Truffles,
olive oil and wine in the Rhone Valley, 14-18 February
The black Perigord truffle is one of the most highly acclaimed (or at least
most expensive) food ingredients. The price varies between €1500 and €4000
per kilo… To find truffles you need a truffle dog (sometimes, but rarely a
pig) and access to a truffle forest during the short season between the end
of November to the end of February. BKWine organises a “truffles hunting
trip” in the southern Rhône valley in February 2007. We will spend half a
day with a truffle hunter and his dog. After “the hunt” we will enjoy a
truffles lunch with the mushroom part of every dish from start to finish.
The whole trip is three days long and we will also visit an olive oil
producer and several interesting wine domaines.
More info on the site





Salon des Vins de Loire, 5-7
February
Next year’s edition of the Loire Valley wine fair – Salon des Vin de Loire –
will take place on February 5 to 7. It is a big trade fair where most of the
Loire Valley’s producers that count can be met. A Mecca for the Chenin Blanc
lover for example. This year they will even have a wine blog competition!
Submit your blog and you might win!
www.salondesvinsdeloire.com
Introduction to Wine Tasting
– new guest writer article
A new guest writer article has been posted in the Guest Writer section
on our site: “How to Appreciate a Bottle of French Wine” by Phil Leventhal.
Read the full article
on the Guest Writer page.
No more Tokay d’Alsace or
Tocai Friuliani
Next
year the agreement between Hungary and the EU will come into effect that
will reserve the name “Tokay” (in its various spellings) to wine coming from
the region of Tokay in Hungary. The use of Tokay d’Alsace or Tokay Pinot
Gris in Alsace will no longer be allowed, nor in any other regions in
Europe. They will simply have to call the wine Pinot Gris (which is often
already the case).
Vitisphere.com
Vin & Sprit announces sales and
profits up
V&S Vin & Sprit, the Swedish state-owned that is one of the world’s
largest vodka producers (with the Absolut brand), announced sales up with
13% to 7.6 billion SEK for the nine months to September. Operating profits
were up 18% to reach 1.6 bn SEK. The improved numbers are chiefly attributed
to good sales of Absolut vodka in the USA, Europe and in Asia. Perhaps the
Swedish state is happy with the increased alcohol consumption in this case,
in spite of its campaign for reduced consumption in Sweden through its
monopoly retail stores Systembolaget.
Small German harvest
The rain arrived just at harvest time in Germany. Many producers had to
do very strict sorting of the grapes at harvest, which will lead to a
harvest volume that is a bit smaller than normal. The quality is expected to
be quite good though (provided proper “tri” has been done). Before the rain
grapes had already achieved very good levels of maturation so a larger than
normal percentage will be Prädikatswein.
Vitisphere.com
Big harvest in Europe
The
total volume in Europe, though, seems to be relatively big. The total for
the four countries German, Italy, France and Spain is expected to reach 154
million hectolitres compared to 145 Mhl last year (and 164 Mhl in 2004, and
149 Mhl in 2003). The French harvest is estimated to reach 53 Mhl (compared
to 50 Mhl last year) and in Spain 43 Mhl (35 Mhl). Italy and Germany are
more or less flat compared to last year though (49.5Mhl vs. 50.5 Mhl, and 9
Mhl vs. 9.1 Mhl).
Vitisphere.com
Unoaked Chardonnay more and
more popular
It’s
not exactly big news for those of you who read about wine elsewhere:
Heavyweight barrel aged Chardonnay is loosing ground. Consumers are moving
towards lighter wines with more pronounced fruit, rather than oakiness and
butteryness. A recent study made by Wine Opinions have reached the same
conclusion: heavily oaked Chardonnay may have its future behind it.
WinesandVines.com
Absolut Prostitution? – Vin
& Sprit pulls ad campaign in Germany
The
state owned Swedish spirits giant V&S Vin & Sprit, with its immensely
successful Absolut brand, recently launched an ad campaign in Germany that
showed a sultry red lipstick impression with a silhouette of a bottle of
Absolut between the lips. The headline said “Absolut Herbertstrasse”.
Herbertstrasse is a street in Hamburg that, similar to Reeperbahn (which
is a parallel street) is known for its prostitution. Various press sources
have reported that the head office in Sweden decided to pull the campaign
when commentators in Sweden saw it as an indirect support for prostitution.
