine, wine and spirit fair, http://www.prowein.de

bullet

29-30/3, Mainz: Weinboerse 2007, trade fair http://www.vdp.de

Wine auction agendas:

bullet Sotheby's
bullet Christie's
bullet Bruun Rasmussen (Denmark)
bullet Thomas Høiland (Denmark)

Something we've missed? Send us suggestions for events to be added here: winebrief@bkwine.com 

 
Post Scriptum
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Copyright © Britt Karlsson, BKWine
www.bkwine.com
info@bkwine.com

 




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