Particularly embarrassing since Sweden was very vocal in protesting against
prostitution in Germany during the football world cup. Commentators from Vin
& Sprit say that they have cancelled the campaign but that the German
organisation cannot understand what the fuzz is about. Read "Absolute
Hypocrisy" on
The Local.
More trouble for V&S Vin &
Sprit: fined for illegal advertising in Sweden
Even more advertising trouble hit the state owned vodka producer V&S Vin
& Sprit in Sweden when they were fined 500,000 SEK for having used
inappropriate imagery in ad campaigns in Sweden: two arms making a toast,
and a pizza box, according to the newsletter World of Wine News. It is not
only in England that the ad supervisors are diligent.
American wine overtakes
French wine in the UK
According
to the latest sales figures wine from the US have for the first time sold in
bigger volume than wine from France and now holds second position in the UK.
Consumers increased the consumption of US wines with 6.1% over the summer.
The increase was largely driven by good sales of rosé wines, in particular
Gallo apparently. However, the biggest exporter to the UK is actually
Australia.
Vitisphere.com (Photo: of the US Embassy in Paris)
Blanche d’Armagnac
Perhaps it is clever marketing. We have heard about Blanche d’Armagnac
since quite a while back and have written about it previously here. But you
can still not buy it. This new, “white” (clear and unoaked) spirit from
Armagnac will only be available in 2007. It will be interesting to taste it
one day. In the mean time, read this Q&A interview with one of the
producers’ representative and you will find out the details of what it is.
Read the full article on our site.
A wine university in the
Rhône Valley
L’Université
du Vin – it could not be more straight forward. The University of Wine in
Suze La Rousse is housed in a magnificent old medieval chateau. They have
several different university programs focusing on e.g. wine tasting (sensory
evaluation), marketing and sales, wine law, viticulture and oenology etc.
But they also organise wine courses for non-professionals: shorter wine
tasting courses over e.g. a week-end or just a day. More info
Universite-du-Vin.com (Photo:Suze-la-Rousse)
Uruguay wines continue to
progress
Uruguay
is radically different (and perhaps less known) than Argentina and Chile, in
terms of wine growing. If you find vast vineyards over immense prairies and
multi-million dollar investments in wineries in the two bigger countries, in
Uruguay wine production is much more “European” in that most producers are
relatively small family enterprises. Many have over the last few years had
quite some success on export markets: Bodega Pizzorno, Juanico, Pisano,
Bouza, Castillo Viejo, De Lucca, Filgueira, Stagnari, Plaza Vidiella etc.
Read an interesting article on Uruguay on
WineBusiness.com and take a look
in our Uruguay picture galleries.
Mechanical harvest better
than manual?
Many
have opinions on this matter. Often, people believe that manual harvest,
with “real” vendangeurs is better, not necessarily without knowing why. We
would rather say, like in most things in wine, that it depends. Manual
harvest has the benefit that the harvesters can do a selection already in
the vineyard but that requires skilled and trained workers, which is not
always the case. And mechanical harvest automatically makes a selection:
unripe grapes, or overripe grapes are loft on the vine by the harvester,
provided it is correctly tuned. But this is just one aspect. Here is someone
who argues that mechanical harvest is unquestionably better:
WineBusiness. com
Champagne increases
”rendement butoir” to 15,000 kg/ha
This
month’s least engaging headline? But this refers to a theme that is also
often talked about in very generalised, and sometimes mistaken, terms.
“Lower yields are of course much better”. Right? Not necessarily. In
Bordeaux yields are often around 45-50 hl/ha. Sometimes the grower say ”we
have very low yields, not more than 30 hl/ha” and you are expected to nod
admiringly. But lower is not always better, especially for white wines (or
think about hyper-concentrated, jammy “new world heavyweights” with 15+% of
alcohol). To come back to the headline: it means that in Champagne they now
allow a yield close to 100 hl/ha, certain years and under certain
conditions. (To be precise: “rendement de base” is 10,400 kg/ha and
“rendement butoir” has been increased from 13,000 kg/ha to 15,500 kg/ha. A
press is filled with 4000 kg of grapes and from that you get 2550 litres of
grape must. Do the maths.) Perhaps something to think about.
The first wine harvest at
Versailles
A
long time ago there were plenty of vineyards around Paris. Now there are
only a few (mostly symbolic) left. But some have actually been replanted
more recently. So, for example in Versailles, a few tens of kilometres
outside of Paris. Three years ago they planted 1850 vines and this year they
gave their first harvest. It will become 200 bottles of rosé wine and it
will be called Cuvée Marie-Antoinette. (Photo: One of Paris' vineyards - not
the one in Versailles though - with a view over the Eiffel Tower)
The German wine law updated
One of the changes is that VDP Erste Erlage will be an umbrella
description for the best German vineyards (”lage”). You can find details of
the changes at
Die Prädikatsweingüter
INAO on strike
INAO (Institut National des Appellations d’Origine) is the official
French control organisation of the AOCs (wine and other things). The staff
has gone on strike to underline the importance of a “credible policy to
safeguard and promote products with an official seal of quality” and to
protest against a proposal that would unite several different “quality
control” organisations (e.g. INAO) under one roof. Perhaps a good occasion
to entirely revise the system and give the consumer a bit more say?
Vitisphere.com
Parker employs British wine
taster
The wine guru Robert Parker has hired a relatively unknown British wine
critic to write for him. Neal Martin has been running an independent wine
commentary site called Wine-Journal.com that will now close. An added twist
is that there has for a long time been a certain antagonism between Robert
Parker and the British wine writing establishment. Perhaps this will lighten
things up? Read more details on
Wine-Journal.com
Pichon Lalande sold to
Roederer
It
has been in the making for quite some time and now it’s done. Chateau
Pichon-Lalande (one of the so-called “super seconds” in Pauillac) has been
sold to the Rouzaud family. The deal also includes Chateau Bernadotte
(previously Le Fournas Bernadotte) and Glenelly in South Africa. Rouzaud
will buy the majority shareholding from the current owner, May-Eliane de
Lencquesaing. The Rouzaud family owns Champagne Roederer and also Ch de Pez
and Ch Haut Beausejour in St Estephe, Champagne Deutz with Maison Delas in
the Rhone Valley, Ramos Pinto (port), Domaine Ott (Provence), Roederer
Estate and Scharffenberger in California. Read more on
Decanter.com and on
Vitisphere.com
”Chirac’s” wine cellar sold
for euro 1 million
Paris’ current mayor, Delanoe, perhaps does not drink much wine. In any
case he thought the stock was a bit too plentiful at the Mayor’s residence,
much of which had been bought by his predecessor, Jacques Chirac, France’s
current president. Much of the wine was recently sold at an auction that
totalled €970,000. Evidently there was a distinct political aura over the
bottles since many sold for far more than market prices. Some examples: 2
bottles 1986 Dom de la Romanée Conti: €10,000, 3 bottles Ch
Mouton-Rothschild 1989: €2600, 1 bottle Ch Petrus 1989: €4000. Hmm.
Decanter.com
Youngest ever Master of Wine
Ken Mackay, a mere 28 years old, is the youngest ever Master of Wine. He
recently gained the right to add the exclusive letters MW after his name.
His day work (assuming that nights are spent studying) is as buyer for
Willoughby’s, a wine company in Manchester. There are 250 MWs today.
Masters-of-Wine.org
This month’s must have (?)
wine gadget
A
palm computer and a subscription is all you need. Then you can register your
tasting notes electronically. In addition, cooperating wine merchants (or
other tasting organisers) can supply an electronic list of the wines to
taste to make the data entry even easier. After that you just tap in your
tasting notes with the palm computer stylus (or keyboard?) according to a
predefined format. When you get back home you just synchronise it with your
home (or office) computer. More info:
TastingBuddy.com
Interested in wine pictures?
Perhaps
you work as a picture editor or a wine or travel editor? Or perhaps you just
like photos of vineyards and wine regions? Then you should try our new “wine
picture inspiration”. Once a week we send you an inspirational email with
the latest additions to our
Wine Picture Blog. Register for the
Weekly Wine Picture Inspiration here.
Have a news
item you'd like to see here or have a news tip? Send me an email:
winebrief@bkwine.com